author: Brian MacNamara

subject: Hedgehog FAQ [1/5] - About the Hedgehog FAQ

text:
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part1
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs

Last-modified: 20 November 1996
Version: 2.19

HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 1 of 5) -- ABOUT THE HEDGEHOG FAQ
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara ([email])
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.

This document is copyright 1996 by Brian MacNamara.  See section [0.5]
for authorship information and redistribution rights.  In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.

The basic Hedgehog FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one.  A complete table of contents for
all five parts is given below.

Please note:  I am not a hedgehog expert, and I did not write, or verify,
all the information in this FAQ.  I have done my best to include only
accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness
of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that
it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way.  For advice
from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1],
or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian
who is familiar with hedgehogs.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THE HEDGEHOG FAQ FILES

Part I: ABOUT THE HEDGEHOG FAQ (this file)

0. *** About this FAQ ***

   <0.1> Notes on formatting
   <0.2> Where to get the Hedgehog FAQ
   <0.3> Goal of this FAQ
   <0.4> Credits and editor's notes
   <0.5> Information I would like to track down and add -- please help!
   <0.6> Copyright and redistribution information

1. *** Revision history of this file ***

Part II: FINDING MORE INFORMATION

2. *** Where to get more information ***

   <2.1> What books are there on pet hedgehogs?
   <2.2> What other hedgehog books are there?
   <2.3> Is there any other information available on-line?
   <2.4> How can I find a hedgehog breeder/contact in my area?
   <2.5> Where are hedgehogs illegal?
   <2.6> North American Hedgehog Association
   <2.7> International Hedgehog Fanciers Society
   <2.8> Other Hedgehog Organizations
   <2.9> Miscellaneous Hedgehog stuff and sources

Part III: INTRO TO HEDGEHOGS AS PETS

3. *** Introduction to hedgehogs ***

   <3.1> What are hedgehogs?  Should I get one?  What's good and bad
         about them as pets?
   <3.2> Are hedgehogs wild animals?
   <3.3> What's the average hedgehog lifespan?
   <3.4> I'm allergic to cats.  Will I be allergic to hedgehogs?
   <3.5> Do hedgehogs smell?
   <3.6> Do hedgehogs have tails?
   <3.7> Hedgehog monikers -- what do I call a hedgehog?
   <3.8> Her-hog or Him-hog?  What sex is Prickles?

4. *** Getting a pet hedgehog ***

   <4.1> Which types/colours are there?  Male or female?  What age?
   <4.2> How many should I get?
   <4.3> How can I introduce my hedgehog to my (dog/cat/bird/fish/
         rabbit/etc.) with the least trouble?

Part IV: HEDGEHOGS AS PETS

5. *** Things you'll need ***

   <5.1> What will I need to take care of my new hedgehog?
   <5.2> Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?
   <5.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?
   <5.4> What kind of litter should I use?
   <5.5> Hedgehog handling
   <5.6> Hedgehogs and wheels
   <5.7> Any suggestions on toys?

6. *** Basic hedgehog care and training ***

   <6.1> How can I best hedgehogproof my home?
   <6.2> What should I feed my hedgehog?
   <6.3> Feeding baby hedgehogs
   <6.4> What are good treats?
   <6.5> I'm having problems litter-training my hedgehog.  What should
         I be doing?
   <6.6> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping nails?
   <6.7> Biting and nipping

Part V: HEDGEHOG CARE AND UNDERSTANDING

7. *** Things hedgehogs say and do ***

   <7.1> Self-anointing.  What is it?  Why do hedgehogs do it?
   <7.2> My hedgehog snuffles and hides a lot.  Is that normal?
   <7.3> Is he just asleep or hibernating?
   <7.4> My hedgehog sneezes.  What should I do?
   <7.5> My hedgehog's gone ballistic?  Is this normal?
   <7.6> Basic hedgehog repertoire

8. *** Basic health care ***

   <8.1> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?
   <8.2> What health risks should I worry about?
   <8.3> Vaccinations, etc.
   <8.4> Mites (or mites, not?)

9. *** Problems to watch for and related information ***

   <9.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for?
   <9.2> My hedgehog's had funny-looking stools for a couple of days.
         What's wrong?
   <9.3> My hedgehog's not eating.  What should I do?
   <9.4> How did I get fleas in my home?  How can I get rid of
         them?
   <9.5> Various hedgehog health issues.

10. *** Wild hedgehogs ***

   <10.1> Caring for visiting hedgehogs
   <10.2> Hedgehog housing
   <10.3> Hedgehogizing your garden
   <10.4> Wild hedgehog health
   <10.5> Watching out for hibernating hedgehogs

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

0. *** About this FAQ ***

------------------------------

Subject: <0.1> Notes on formatting

The answers in these files are given in a ``digest format,'' which should
make it easier for you to scan through them for the information you want.
Each question begins with a line of hyphens, followed by its number and
the question itself, as given in the Table of Contents above.  In many
newsreaders, including rn, trn, and strn, you can jump from one
question to the next by hitting CONTROL-G.  You can also look for a
particular answer by searching for its number or for words from the
question.

Cross-references to other questions are in square brackets; for
example, [2.2] means that more information may be found in section
2.2.

------------------------------

Subject: <0.2> Where to get the Hedgehog FAQ

This FAQ is posted once a month (usually on or around the 20th) to the
rec.pets, rec.answers, and news.answers newsgroups.  It is also available by
anonymous FTP to either:

  ftp://ftp.pci.on.ca/pub/misc/hedgehog-faq/

(That is, ftp to ftp.pci.on.ca and cd into the directory
/pub/misc/hedgehog-faq).  The files themselves are called part1 through
part5.

or at the main news.answers repository:

  ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet-by-group/rec.pets/

(That is, ftp to rtfm.mit.edu and cd into the directory
pub/usenet-by-group/rec.pets).  The files themselves are called:

  Hedgehog_FAQ_[1_5]_-_About_the_Hedgehog_FAQ
  Hedgehog_FAQ_[2_5]_-_Finding_more_information
  Hedgehog_FAQ_[3_5]_-_Intro_to_Hedgehogs_as_pets
  Hedgehog_FAQ_[4_5]_-_Hedgehogs_as_pets
  Hedgehog_FAQ_[5_5]_-_Care_and_Understanding

Finally, it's also always available from my hedgehog web page at:

  http://www.pci.on.ca/~macnamar/hedgehogs/

If you cannot ftp and have no WWW access, send me ([email]) email
and I'll be glad to email you a copy.

------------------------------

Subject: <0.3> Goal of this FAQ

This FAQ is intended to cover many of the basic questions about hedgehogs.
Primarily, it deals with pet (African Pigmy) hedgehogs, in particular as
pets, but also contains information about wild hedgehogs (in particular,
European hedgehogs).  I hope to extend the coverage of the FAQ to address
both groups reasonably, and since there is considerable crossover in how the
information applies, much of what is said about one group is applicable to
the other, with a little common sense used in the interpretation.

The number of books and other sources for information is finally getting to
be reasonable, however, there is still relatively little information
available on caring for and understanding hedgehogs, at least compared to
most animals.  While this FAQ does not intend to be an in-depth
dissertation on hedgehogs, it is expected to provide some basic information.
I should also point out that I expect to keep the comments fairly light, so
as not to make the bulk of this FAQ qualify as a cure for insomnia.  If you
start to find it boring, tell me -- I probably fell asleep while typing that
section, and messed up on the what I was saying.

