subject: Hedgehog FAQ [3/7] - Intro to Hedgehogs as pets

text:
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part3
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Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs

Last-modified: 21 March 2004
Version: 3.60

HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 3 of 7) -- INTRO TO HEDGEHOGS AS PETS
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara ([email])
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.

This document is copyright 2004 by Brian MacNamara.  See section [0.6]
for authorship information and redistribution rights.  In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.

The basic Hedgehog FAQ has seven parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one.  A complete table of contents for
all seven parts is given in part I.

Please note:  While my knowledge of hedgehogs has grown (far beyond my
wildest expectations when I began the FAQ), my knowledge is still quite
limited, especially in areas of health care.  I did not write, or verify,
all the information in this FAQ.  I have done my best to include only
accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness
of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that
it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way.  For advice
from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1],
or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian
who is familiar with hedgehogs.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

3. *** Introduction to pet hedgehogs ***

   <3.1> What are hedgehogs?  Should I get one?  What's good and bad
         about them as pets?
   <3.2> Where are pet hedgehogs illegal?
   <3.3> Are hedgehogs wild animals?
   <3.4> What's the average hedgehog lifespan?
   <3.5> I'm allergic to cats.  Will I be allergic to hedgehogs?
   <3.6> Do hedgehogs smell?
   <3.7> Do hedgehogs have tails?
   <3.8> Hedgehog monikers -- what do I call a hedgehog?
   <3.9> Her-hog or Him-hog?  What sex is Prickles?

4. *** Getting a pet hedgehog ***

   <4.1> Which types/colours are there?  Male or female?  What age?
   <4.2> How many should I get?
   <4.3> What to look for in a hedgehog / How to choose a hedgehog
   <4.4> How can I find a hedgehog breeder/contact in my area?
   <4.5> When Hedgie comes home
   <4.6> Hedgehog handling / socializing
   <4.7> How can I introduce my hedgehog to my (dog/cat/bird/fish/
         rabbit/etc.) with the least trouble?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

3. *** Introduction to hedgehogs ***

------------------------------

Subject: <3.1> What are hedgehogs?  Should I get one?  What's good and bad
               about them as pets?

Hedgehogs are small insectivores, looking much like an upside-down oval bowl,
that is covered with sharp quills, which feel much like a bristly brush, with
an adorable little face and ears peeking out from one end.  Neither legs nor
tail are very visible during normal movement.  Hedgehogs roll into a ball of
interlocking spines when threatened, leaving themselves all but invulnerable
to any natural predator.

Hedgehogs do have soft fur on their faces and bellies, and so are not
entirely prickly.  Their spines or quills have no barbs on them, and feel
much like a stiff brush, rather than bunch of needles, unless the hedgehog is
very upset.

Some hedgehogs have what appears to be a narrow reverse Mohawk hairdo (a
narrow furrow that runs lengthwise), though this is not present in all
species (e.g., the Egyptian hedgehog doesn't have this).

    It isn't a scar, they haven't lost quills.  It is natural and helps
    the quills point forward without getting crossed when they bristle.
    -- Katherine Long

Ranging in size from approximately 4 to 9 inches, or 10 to 22 cm, in length,
mature African Pigmy hedgehogs look for all the world to be little armoured
tanks being led around by one of the busiest noses in the animal kingdom.

Hedgehogs tend to be quite nervous in their temperament, and will generally
duck their head down, accompanied by rapid snuffling or snorting.  This
presents a very prickly forehead to any possible enemies.  The more used to
you (and awake) a hedgehog is, the less they will duck down and snuffle, and
the more their quills will be flat.

The hedgehogs that we keep as pets, throughout North and South America [4.1],
and I believe many other parts of the world, have managed to muddy the
already very clouded waters of hedgehog taxonomy.  What we call ``African
Pigmy'' hedgehogs, are actually a hybrid of a couple of species from northern
and central Africa.  Specifically, they are a combination of the Algerian
(Atelerix algirus) and the White-bellied (A. albiventris).  The Southern
African or Cape hedgehog (A. frontalis) is not really part of the mixture,
although they do seem to be sporatically kept as pets in their native
regions.  The status or categorization of the Pruner's hedgehog (A. pruneri)
is up in the air, and this may actually be an alternate name for the Cape
hedgehog (A. frontalis).

Just to add to the mess, there is more than a little uncertainty which
species actually makes up what we call the long-eared, or Egyptian hedgehog,
in the pet world.  You see, there are Long-eared hedgehogs (Hemiechinus
auritus), and there are Egyptian hedgehogs (not an official name from what I
can tell, most likely these being Ethiopian hedgehogs) (Paraechinus
aethiopicus).  Both of these, as you can tell by their taxonomic names, are
of quite different genera let alone species.