I do have to admit to one pang of guilt.  When I discovered there was so
very little information on looking after hedgehogs, I desperately wanted
a FAQ to refer to.  Since there wasn't one (Sorry Nathan, I didn't even
know about your efforts then) I figured the best way to get all the
information I wanted was to write the FAQ, and hope the comments it managed
to get would provide all the missing bits and pieces.  'Nuff said, let's
get on with hedgehogs.

------------------------------

Subject: <0.4> Credits and editor's notes

I can take credit for little of the contents of this FAQ, virtually
every bit of useful information deserves thanks to others.  I have tried
to give credit to the right person in the right place by indenting
specific comments by others and citing the authors.  My sole real
contribution has been to cobble together the many useful pieces of
information on hedgehogs that have appeared on the Internet into a
single source.

Of all the contributors, I would like to extend a special thanks to
Nathan Tenny whose unofficial hedgehog FAQ formed the basis for the
information below.  Nathan deserves the lion's share of the inspiration
on this FAQ, and should be considered the father of the hedgehog FAQ.
Thanks Nathan -- without you, I'd be filling most of this FAQ with
hedgehog anecdotes, instead of good information.

I would also like to thank Katherine Long for the encouragement to
actually try and pull this together, and Pamela Greene for allowing me
to use the ferret FAQ as a guide for the topics and sections below, and
many other useful tidbits of FAQ formatting.

I have a special thanks for Cathy A. Johnson-Delaney, DVM, who as one
of the few veterinarians who has owned (or is that owned by?) hedgehogs,
has offered to sort of try and keep me honest and provide some medical
info for the FAQ from time to time.  Thanks for the help Cathy, and for
making me feel a lot better about this pile of babbling.

Thanks to Peter Captijn, who almost single handedly kick-started me into
finally adding the information on European hedgehogs that I've been meaning
to for ages (and who actually contributed most of it) -- may your garden
be overrun by prickly little visitors.

And next to David Mantle for sending me an absolutely amazing wealth of
information on European hedgehogs that will take me a few months to wade
through and incorporate all the wonderful tidbits into the FAQ.

Sort of a quick separate thanks to all the hedgehog-happy readers of the
rec.pets newsgroup, and the hedgehog listserver, who have unknowingly added
volumes to this FAQ, and especially to Patty-Anne Lea for boosting my ego
above and beyond measure and letting me know for sure that this creation is
appreciated.

In a general sense, I would like to thank all the people at the N.A.H.A.
for their help and encouragement.

Finally, last and far, far from least, many thanks to the contributors
who all deserve a round of applause for what they have contributed:
Ron Adrezin; Andrew Albinger; Debbie Allen; Brenda Basinger; Matt and Renee
Butcher; Tom Buzzwo; Christi Cantrell & George Lewis; Travis Carter;
Chingur/Lani Richey; Wayne W. Clendenin; Kathleen Close; Bill Corner; Peyton
M. Creadick; Doug Dorer and Mary Anne; Dave Ehrnstein; Elizabeth Galante;
Robyn Gorton; Tex Green; Lynn Hallquist; Penny Jackson; Laura Jefferson;
Jerry; Janet Jones; Anders Kemi and Siw Bjorkgren; Marcia Kautz; LeAnne and
Adrian; John Lester; Peter Mack; Melissa Maloney; Donald Martin; Mike McGary;
Michael (knuckles); Elizabeth Jane Monroe; Willard B. ``Skip'' Nelson, DVM;
Mary Novak; John Ofner; Tetsuro Oka, DVM; Ligia Ortega; PamRusso, Christine
Porter; Vanessa Purvis; Todd Reeves; Seabury Salmon; Jon Santarelli; Richard
Saunders; Sigrun Seetrevik; Jon Simmons; Shelley Small; Alexis Sneller; Wendi
Smit; Bryan H. Smith; Elyse Spaite; Ken Steigenberger; Chuck Stoup; Barry
Turner; Tirya; Steve Turpin; Jesse and Kris Welsh; Anja van der Werf; Tom
Weston; Linda Wheatley; Johnny M. Williams; Woobie; Kathy and Donald Zepp;
and Znofyl; and last but not least, my resident editors-in-quills Velcro,
Hocus & Pocus, and the late, dear Sprocket.

One last thank you that deserves separate note to my wife Betty Gunn for
happily sharing and encouraging my hedgehog addiction, presenting me with
Velcro, and for repeatedly translating this whole thing into english, from
what ends up being little more than a mis-mash of spelling mistakes and
punctuation that bears no resemblance to any language from this planet.

If there is anyone I have missed, you have my apologies, and please let me
know.  I hope that the list above will continue to grow over the coming
months (years?).

------------------------------

Subject: <0.5> Information I would like to track down and add -- please help!

This is your chance to help add things to the FAQ.  Some of the specific
information I'm trying to track down is listed below, but please don't limit
yourselves to this -- I'm very open minded about taking any kind of
information I can get ahold of.
all.

  Further information on any hedgehog related organizations and charities.

  Further information on places where hedgehogs are not legal as pets.

  More information on hedgehogs as pets in other parts of the world.

  Any questions you think the FAQ should answer or discuss -- even if
  (especially if?) you don't know the answer.

  Additional information on varieties of hedgehogs as pets.

  Information about hedgehog food.  What brands/types are available and
  where.

  Additional information useful to people dealing with wild hedgehogs,
  especially those in Europe.

Some of the things I hope to add over the upcoming releases are:

  A section on breeding, and hoglet care.

------------------------------

Subject: <0.6> Copyright and redistribution information

This compilation, is copyright 1996 by Brian MacNamara.
It may be freely distributed by electronic, paper, or other means,
provided that it is distributed in its entirety, including this notice,
and that no fee is charged apart from the actual costs of distribution.
(For-profit service providers such as CompuServe and America Online
are granted permission to distribute the files provided that no
additional fee beyond standard connection-time charges is levied.)

Those portions of this file written by others remain the property of
their respective authors.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

1. *** Revision history of this file ***

------------------------------

Subject: Revision history

The most accurate description of the version of this FAQ is the date
at the top.  For really minor changes, I won't necessarily change the
version number, but I'll always change the date.

Version 2.19 - 20 November 96

  Few changes this month due to the possible impending arrival of hoglets.
  My computer and hedgehogs live in the same room (it helps keep the bugs
  out when I'm programming) and I don't want to disturb Hocus too much.

  Revised sections [0.4] (more helpers as always), [1.] (always), [2.7]
  (added new areacode for IHFS phone number), [2.8] (added info on CHPS),
  [6.2] (added Brisky Pet hhog food info).

Version 2.18 - 20 October 96

  Many minor changes were made, fixing spelling and minor typos
  thorughout the FAQ, courtesy of my patient editor, Betty Gunn.
  Few of these are worth noting seperately (i.e. I'm too embarassed
  by many to even admit they were there).  I also had to change all
  the double quotes to (``) and ('') to allow things to convert to
  html properly.

  Revised sections [0.3] (minor changes to goal), [0.4] (more helpers as
  always), [1.] (always), [2.2] (added connection between Les Stocker and
  St. Tiggywinkles), [2.3] (added how to unsubscribe (why would you?!?!) from
  mailing lists, and info on AOL chat session), [2.5] (added Maine oddity),
  [5.5] (noted that there are times when using gloves is reasonable), [3.1]
  (Removed section on biting to a seperate new section [6.7]), [3.3] (added
  info on lifespan), [3.5] (added blurb on Pretty Pets causing smelly
  droppings), [3.8] (fixed up sexing section), [4.1] (raspberry hedgehogs),
  [4.2] (fixed typo about same sex (not species) groups), [5.3] (added notes
  on mites and bedding, and notes on heat bulbs), [5.6] (removed potentially
  out of date pricing for B.I. wheels), [5.7] (numerous small changes, and
  added suggestion of container of foam chips as good toy), [6.2] (added
  comments on Pretty Pets and Vitakraft hhog foods and brief note on IAMS
  lite, etc. likely not solving problem), [6.4] (added pine nuts, and
  GrubCo), [6.6] (added notes on hog-washing), [9.3] (added warning about
  raw meat when trying to get a hedgehog eating again), [10.1] (changed
  note on playing to include convalescing wild hedgehogs).