So, as you can see, things are a more than a bit muddled when it comes to
deciding which hedgehog is what.  I must extend my regards to Nigel Reeve,
whose research helped provide some sense of consistency to all of this, at
last.

To add to the fray, here are some comments from Nathan Tenny:

    Hedgehog taxonomy is kind of a mess, and they have multiple Latin names;
    the leader now seems to be Erinaceus albiventris, but one also sees
    Atelerix albiventris and Atelerix pruneri.  (I think that Pruner's
    hedgehog is now considered to be a separate species, but it hasn't
    always been.)  [this remains pretty uncertain and iffy in most research
    that I've found - ed.]  There may be some overlap with Erinaceus
    frontalis [Atelerix does seem to have become the accepted genus name
    for A. frontalis - ed.] as well, and just to complicate matters, older
    works refer to the genus Atelerix as Aethechinus.

    Grzimek's Animal Encyclopedia says that they weigh about 200-220 grams
    (about seven ounces); this is for wild animals.  Captives seem to be
    much larger; the smallest of our three hedgehogs is 250 g and growing,
    and our large male weighs about 400-450 g when he isn't overweight.
    (However, all our animals have come from exceptionally large bloodlines.)
    Adults are about six to eight inches long, depending on how far they're
    stretching when you measure.

    Hedgehogs are basically nocturnal; they may wake up a couple of times
    during the day to wander around their enclosures, get a snack or a drink
    of water, and so on, but they really get active late at night (ours wake
    up between 10 PM and midnight, but that may be because that's when we
    turn the lights off).

    Whether they have wonderful personalities depends on your taste.  Your
    prospective hedgehog will sleep all day, and, while it may well become
    quite sociable when awake, it probably will not let you pick it up when
    it wants to sleep.  (Can you blame it?  More to the point, can you argue
    with it?)  We've never met an African hedgehog that would bite
    aggressively, though there are rumours of such.  (Note that all the
    Africans we've known have been not only captive-bred but hand-raised
    from infancy; we make no guarantees about imports or non-socialized
    animals.)  They do explore with their mouths, so if you smell
    interesting, you may get licked or nipped; they have fairly sharp teeth
    (a row of short pegs with points, but nothing drastic).

As pets go, hedgehogs are generally not cuddly lap-fungus type pets, but if
you want something that's a little different, not too big, and definitely
adorable, then maybe a hedgehog is for you.  If, however, you have been
fascinated by hedgehogs for about twenty years, like I have, there is just no
question.

Among their pros and cons, you should keep in mind the nocturnal nature of
hedgehogs.  If you are a night-owl, or often find yourself up and around
during the dark hours, a hedgehog can be a very welcome companion.  On the
other hand, if you jump out of bed early in the morning and fade with the
sun, you and your hedgehog may never see one another.

Although most hedgehogs rarely, if ever, bite or nip, it does happen, as can
occur with any animal.  For information on biting see section [6.6]

Hedgehogs are also relatively low maintenance (though not ``no
maintenance'').  There's no need to take them out for a walk around the block
in the middle of a raging blizzard, or head off to the park, pooper-scooper
in hand, during a heat wave, with a hedgehog.  Their small, but not too
small, size also makes for a good compromise.  They do prefer regular
attention, but it doesn't need to be long at a time.

Then there's always the one really effective decision factor: hedgehogs are
irresistibly CUTE!

------------------------------

Subject: <3.2> Where are hedgehogs illegal?

Unfortunately, there are some locations that do not yet allow pet hedgehogs.
The IHA [2.5] can possibly help provide guidance on how you can enlighten
any backward bureaucracies you run into.  The list below started as a very
stripped down version of the last list published by the N.A.H.A. to which I
have also included additional notes thanks to people sending me information.

At the moment hedgehogs are not permitted in the U.S. in the states of
Alabama, California, Georgia, Hawaii and Utah, although I've been told that
hedgehogs are quite available in both Alabama (where they are quite available
in pet stores, according to Tim Pearson), and Utah (the official word there
seems to be somewhat uncertain -- possibly the same situation as existed in
Idaho).