  Changed section [5.6] to be ``Hedgehogs and wheels'' and moved section
  ``Any suggestions for toys'' to be section [5.7].

  Added new section [6.7] (biting).

Version 2.17 - 20 September 96

  For this version I made many subtle changes in formatting to allow me to
  develop a program to automatically convert the FAQ into HTML for better
  access via the WWW.  I will not list all the details here as they are
  likely to be of no real interest to general readers of the FAQ.

  Revised sections [0.4] (ever more helpers), [1.] (changes to permit links
  in HTML version), [2.1] (added very bad review of Hedgehogs Today book,
  and updated availablility of Nigel Reeve book), [2.3] (changed around
  on-line access section), [2.5] (added hedgehogs in Japan), [2.8] (changed
  name of SWRRC to WildAid), [2.9] (added info on new Spike catalog), [5.2]
  (hedgehog sleeping bags), [5.4] (use of low dust litter), [5.6] (notes on
  toilet paper tubes as toys, sandboxes, and grass plots), [6.2] (tried to
  clear up confusion on amount of fat versus type and fatty liver disease),
  [6.6] (some info on tattered ears and more ideas on stopping bleeding),
  [8.4] (more on mites).

Version 2.16 - 20 August 96

  Revised sections [0.4] (more helpers), [1.] (as always), [2.4] (added IHFS
  as breeder source), [2.5] (minor semantic changes), [2.6] (added notes
  on NAHA no longer responding to queries, etc.), [2.8] (added Swedish
  contact for injured hedgehogs), [2.9] (update on new Spike catalog and
  added note on BHPS Hedgehogalog), [6.2] (added minor correction about
  rodents, and on turtle-salmonella comparison, added info on other hhog
  food source, and more on fatty liver disease), [8.4] (readded section
  of do-it-yourself treatment which seems to have vanished somehow --
  mites in the system...?), [10.3] (added tips for attracting and
  safeguarding hedgehogs).

Version 2.15 - 20 July 96

  Revised sections [0.4] (more helpers), [1.] (as always), [2.3] (NEW hhog
  mailing list), [2.8] (phone number for St. Tiggy's), [2.9] (new phone #,
  and email add for Spike and Friends), [6.2] (added mink food, more info
  on IAMS dangers, and warnings against feeding raw meat), [8.4] (more on
  mites, and do-it-yourself treatments), Added new section [9.5] (other
  heath topics), [10.1] (info on orphaned wild babies).

Version 2.14 - 20 June 96

  Revised sections [0.4] (more helpers), [1.] (as usual), [2.5] (added note
  about state permits, e.g. Wyoming), [2.8] (added info on Hedgehogs
  Northwest), [2.9] (added Country Artists), [5.2] (added caution about
  cold and pneumonia), [5.6] (added caution about sandpaper on wheels),
  [6.2] (added WARNING NOT TO FEED IAMS CAT OR KITTEN FOOD, and added
  Vitakraft address),

  Added new section [3.8] (sexing hedgehogs).

Version 2.13 - 21 May 96

  Revised sections [0.2] (added web addr for faq), [0.4] (ever more helpers),
  [1.] (as always), [2.3] (minor changes), [2.5] (added European zones),
  [2.6] (updated N.A.H.A. address and pricing), [2.8] (added info on VEZ),
  [3.1] (minor changes), [3.2] (minor changes), [4.1] (minor changes),
  [5.2] (added notes on minimum cage sizes and bedding materials), [5.3]
  (more on bedding), [6.0] (hhog-resisting), [6.2] (added note on new
  formula Pretty Bird food), [6.3] (warning to use soya based formula),
  [6.4] (enhancing treats), [8.1] (more on squealing), [10.1] (minor
  changes).

  Note: I wanted to do many more changes this month.  If you sent me some
  info and I didn't get it in, I will try to next month.  My apologies
  to all as I simply ran out of time.

Version 2.12 - 21 Apr 96

  Added new section [2.7] (International Hedgehog Fanciers Society).

  Renumbered sections [2.7] through [2.8] to be [2.8] through [2.9].
  Revised sections [0.4] (more helpers), [1.] (as always), [2.1] (added note
  about Hedgehogs Today book), [2.3] (removed hhog mailing list), [2.5]
  (updated hhog-free zones), [2.8] (removed Hedgehog Welfare phone no.),
  [3.1] (added advice in biting), [3.2] (minor revisions), [3.4] (added
  info on dusty bedding), [4.1] minor updates, [4.1] (added more on
  colours), [4.2] (added notes on groups), [4.3] (minor changes), [5.3]
  (added info on CareFRESH bedding) [7.3] (added info on chilled hhogs),
  [7.6] (hhog purrs), [8.1] (minor changes), [8.2] (added brief note on
  mites), [8.4] (added notes on mite treatment), [9.1] (note on turmours),
  [9.3] (added notes on how to get hhog to eat), [10.5] (hibernating
  times, etc.).

Version 2.11 - 20 Mar 96

  Revised sections [0.4] (more helpers), [1.] (as always), [2.1] (added teaser
  on possible new hedgehog book), [2.5] (update on Alberta), [2.7] (added
  details on SWRRC, and added Fan Club in Norway), [9.2] (added notes on
  kidney problems)

Version 2.10 - 20 Feb 96

  General overall editing cleanup (spelling mistakes, minor grammar errors,
  various typos, etc.).  I'm not going to bother listing sections for
  this -- the changes are not to the content.

  Revised sections [1.], (again), [2.3] (added more info on listserver),
  [4.1] (added more colours)

Version 2.9 - 20 Jan 96

  Renumbered sections [6.3] through [6.5] to be [6.4] through [6.6].

  Added new section [6.3] (feeding baby hedgehogs).

  Revised sections [0.4] (always more helpers), [1.] (as always), [2.5]
  (updated list of hedgehog free zones), [3.7] (added monikers), [5.2]
  (minor changes), [5.3] (added some notes on aspen), [5.5] (minor
  changes), [6.2] (Vitacraft hhog food), [8.4] (more on mites).

Version 2.8 - 21 Dec 95

  Revised sections [0.4] (even more helpers), [1.] (as always), [2.3]
  (corrected URLs and added info on hhog mailing list), [2.7] (added info
  on the SWRRC).

Version 2.7 - 20 Nov 95

  Revised sections [0.4] (more helpers), [1.] (as always), [2.7] (added info
  on Hhog Fanciers Society), [3.5] (added notes on smell), [4.2]
  (hedgehog a la orange), [5.2] (added more notes on heaters), [5.6]
  (another wheel idea), [7.3] (more thoughts on warm hhogs), [7.6]
  (hedgehog howling).

Version 2.6 - 20 Oct 95

  Revised sections [1.] (again), [2.1] (added notes on books by Nigel Reeve
  and Joan Baydala), [2.8] (added info on Exclusively Hedgehogs), [3.1]
  (added bit on blowing in face of biting hedgehogs), [5.5] (added
  information getting aquainted with your hedgehog), [5.6] (added more
  on B.I.), [10.4] added note about rabies.