To start this off, I have some good news to add for a change.  I have
received word from Julihana, in Alaska, that:

   The Alaska Board of Fish and Game called off the ban on hedgehogs on
   July 1, 1998.  There is still a little talk over having to have permits,
   but after talking to them today, Game and Fish assured me that they are
   99% sure that no permit will be required.
   -- Julihana

This is indeed good news, and even if permits are required, that makes it
much better than before.  Banning hedgehogs in Alaska is one of the few cases
which made no sense, from any environmental perspective, as there is
essentially no chance of feral hedgehogs surviving through the winter.  Kudos
to the Alaska Board of Fish and Game for showing a healthy dose of common
sense.

Arizona is somewhat open to doubt as to its status.  It appears that given
the right forms of registration, keeping hedgehogs is possible, though this
level of registration may be very difficult to obtain.  Here are some
`clarifications' on the situation:

   The restrictions in AZ are rather bizarre. A.P. hedgehogs are
   ``officially'' legal, but F&G doesn't want them there. So, to get
   around the rules, they say that hedgehogs ``are'' legal if you can
   first meet certain housing and other requirements.  The requirements
   that they stipulate are virtually impossible for even large, accredited
   zoos to meet, so the chances of the average Joe being able to keep
   hedgehogs as pets in AZ are virtually nil.
   -- Bryan Smith

California is well known for being closed to most `exotic' pets.  This,
unfortunately, appears to be cast in concrete, with essentially no chance for
change.  At present the Ferret people have been working hard to get ferrets
legalized, but even this (ferrets are officially domesticated), is being
blocked at every turn, with laws in the works that are intended to all but
permanently block any future attempts.

The reasons given are `environmental,' with the claimed fear that any such
animals being introduced might escape and survive in feral conditions, and
possibly upset some part of the existing ecosystem.  There are endless
further `political' opinions as to further reasons, but this is not an
appropriate place to delve into such suggestions.

I do know that entering California, you are basically subject to inspection,
and if found to be with hedgehog(s), you will be politely, but firmly turned
back.

A couple of years ago, Georgia clarified their position on hedgehogs, making
them officially illegal.  Thanks to Jerry in Atlanta for this unfortunate bit
of news.

My thanks to Alicia Look for letting me know the official word for Hawaii --
hedgehogs are not allowed.

The N.A.H.A. had Idaho listed as not allowing hedgehogs, but courtesy of some
checking by Wendi Smit, it appears the law is against allowing European
hedgehogs as pets, African Pigmy hedgehogs are allowed, and are available in
Idaho.

Regarding Maine, I've received information from Jazmyn Concolor that
indicates there is no actual law which prevents sale of hedgehogs in pet
stores.  Prior to this the information I had (from Jesse and Kris Welsh)
suggested that it was apparently legal to own them, and to sell them
privately, but not for pet stores to sell them.  Whether this is because of
a happy change in the laws, or from the previous situation being either an
odd interpretation of obscure statutes, or even a case of it being a
municipal regulation, I'm not sure, at least it seems to be a move in the
right direction.

Maryland has seen the light (in November of 1994 -- Woobie), and is now legit
for hedgehogs.

New Jersey requires a permit from the State Fish and Game.  The permit is $10
no matter how many you have.  My thanks to Pam Powers for clearing this up.

In early 1997 there was a scare that hedgehogs had been banned in Oregon, but
on further investigation it turned out that the ban only really applied to
European hedgehogs, and that African Pigmy hedgehogs were legit, no permit
required.

Pennsylvania apparently has a law to protect its own animal breeders, making
it illegal to import hedgehogs into PA (which thereby manages to make it
impossible for PA breeders to legally get new stock), although PA-bred
hedgehogs are legal.  Please note that I've recently (Feb/2002) seen some
indications that hedgehogs in general might be being considered illegal in
Pennsylvania, and to be very careful of this.  I'm sorry that I haven't had
the time to look into this futher at present.

Wyoming's statutes clearly allow for pet hedgehogs, which is good news:

  (E) Mammals: [...] hedgehogs (Erinaceus spp.); [...]; certificate of
  veterinary inspection is not required.
  -- Courtesy of Steph Hyne

Some states also require you to go through their local Fish and Game
department (or the equivalent) to get a permit.  For example Wyoming and New
Jersey require this, as pointed out to me by Marcia Kautz and Pam Powers,
resp.

In addition to all the above information, anyone breeding hedgehogs in the
U.S. for sale or trade, must be USDA registered.  This has changed from the
previous exemption for ``Pocket Pets'' which allowed small breeders to go
without registration and inspections.  My thanks to Sharon Massena for
passing along the change.