Version 2.5 - 20 Sep 95

  Revised sections [0.2] (made email offer more willing), [0.4] (the list of
  helpers grows again), [0.5] (asked for more Euro-hhog info), [1.]
  (always) [2.2] (more books), [2.7] (added a bit on BHPS), [2.8] (added
  FAX number for ANCR, and hhog boxes), [4.2] (added note on M/F pairs),
  [5.2] (added warning about socks), [5.3] (added info base material),
  [5.5] (added notes on handle often), [5.6] (updated BI's address, and
  added new DIY wheel ideas), [7.2] (added comments on familiarization).

  Inserted section [8.4] on mites, and sections [10.1] through [10.5] on
  Euro-hhogs.

Version 2.4 - 20 Aug 95

  Revised sections [0.2] (added info on FTPing from the news.answers
  repository), [0.3] (minor cleanups), [0.4] (added more great people to
  the list), [0.5] (minor cleanups), [1.] (as always), [2.1] (added info
  on Pat Storer's ``Hedgehogs as Pets'' book, and Exotic Market Review),
  [2.3], [2.4] (minor cleanups), [2.5] (added info on Canadian legality,
  and added comments on Utah and Europe), [2.6] (minor cleanups), [2.6]
  (added phone number for BHPS), [2.8] (minor cleanup), [3.1] (minor
  updates), [3.7] (added info on hedgehog group names -- right!), [4.1]
  (minor additions on colour and personality), [4.2] (minor additions),
  [4.3], [5.1], [5.2] (minor updates), [5.6] (added Chuck Stoup's design
  ideas and ANCR as source for wheels), [6.2] (added bit on possible hhog
  food problems), [6.4] (added notes a la Sprocket), [6.5] (septic
  pencil), [7.3] (added notes on aestivation), [7.5] (minor updates),
  [7.6] (added more on sounds), [8.1] (minor additions), [9.2] (fixed
  typo).

Version 2.3 - 04 Jul 95

  Modified headers -- it's been approved - yippie!

  Revised sections [0.2] (added info on posting to posting to news.answers and
  rec.answers, [1.] (again), [2.3] (added Jesse Ephraim's web page URL),
  [2.5] (revised hhog free zones and added that Maryland and Colorado are
  now legit), [2.6] (revised some N.A.H.A. information).

Version 2.2 - 19 Jun 95

  Revised sections [1.] (always).

  Inserted section [2.8] (needed someplace to put things without a place).

Version 2.1 - 21 May 95

  Revised sections [0.4] (more people to thank), [0.5] (removed request for
  info in St. Tiggywinkles), [1.] (I added this, didn't I?), [2.7] (added
  address of St. Tiggywinkles), [6.2] (added thoughts on nutrition from
  Dr. Nelson), [6.3] (add comments about raisins).

Version 2.0 - 17 Apr 95

  Renumbered sections 1 and 2 reversing them to allow for splitup, and
  because it made more sense to me.

  Split FAQ into multiple pieces to try and avoid newsreader size limitations.

  Revised sections [0.2] (added usual posting date and removed discussion of
  breaking up FAQ, and added info on directory/filename changes), [0.4]
  (more great people to add to the list, etc.), [0.5] (new requests), [1.]
  (added change info), [2.1] (added info on book by Matthew Vriends),
  [2.4] (rearranged and added suggestion of newspaper classified adds),
  [2.5] (extensively reorganized and partially updated list of
  hedgehog-free zones), [2.6] (updated info on N.A.H.A. registration of
  non-U.S. breeders, and added more info), [3.1] (added info on tasting
  and biting), [4.1] (moderated bit on biting), [5.3] (added more ideas
  for homes), [5.3] (fixed typos -- whoops), [6.2] (added info on
  Hedgehog food), [6.3] (minor changes), [7.2] (minor changes), [7.5]
  (corrected typos), [8.3] (minor changes), [9.2] (added note on affect
  of hedgehog food), [9.3] (corrected typo).

Version 1.3 - 20 Mar 95

  Revised sections [0.2] (added warning about breaking up FAQ next time
  around) [0.4] (thanks to more helpful people), [0.5] (more questions,
  always more questions), [1.1], [1.2] (a new book, various changes and
  additions), [1.3], [1.5] (updated list of hedgehog free zones), [1.6]
  (corrected NAHA address, etc), [2.0], [4.1] (added information on
  temperment of snowflakes, and maturity for breeding), [4.2], [4.3],
  [5.4], [5.5], [5.6], [6.2], [6.3], and [8.2] (warning about overweight
  hedgehogs).

  Inserted section [1.7], and [8.3].

Version 1.2 - 20 Feb 95 -- Not posted

  Revised sections [1.6] (corrected NAHA phone number)

Version 1.1 - 11 Feb 95

  Revised sections [0.4], [1.1], [1.2], [1.4], [1.5], [2.0], [5.6], [6.2],
  [6.3], [7.1], and [8.2].

  Inserted sections [0.5], [1.6], [3.7], [7.5], [7.6], and [9.3].

  Renumbered sections [0.5] to [0.6], and [9.3] to [9.4].

  Renumbered, and corrected cross-references.

Version 1.0 - 10 Jan 95

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


subject: Hedgehog FAQ [5/5] - Care and Understanding

text:
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part5
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs

Last-modified: 20 Novenber 1996
Version: 2.19

HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 5 of 5) -- HEDGEHOG HEALTH CARE AND UNDERSTANDING
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara ([email])
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.

This document is copyright 1996 by Brian MacNamara.  See section [0.5]
for authorship information and redistribution rights.  In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.

The basic Hedgehog FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one.  A complete table of contents for
all five parts is given in part I.

Please note:  I am not a hedgehog expert, and I did not write, or verify,
all the information in this FAQ.  I have done my best to include only
accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness of
what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that it
will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way.  For advice from
an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1], or,
especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who
is familiar with hedgehogs.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

7. *** Things hedgehogs say and do ***

   <7.1> Self-anointing.  What is it?  Why do hedgehogs do it?
   <7.2> My hedgehog snuffles and hides a lot.  Is that normal?
   <7.3> Is he just asleep or hibernating?
   <7.4> My hedgehog sneezes.  What should I do?
   <7.5> My hedgehog's gone ballistic?  Is this normal?
   <7.6> Basic hedgehog repertoire

8. *** Basic health care ***

   <8.1> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?
   <8.2> What health risks should I worry about?
   <8.3> Vaccinations, etc.
   <8.4> Mites (or mites, not?)

9. *** Problems to watch for and related information ***

   <9.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for?
   <9.2> My hedgehog's had funny-looking stools for a couple of days.
         What's wrong?
   <9.3> My hedgehog's not eating.  What should I do?
   <9.4> How did I get fleas in my home?  How can I get rid of
         them?

10. *** Wild hedgehogs ***

   <10.1> Caring for visiting hedgehogs
   <10.2> Hedgehog housing
   <10.3> Hedgehogizing your garden
   <10.4> Wild hedgehog health
   <10.5> Watching out for hibernating hedgehogs

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

7. *** Things hedgehogs say and do ***

------------------------------

Subject: <7.1> Self-anointing.  What is it?  Why do hedgehogs do it?

I have mentioned self-anointing (or self-lathering, as it is sometime called,
in at least the U.K.) repeatedly throughout the FAQ, so now it is time to
explore the hedgehog's one truly unique trait.  Nathan Tenny provided
a good description of this interesting and perplexing hedgehog habit:

    If you smell *really* interesting, your hedgehog will lick
    or nibble on you, back off, and suddenly contort itself, start
    foaming at the mouth, and lick the foam onto its spines.  This
    ``self-anointing'' has to be seen to be believed, but it's perfectly
    normal.  It's not known for sure why they do it, but it probably
    has something to do with self-defence; hedgehogs are *highly*
    resistant to most toxins, and when they encounter something that
    might be toxic, they get it in their mouths, foam, and cover
    themselves with the toxic mixture.  The result is a toxic hedgehog,
    which is really something to reckon with.  (Incidentally, the toxin
    resistance of hedgehogs is truly prodigious and has been the subject
    of some research; they are one of the few animals that can safely eat
    giant toads (_Bufo marinus_), for instance.)

    One more last note:  We don't know why this happens, but even without
    the benefit of self-anointing, their spines seem to have a mild
    toxic/irritant effect; when you prick yourself on one, even slightly,
    it hurts more than it should, and for a little bit longer.  No big deal,
    just sort of strange.

One of the most effective ways to provoke a session of self-anointing is
to pick up your hedgehog when you have sweaty hands, or after having used
hand lotion, or a different type of soap.

In any case, once you have witnessed this entertaining act, and you have
calmed down enough to understand your little friend doesn't have rabies
after all, you will likely be convinced that hedgehogs do not have backbones.
It's really hard to believe something as round as a hedgehog can twist itself
into that contorted a position.  It's also a bit disconcerting to learn just
how long that tongue is!

------------------------------

Subject: <7.2> My hedgehog snuffles and hides a lot.  Is that normal?

Yep.  If he doesn't, are you sure you have a hedgehog?  The snuffling or
snorting (or snurfling, as my wife calls it), while having the head tucked
down, is part of the defense mechanism that has kept hedgehogs around for a
very long time.  It basically leaves them with their quills protecting every
bit of visible surface, but still allows the hedgehog to move.  The snuffling
and snorting is usually accompanied by sudden lurches in the direction the
hedgehog believes its potential enemy is in, to try and give it a good
warning prickle.

The more your hedgehog comes to know you, the less you will get the
sharp shoulder treatment.  One exception to this is if your hedgehog is
sleepy.  A sleepy hedgehog can be very insistent about not being disturbed
[3.1].

Getting your hedgehog to become familiar with you takes a lot of patience,
but it is worth it.  If your hedgehog tends to be somewhat shy or unfriendly
towards you, try spending more time holding him -- chances are he just
doesn't associate your smell with being a friend, yet.

------------------------------

Subject: <7.3> Is he just asleep or hibernating?

A quick note here:  this section applies to African Pigmy hedgehogs, rather
than European hedgehogs (which do hibernate, primarily between January and
March).

A common concern is whether or not pet hedgehogs hibernate -- especially
as winter starts to arrive.  The answer is generally no.  However, if the
temperature where they are kept drops too low (below about 20 degrees C or
68 degrees F), they can start preparing for hibernation and will certainly
go into hibernation for brief periods, if the temperature drops much below
this -- at least until the temperature returns to a comfortable level.  If
your hedgehog seems to be sleeping too soundly, and you are worried, any
kind of movement to his or her bed will usually earn you at least a brief
spate of unhappy snuffling.  If this happens, then you can probably assume
you've just disturbed a sleepy hedgehog.  If this and nudging at him don't
have any effect, and he's been in quite a cool (for a hedgehog) temperature,
he may have slipped into the beginnings of hibernation, and should be
gently (and slowly) warmed up, which should let him awaken.

Hedgehogs will also tend to slow down and get somewhat grumpy if they are
kept at a temperature that's too cool for their liking.  If you're finding
that your previously energetic hedgehog is acting a bit slow and grumpy,
and cool weather has started to arrive, then you may want to take steps
to warm up your hedgehog [5.2].

Another sign that a hedgehog that is too cool is its going off its food.  If
your hedgehog isn't eating, and is walking a bit funny, it may be because he
is a bit cool.

    The first thing to do is to check to see if the animal is warm enough.
    Feel its legs and belly.  If these feel chilled the animal needs to be
    immediately warmed up.  A chilled hedgehog will walk as if it is drunk.
    A variety of methods can be used to warm them.  The one that I use is
    to put the animal in the cut off sleeve of a sweatshirt.  I then put
    it in a box (I actually have an 8 litre cooler that I use) with a jar
    of hot water.  Close the lid of the box (or put the lid on loosely to
    allow for air in the cooler).  They usually warm up in about an hour
    or so.  When I put the animal back in its own cage, I make sure I give
    it a sleeve to keep warm in.  Some animals are more prone to chills
    than others.
    -- Linda Wheatley

In general, the likelihood of hibernation happening is quite low, so if
your hedgehog isn't making its home in the refrigerator, and you don't
like living in subarctic conditions indoors, you probably shouldn't worry.
That having been said, I have heard of several instances of it happening
(briefly, and all fully recovered when warmed up), so some caution is
worthwhile.

Probably more worrisome is the chance of pet hedgehogs going into
aestivation.  This is similar to hibernation, but is done when things get
too warm.  In their natural habitat, this is to let the hedgehog wait things
out until cooler and/or damper weather returns.  African Pigmy hedgehogs are
more likely to slip into this state, especially in light of heatwaves in
recent years in North America, than they are to wind up hibernating.  The
problems and side effects of aestivation are largely the same as for
hibernation.

You should not let a pet hedgehog hibernate, or aestivate.  As pets, hedgehogs
do not stock up on food, nor put on the necessary extra body fat needed to get
through hibernation.  A pet that is allowed to hibernate extensively will
likely wake up very sick and very weak -- if at all.

------------------------------

Subject: <7.4> My hedgehog sneezes.  What should I do?

Occasional sneezes are normal.  When you consider the amount of exploring
that hedgehogs like to do, in combination with just how busy that little
nose is, it's pretty easy to understand that the result will be an
occasional sneeze.

Extended sneezing fits, or nasal discharge, however, indicates a problem,
and a trip to the vet is in order.

------------------------------

Subject: <7.5> My hedgehog's gone ballistic?  Is this normal?

You've just introduced your hedgehog to a nice new big pen and all of a
sudden it's like he's going crazy, running madly around the cage, trying
to get out of every little nook and cranny, and generally driving you up
the wall.  Yes, this is quite normal (for the hedgehog -- you being up the
wall, I can't comment on).

Hedgehogs appear to do this when they get into a new environment, and will
usually settle down in a while, once they decide that (a) they can't
actually get out (which given the slightest chance, they will), and (b) they
have decided this is now home.  Some hedgehogs will literally climb the walls
just to check whether you remembered a roof or not.  Pocus, my youngest
female, is a fine example of this.  She will climb anything, anywhere,
anytime, to any height.

Some things you can do to reduce the chaos and chances of reoccurrence are
to provide a familiar nest or burrow for your little beast, and to install
a wheel for exercise [5.6] (all that energy is pretty normal in hedgehogs
-- scary, huh?).  Lots of active play times can help too.

One other answer here is to simply enjoy the fact that you have a healthy,
energetic hedgehog.

------------------------------

Subject: <7.6> Basic hedgehog repertoire

As far as sounds go, officially, the only sounds that hedgehogs are
supposed to make is their snuffling and snorting when they are feeling
threatened, and some squeaking as babies.  That said, I can tell you
hedgehogs have an amazing number of little sounds in their repertoire.  I
have it on good advice and from personal experience that there are a number
of other hedgehog vocalizations that occur in both babies and adults.

One time that hedgehogs completely abandon their silent ways is when it
comes to mating.  This is particularly true of males who will often end
up sounding like a video game gone wild with an amazing series of squeaks
and chirps as they vie for the favours of the lady.