In Canada most of the information I have been able to find (courtesy of John
Ofner) is that hedgehogs are permitted in all provinces.  Until recently, they
were not permitted in Quebec, but thanks to Michael Simla, for passing along
the following response he received after looking into the matter, it's now
clear that they allowed:

   ``since November 14th, 2002, it is allowed to keep hedgehogs in captivity
   in Quebec, except the ones from Europe because of the risk of accidental
   introduction in Quebec's nature.''

There had been conflicting reports that hedgehogs are illegal in the province
of Alberta, but it appears that this is now something for the history books.
At the very least, there are an abundance of breeders there.

Courtesy of Linda Wheatley, I finally have accurate information on the status
of hedgehogs in the province of Alberta:

   Hedgehogs are legal in Alberta but our Fish and Wildlife people are still
   requiring us to have a temporary shelter permit.  Some Fish & Wildlife
   offices are telling people that it is not necessary to get them and some
   are saying it is necessary.

In short, the letter of the law appears to be that you still need a permit,
but some jurisdictions, are simply acknowledging the reality of hedgehogs
being pets, and waiving the obvious extra workload it would cause them.

Prince Edward Island is that allows Hedgehogs to be bought and sold privatly
but Pet stores are not allowed to sell them.  Thanks to Shirley Ann Blakeney
(and Wesley), for this information on the situation in PEI.

There are also some municipalities which have passed laws banning hedgehogs.
Here is a brief list of the ones that I am aware of:

       	New York City, NY, USA
       	Windsor, ON, Canada

A recent attempt to ban hedgehogs and other exotics, in Toronto, was narrowly
averted.  I'm still not sure who managed to get thing changed, but they have
my personal gratitude!

In the U.K. it appears that African Pigmy hedgehogs are allowed as pets:

   European hedgehogs are partially protected in the U.K.  Trapping them
   requires permission from the proper authorities.  However, African
   hedgehogs are commercially available.
   -- Travis Carter

It also appears that they are allowed as pets in the Netherlands, and
possibly throughout other European countries as well.

   Here in the Netherlands (and other European countries as for as I know of)
   you're allowed to keep hedgehogs.  In the Netherlands the only species
   that is not allowed to be kept, is the European hedgehog (!?).  I know
   that you are permitted to keep the European kind in Germany.  Therefore
   it's no coincidence that a lot of books about European hedgehogs are of
   German origin.  I'm not sure about regulations in other countries
   according to the E. europaeus. I think that you can keep them there,
   except for the U.K.

   (I know that they are considered to be a delicacy in Portugal and in some
   East-European countries.)
   -- Anja van der Werf

I should point out here that in spite of Anja's claim about being on the
menu, I've been informed that due to their name in Portuguese this seems
somewhat unlikely (at least in relatively modern times).  Thanks to Teresa
Claudino for this information, and as almost every hedgie lover out there
probably feels, I can only hope this is true!  ;-}

It appears that Finland (now) allows African Pigmy hedgehogs as pets:

   We (yes, here in Finland) now have pet hedgehogs, and its all legal too!

   (1) it is illegal to hold "European Hedgehogs" as pets in Finland.
   They are a "protected" spieces, but there are some things you can do:

   o It is legal to feed the hedgehogs on your yard, as long as you don't
   take them home

   o It is legal to build them shelters on your yard, as long as you don't
   take them home

   o And (this should be ok) you can take hurt hedgehogs to see a veterinarian

   (2) apparenlty this protection law doesn't apply to other spieces of
   hedghogs such as the African Pigmy Hedgehog.  Hence they can be freely
   kept as pets.  There are several rules you need to obey when bringing
   a pet hedgehog from abroad to Finland, but they are mostly quarantine
   and paperwork related.

   (3) you can now find pigmy hedgies in at least one pet store (sorry,
   can't really say much more about this).  As far as I can tell, there
   is now somewhere between 10 and 20 pet hedgehogs in Finland.  I know
   one other owner personally, and know that one couple purchased one from
   the same petstore we got Noa from.  These hedgies arrived from the USA
   during summer 2001.  There should also be at least one breeding couple,
   but I don't have much info on that.
   -- Marcin Dobrucki

It also appears that African Pigmy hedgehogs (both the white bellied and
especially the Egyptian long-eared varieties) are quite popular as pets in
Japan, and are legal there.  My thanks to Tetsuro Oka, DVM for this
information.

There is also a growing interest in hedgehogs as pets coming from other parts
of Southeast Asia (Hong Kong, Singapore, etc.), and from South America
(Brazil, in particular).  I am presuming that they are legal as pets in these
locations (or that there are no laws limiting pets in place), but that `is'
an assumption on my part, only.