In addition, here are some comments from other people on hedgehog sounds:

    At least two of my younger ones have kept this ability [nursing
    type squeaks] and can shriek quite loudly when startled or angry.
    This will wake the deepest sleeper.
    -- Mike McGary

    All the hedgehogs I've known have made a quiet twittering noise when
    they were relaxed and exploring.
    -- Nathan Tenny

I'd like to thank Mike McGary, with some commentary from Nathan Tenny and
Znofyl, for sharing thoughts on the virtuoso singing of hedgehogs here to
give people an idea of some of the extremes that can be reached.  I would
also like to note that the loudest thing that has ever come out of Velcro,
other than his nervous snufflings, is a contented slurp when he's buried
his nose in a container of cream.

    The books all say that hedgehogs don't make much noise.  They do squeak
    for their mother when they are still nursing and make snorting and
    snuffling noises as adults....one account says that they can snore quite
    loudly.

    My young male (Adam) has been known to scream when frightened.  This
    isn't a small squeak, but a full-fledged rabbit-caught-in-a-trap
    scream.  But the real oddity has started recently.  We have one of
    those beep-beep-beep-beep alarm clocks.  We normally set it for
    6:00 am, but keep pushing the snooze button every time it goes off
    (sometimes for a long time).  After the alarm goes off, Adam starts
    to make this eeeeh-eeeeeh-eeeeeeh sound like he is imitating the
    alarm clock.  He does it every morning and you can get up and
    watch him....he doesn't move....he just sings.
    -- Mike McGary

The following from Znofyl and Nathan are about as good an answer to this
mystery as we're likely to get without growing quills ourselves:

    I wonder whether the hedgie isn't responding to this alarm noise
    thinking it is another male. My males are VERY noisy when breeding.
    -- Znofyl

    This sounds really likely to me.  My male's mating noise is a sort of
    breathy ``squeeEEEEEk-squeeEEEEEk''---is that the general tenor of
    Adam's morning ditty?
    -- Nathan Tenny


subject: Hedgehog FAQ [4/5] - Hedgehogs as pets

text:
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part4
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs

Last-modified: 20 November 1996
Version: 2.19

HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 4 of 5) -- HEDGEHOGS AS PETS
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara ([email])
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.

This document is copyright 1996 by Brian MacNamara.  See section [0.5]
for authorship information and redistribution rights.  In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.

The basic Hedgehog FAQ has five parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one.  A complete table of contents for
all five parts is given in part I.

Please note:  I am not a hedgehog expert, and I did not write, or verify,
all the information in this FAQ.  I have done my best to include only
accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness of
what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that it
will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way.  For advice from
an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1], or,
especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian who
is familiar with hedgehogs.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

5. *** Things you'll need ***

   <5.1> What will I need to take care of my new hedgehog?
   <5.2> Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?
   <5.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?
   <5.4> What kind of litter should I use?
   <5.5> Hedgehog handling
   <5.6> Hedgehogs and wheels
   <5.7> Any suggestions on toys?

6. *** Basic hedgehog care and training ***

   <6.1> How can I best hedgehogproof my home?
   <6.2> What should I feed my hedgehog?
   <6.3> Feeding baby hedgehogs
   <6.4> What are good treats?
   <6.5> I'm having problems litter-training my hedgehog.  What should
         I be doing?
   <6.6> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping nails?
   <6.7> Biting and nipping

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

5. *** Things you'll need ***

------------------------------

Subject: <5.1> What will I need to take care of my new hedgehog?

There are only a few things that are essential to keep a pet hedgehog.
Basically a warm place to live (either a large cage/pen/aquarium, or a
room -- if you want to let your hedgehog run free), a food dish (preferably
one that is not easy to tip over), a water bottle, such as for Guinea pigs,
(water dishes can tend to become soiled and baby hedgehogs can easily
drown in them, but adults often like them), and last but not least,
something big enough for your hedgehog to hide in as a den.

It is also a good idea to have a shallow litter box or pan (although not
all hedgehogs seem inclined to use them), and some type of bedding (pine
or aspen shavings, clean straw, etc., but NOT cedar [5.3]).

An exercise wheel [5.6] (big enough for a hedgehog) is also recommended --
especially for hedgehogs that don't have the run of the house.  Hedgehogs
tend to be surprisingly energetic, and need the chance to use up some of
this energy.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.2> Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?

This is largely a matter of choice, yours and theirs.  Some hedgehog owners
wouldn't dream of caging their prickly little friends, while many breeders
use large cat carriers to keep their hoards in (one hedgehog, one carrier).

I personally use large wire cages that were intended for medium to large
dogs as homes for my hedgehogs.  These cages measure about 2' wide x 3' deep
x 2.5' high (frankly I wouldn't put a dog bigger than a Chihuahua in
something this size, but the labels claim they were designed for collies and
similar sized dogs!).

I should point out that organizations, such as VEZ [2.8], recommend ``one
square meter (approximately 1 sq yard) of floorspace for [each] hedgehog.''
This is a good rule of thumb, since hedgies are not as small as hamsters or
gerbils, and do need space to roam in.  The alternative is to give them
a good play time, each night, to roam about a larger area under supervision.

You should be careful to make sure the grating in the cage you use leaves
narrow enough holes that your hedgehog can't get out, or even get his head
wedged in between the wires.  Chicken wire is probably not a very safe
choice.  Hedgehogs will often attempt to escape with an astounding amount
of vigour and can be quite single minded about doing so.  Younger hedgehogs
can easily get out of cages with openings between the wires as small as
1/2'' (1.5 cm) -- trust me on this, Sprocket earned the middle name Houdini
for just this achievement, while Pocus will gleefully climb to the top of
the cage looking for even the smallest niche to squeeze through.

Bedding, such as pine or aspen shavings [5.3], is recommended in any cage,
and most importantly, some sort of place to hide is needed.  Alternately,
you can use something like non-clumping cat litter, corncob litter [5.4], or
even epoxy coated aquarium stones.

The most frequently recommended den is a section of 4'' (or 6'' for larger
hedgehogs) diameter PVC (plastic) plumbing pipe.  You can get this at almost
any hardware or plumbing store for a couple of dollars.

For a home, or den, what I use are two wicker bread baskets (about 4'' x 6''
and 2-3'' deep) tied securely together with a door cut towards one end (about
3'' x 3'').  Velcro prefers this over either the PVC pipe home, or a hollow log.
Hocus and Pocus, however prefer the PVC pipe or especially their hollow log,
and won't have anything to do with the basket (except as a toy -- Pocus
tosses it like a seal with a ball).  Hedgehogs *can* be fickle!

A word of caution about using old socks or cloth with a loose weave to it:

    Don't use anything fabric for them to hide in.  I did have an old sock...
    Koosh liked to climb inside it, but the vet told me of an instance where
    a hedgehog got his leg caught in a thread, tried to get out, only made it
    worse, and the thread ended up slicing through her flesh to the bone.  He
    said he was able to save the leg, though.
    --  Kathleen Close

Here are a few suggestions that Nathan Tenny had for housing:

    An adult can live in a ten-gallon aquarium, though things get kind of
    cramped (and with that little space, they really need a wheel [5.6],
    which in turn eats up a lot of space).  A long 20-gallon tank should
    be OK, and bigger is better (in the wild, they have home ranges of a
    few square miles, so more space than that is wasted).

Cages at the large end of being suitable for Guinea pigs or rabbits
are likely fine.  Keep in mind that hedgehogs like to explore, and they
are great escape artists.  They can climb anything they can get their
claws hooked into, and by rolling into a ball and leaning forward, they
can manage to get down quite safely from virtually any height that didn't
need a long ladder to get them up to.

If you are not certain the place you are trying to keep your hedgehog in
is warm enough to keep him from going into hibernation [7.3], you might
want to consider placing a heating pad (on its LOWEST setting) under the
part of the pen where your hedgehog sleeps.  Make sure your hedgehog is
not going to come directly into contact with the heating pad, and that he
has the ability to get to an area away from it, should it be too warm for
him.

If your hedgehog gets too cool, you risk a number of problems, including
pneumonia.  Pneumonia can be especially bad, since you may not know he
has it and even if it clears up, the effects of scarring on the lungs can
result in death sometime later, when things otherwise appear perfectly fine.

Other suggestions from Katherine Long are to use heating elements intended
for lizards, or those for keeping germinating seeds warm.  These may be
much safer than a standard drugstore type heating pad.

    Ambergris much prefers to sleep under a thick towel rather than in
    her pipe.  Actually the towel is draped over a half hollow log and
    the pipe on top of the pad that is on top of the lizard warmer pad.
    She crawls between the towel and the pad cover, in preference to
    anywhere else.
    -- Katherine Long

Another idea, passed along courtesy of Christine Porter is:

    There are ceramic reptile heaters that are similar to light bulbs
    (but give off no light).  They screw into a regular light socket
    and can be positioned to radiate heat into the cage.  They run
    about $25 mail order, $40 retail, and come in various wattages.  If
    you want to add a thermostat, it gets pricier.

NOTE: When using these ``heat bulbs'' you must only use them in a ceramic
light socket.  My thanks to Ron Adrezin for this caution, and the following:

    The company that makes the heat bulbs also sells ceramic sockets with a
    clip at the bottom so that it may be attached to the cage.  I also use
    baggie ties on the clip to make absolutely sure that it cannot fall over
    and start a fire.

If your room temperature doesn't get too cool, you may be able to make do
with an idea like this:

    My daughter has come up with a neat idea to keep our heggies pretty warm.
    She has made them sleeping bags out of fleece and lined it with thin
    thermal material.
    -- Mary Novak

Just beware that there aren't any loose threads that can get caught around
busy hedgie legs.

Feel free to be inventive when it comes to keeping your hedgehog warm during
the cooler months of the year.  As long as there is a warm area where your
hedgehog's den is, and you haven't created a fire hazard or some other
impending disaster, you can pretty much use your imagination when it comes
to impromptu heaters.

It's imperative that your pet hedgehogs stay warm during the winter.
Hedgehogs will go into hibernation [7.3] if not kept warm.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?

Yes you can.  In addition to wood shavings making for a more comfortable
place to root and burrow around in, many hedgehogs are not overly particular
as to where they defecate.  Using shavings makes cleaning up after them
quite a bit easier.

I have heard of a couple of cases where hedgehogs were allergic to wood
shaving bedding, but these have been uncommon cases.  In all the cases I've
heard of, the hedgehog has experienced what appears to be a bloody nose
most nights while roaming about its enclosure.  The solution was to use
a more natural bedding (for example real dirt and grass).

I have also seen numerous warnings against using cedar shavings, especially
for baby or young hedgehogs where the strong aroma can actually overpower
and even kill them.  Here are some words of experience from Nathan Tenny:

    We're using pine shavings as a substrate, and all seems well.  DO NOT
    USE CEDAR; we have known people to lose hedgehogs because of keeping
    them on cedar shavings.  DO NOT USE CEDAR.  (To the best of our
    knowledge, pine shavings are safe; if you're concerned about wood
    shavings, per se, the safest route would be to keep them on blank
    newsprint.  Aspen shavings, which are thoroughly non-aromatic,
    should also be perfectly safe.)

The ``Safe Beddings FAQ'' now exists and is posted to the rec.pets Usenet
Newsgroup on a monthly basis.  Currently, I don't have any further
information on how get ahold of it, as it is not yet a formally approved
FAQ, and hence not yet stored on the FAQ repository.

I have to admit that when I acquired Velcro at 8 months of age, he came in
a pet carrier complete with a bedding of cedar shavings and has been none
the worse for wear from it, although I have used pine shavings, and now
aspen shavings, ever since.  While pine or aspen shavings do not have, what
some people consider the pleasant cedar scent, nor some of the insect (mite)
repelling qualities of cedar, everything I have seen strongly urges against
the use of cedar bedding for hedgehogs (and other small animals).  Another
point to remember about pine shavings is that, although slightly more dusty
than cedar shavings, they are typically also cheaper than cedar, at least in
most places.  Aspen shavings, on the other hand, tend to be a bit more
expensive than pine, but also tend to be more resistant to hedgehog
redecorating (it seems to be less subjected to being kicked out of the cage).

Mike McGary has the following words of wisdom on a further advantage of
using Aspen shavings:

    One of the benefits of Aspen shavings is that they are digestible.
    This can prevent problems resulting from eating the bedding (our
    babies have all eaten some bedding).

Indeed wood shavings of most kinds involve quite a bit of dust which can
have unpleasant side effects on small lungs.  Aspen, which appears to be
shredded rather than chipped, seems to be much better that pine or
especially cedar.

For those of you who want an alternative to wood shavings of any kind,
Kathleen Close passed along the following idea, courtesy of her veterinarian:

    Use terrarium lining or astroturf.  It's much cheaper in the long run.
    He suggested buying two lengths, washing them about every 3 days, and
    while one is drying, put the second one in.

Janet Jones sent along some information on a new product that also shows
some promise:

       	COMPANY:
       	Adsorbent Corporation
       	1051 Hilton Avenue
       	Bellingham, WA 98225
       	U.S.A.

    This information was taken directly from their packaging:

      CareFRESH Pet Bedding - The safest, healthiest bedding for your pet.

      For hamsters, gerbils, mice, rabbits, birds, reptiles, guinea pigs,
      cats, dogs, ferrets, skunks and other pets.

      CareFRESH is a patented pet bedding made from reclaimed wood pulp waste.
      This short fiber virgin pulp can't be made into paper so would normally
      be sent to a landfill or burned. CareFRESH helps save scarce resources.
      CareFRESH contains no added inks, dyes or chemical contaminants. It's
      better bedding, naturally.

    I use this bedding for all my small animals, ie: hamster, rat and
    hedgehogs. They have been on this bedding for about a month and seem to
    like it quite well.  The female hedgehog I just recently got loves to
    burrow underneath it, as do the rat and hamster.  I previously used corn
    cobs as I have allergies and wood chips of any kind make me ill. The dust
    in pine is terrible.  The corn cobs are pretty good, but they still are a
    little dusty and kind of rough. The only downside I found about CareFRESH
    bedding is that it is kind of expensive and hard to find.  But it does
    seem to last quite a while, so maybe in the long run it really is not as
    expensive as it seems.

Other suggestions are to use non-clumping cat litter, or corncob based litter.
The former has two potential dangers: dust and for male hedgehogs, getting
caught in the penal sheath -- the same as if you used it in a litter box
[5.4].  For corncob litter, the danger of it getting caught in delicate
places still exists, though not as likely, but the risk of dust is much
lower.

Although most bedding for pets is treated to prevent mites, bedding is still
one of the major sources of these little pests [8.4].  I have heard from a
couple of people who have reported that their vets told them that corn cob
bedding can be especially prone to mite infestations.  I do have to temper
that thought with the idea that if a particular brand or batch in the are
that these people lived was bad, it could have been the source for numerous
problems over quite a period of time.  Still, if you have mite problems,
it is probably worthwhile to switch to at least a different brand of bedding,
if not a different type -- at least for a while.

Looking still further afield, you can use the brightly coloured aquarium
gravel (the type that is epoxy coated).  This is not as absorbent as the
other bedding options, nor as warm, but it does provide a pretty safe, and
non-allergic alternative.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.4> What kind of litter should I use?

When it comes to the litter box, the primary concern is that you do NOT use
a clumping type litter.  Clumping litter can stick to your hedgehog when
s/he uses the litter box, forming almost a layer of cement, which can
quickly prevent urination.

Almost any brand of non-clumping cat litter is relatively safe. A clay based
litter may be preferable, as most hedgehogs like to dig in it, as they would
in soft soil or sand. Here again, you should ask the expert (your hedgehog)
for his/her preference.

It is apparently possible for even non-clumping litter to become caked on,
so you should check your hedgehog frequently.

    I have seen clay litter clump on one of our hedgehogs.  I let her
    walk around in the tub full of shallow water until it is softened
    enough to remove gently.
    -- Mike McGary

Another concern is that the litter you use shouldn't be too dusty:

    First, if you use cat litter for your hedgehog, it should be relatively
    dust-free as well as non-clumping.  I use Johnny Cat, which says it's
    99% dust-free.  I guess the dust can irritate their urinary tract, since
    they're so low to the ground.
    -- Alexis Sneller

Hedgehogs also like to dig and root in sand, and will often end up using
their litter boxes for this, instead of the intended purpose.  If yours
does this, you might want to try offering a sandbox [5.6] as a play area
as well.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.5> Hedgehog handling

There's an old joke that goes:

       	Question: How do you pick up a hedgehog?
       	Answer:   Carefully!

Actually the original tends to deal more with the mating habits of our
little friends, but I'm sure you get the point (or would that be points?).

One of the points I had missed in early versions of the FAQ was the need for
handling pet hedgehogs to familiarize them with you.  Until recently, this
section has dealt primarily with the technical side of the rather thorny
question of how to handle a hedgehog, rather than why.

Hedgehogs tend to be very nervous by nature and do not enjoy nature's best
eyesight.  As a result, they tend to find their way around using smell as
their primary sense.  When you first get a hedgehog as a pet, it is important
that your new friend come to identify your smell with that of a friend.  The
best way to do this is to spend as much time as you reasonably can (without
over-stressing the hedgehog) and gently hold or play with him.  Hedgehogs
that are thoroughly familiar with their human friends tend to be a lot
friendlier in most cases -- although it depends on the hedgehog, as it does
with any animal with a personality (or should that be critterality?).

It is also important to keep up the contact, to maintain the bond.  Spending
some time with your hedgehog(s) every couple of nights should do the job.
Clearly, doing so almost daily is better, but reality rarely lets you do
this.

What do you do when you just won't have the chance to spend as much quality
time with the hedgekids as you want, or if you've just gotten a new hedgehog
and want to do everything possible to help get him used to you?  Here is a
tip from Dave Ehrnstein, who, as a fairly large breeder, doesn't have the
time to spend with each and every new hedgehog:

    Another way to acquaint them with your scent is to wear an old t-shirt
    for two days, then put it in their cage.  They will nest under it, and
    your scent will become ``homey'' to them, not threatening.

You should be careful that there are no loose loops of thread on the shirt
that hedgefeet can get caught in (see caution in section [5.2]) and you
should also at least check on the hedgehog daily, but otherwise this idea
will help acquaint your new friend with your smell, and settle him into his
new home.

Now on to the ``how do I pick up a pincushion with the points all facing
out'' section.

Picking up a hedgehog, or otherwise handling him is difficult, at least
until he gets to know your smell.  Because of this, there is one cardinal
rule about hedgehog handling and that is ``never wear gloves.''  If you do,
your hedgehog will never become used to you, and your smell.  That said,
there may, indeed, be times when you have to.  As with any so called rule,
there are exceptions, and using your common sense is the best thing.

The recommended way to pick up a hedgehog is with one hand at each side
of him, then bring your hands gently together to cup him.  Never grasp a
hedgehog in a way that could allow any of your fingers to be caught in the
middle should he decide to roll into a ball.  Being in the middle of a
hedgehog ball is an extremely painful experience -- it's truly astounding
just how strong their muscles are [words of a single, never to be repeated,
unfortunate experience by the editor].

Aside from all the difficulties, it is important to handle your hedgehog
frequently, so that he can become familiar with your smell (or keep familiar
with it), and hence come to know you as a friend, instead of a large quill-
less hedgehog eating critter.

A well-handled hedgehog, who has come to know you as a friend, will easily
come to you with his quills lying flat, and will allow you to play with,
and pet him.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.6> Hedgehogs and wheels

Most hedgehogs dearly love to run, and a hedgehog wheel provide the
opportunity for much good exercise.  There are many pros and cons to using
wheels, but if done right, the pros far outweigh the cons.  Here are a few
thoughts on hedgehogs and wheels from Nathan Tenny, including some rough
pointers on making your own:

    They adore exercise wheels, and will run upwards of five miles a
    night (at a top speed of 12 mph!); their feet get stuck in the
    regular wire wheels, though, and screen is hard to clean (they
    seem to like defecating while on the move, which makes sense, I
    guess).  We've begun making wooden wheels out of popsicle sticks
    and cross-stitch circles (the 12'' size; 10'' is just slightly too
    small).  The axle is a thin dowel, and the spokes are just lengths
    of plywood (1'' x 0.5'', I think).  Depending on where it's being
    set up, such a wheel can be mounted in a bunch of different ways
    --- hung from the top of the tank [or cage], for instance.

Chuck Stoup passed along the following variation on building a wheel
that looks great:

    Over the weekend I made a hedgehog wheel as described in the hedgehog
    FAQ.  I made several improvements that I thought I'd share with everyone.

    On the FAQ the treadmill was made with popsicle sticks.  I picked up some
    of the plastic grid in the sewing store that is used for yarn rugs and
    the like.  I cut several strips the width of the treadmill and used a
    string to tie them together so its length was just longer than the
    circumference of the embroidery hoops.  I used 2 9'' hoops.  Then I
    wrapped the plastic mesh around the inner hoops and secured it with the
    outer hoop and tightened.  Then I cut some sand paper lengthwise just
    wide enough to fit in the treadmill of the wheel.  I used a hot glue gun
    to hold the paper down.  Brillo seems to really like it.

    I used sand paper for two reasons.  The first was the author of the FAQ
    mentioned about this great adhesive quality of hedgehog dung and how
    they seem to defecate on the run.  I figured sand paper would make an
    excellent surface that I can remove and discard when it gets too dirty.
    The plastic wont mind getting wet either.  The other reason I used sand
    paper was I figured if Brillo used it she would wear down her nails and
    I would not have to trim her.

If you are going to use sandpaper, you should make sure you are using a very
fine grade (probably 400 or higher grit), and you should also watch out for
foot problems.  Some hedgehogs can run their feet raw, or even to the point
of bleeding (yes, they are that insistent on running, that even bleeding
feet won't give them pause to stop).  If this happens, remove the sandpaper.

When I asked Chuck about using this information he also sent along the some
more good ideas:

    As you know, I used that plastic mesh for the running surface, but I
    didn't have spokes that I thought were any good.  At one point I decided
    that the same plastic mesh would make a good set of spokes.  I cut two
    pieces shaped like a cross and tied the tips of the cross to the mesh on
    the wheel.  To mount the axle I bought some eye-lets for clothing and
    swaged them in the center of the mesh as a hub and used a coat hanger as
    an axle.  Runs very smoothly with no noise.

I'm not sure about using the 9'' hoops (ours are 14'', and that seems just
right), but that depends entirely on the size of your hedgehog, and the
amount of space you have available.  The whole idea certainly sounds easier
than the popsicle stick method.