Again, I have no official confirmation of most of these (although the bans
listed at the beginning, of this list, are pretty certain), and you should
probably check first.  There are a number of U.S. states that require
permits, and various localities, and individual municipalities may also
require special permits.

While keeping European hedgehogs as pets is not permitted throughout much of
Europe, there are exceptions.  I believe it is quite common in Russia, and
there is an interesting situation in Germany, as related by Jan Micheel:

   It is generally illegal to keep pet (European) hedgehogs in Germany since
   they are an endangered species and therefore protected.

   There is a notable exception: if you happen to find a specimen in the
   autumn months which does not appear to be fit for winter (there is also
   a weight limit), you may keep it until the end of winter.

   In this case, hedgehogs get free medical treatment.

To my mind, at least, this is a policy worthy of some real commendation, and
one that should probably be a model for other countries and animals as well.
Is my pro-hedgehog bias showing again?  ;-}

------------------------------

Subject: <3.3> Are hedgehogs wild animals?

This depends on whether or not you are talking about African Pigmy hedgehogs
or European hedgehogs.  In the case of European hedgehogs, the answer is, of
course, yes.  In the case of the African Pigmy variety, the ones being
offered and kept as pets are now far removed from their wild ancestors.  In
parts of Europe, some African pigmy hedgehogs are still being imported, which
results in this being a more grey area.

As Nathan Tenny pointed out [3.1], the hedgehogs available as pets are a
captive-bred African species.  These have been bred in captivity for roughly
twenty years.  As such, they should not be confused with the European variety
that are wild animals (and are protected in most European countries).  It is
unlikely that a pet hedgehog could survive very long in the wild, especially
in the colder parts of North America, which seems to be where they are most
popular.  However, the chance does exist, at least in the warmer climates,
and needless to say, finding out whether or not they can is an experiment
best left to theory, rather than practice.

------------------------------

Subject: <3.4> What's the average hedgehog lifespan?

The absolute answer to the question of how long hedgehogs can live is that
nobody is really certain.

The average lifespan for African pigmy hedgehogs in captivity runs from 4-6
years, with some living as long as 8 years.  From what I have read, this is
already far better than the average of 1-3 years in the wild (though this is
due more to predation, disease, and other environmental factors than to old
age).

African pigmy hedgehogs have not been kept in captivity for many years
as yet -- that along with the fact that we are still in the early stages
of learning how best to care for them, is likely to allow their longevity
to continue to increase over the upcoming years.

In addition to the good care aiding this, the fact that hedgies are starting
to settle down and become much less nervous will likely also help
considerably.

All in all, their lifespan is quite long compared to many smaller mammals,
which means that there's a good chance you can continue to get along with
your prickly little pal for many happy years.

------------------------------

Subject: <3.5> I'm allergic to cats.  Will I be allergic to hedgehogs?

The short answer here is, probably not.

The main reason for being allergic to cats is because of the dander, not the
hair.  When a cat 'bathes' itself, it deposits a coating of saliva over its
fur.  It is this coating turned to an extremely fine dust that is the cause
of most allergies to cats.  While hedgehogs do not generally do this (other
than when self-anointing [7.1]), it is not inconceivable that a person could
be allergic to almost any animal.

I would suggest that if you have severe allergies to cats (or any other
animal), you find a friend who has hedgehogs and visit them where they keep
their hedgehogs to see whether any reaction occurs.  Note: if your allergic
reactions are serious enough, you may want to discuss it with a doctor first,
and/or take precautions in case a reaction occurs.

In almost every case I have heard of where a person appears to be allergic to
a hedgehog, the actual culprit is often the bedding, rather than the animal.
Most forms of bedding are dusty to some degree or other, and are much more
prone to causing problems than the hedgehogs themselves are.  If you suspect
this might be a problem to you, there are various forms of bedding you can
experiment with (such as products like CareFRESH, astroturf, or even good old
fashioned dirt or gravel) that have much lower levels of dust than most wood
fibre bedding products.

------------------------------

Subject: <3.6> Do hedgehogs smell?

They have VERY busy noses; they smell everything they can!

People who have had experience with small pet rodents, or with ferrets seem
to ask this question most often.  Hedgehogs do not have scent glands like
ferrets, and as long as their cage or pen is kept reasonably clean there is
generally very little odour.  Most (some?) hedgehogs can be trained to use a
litter box, making the task of keeping the cage clean that much easier.  Even
those that don't adapt to using a litter box will often use one area of their
cage or pen for this which assists in cleaning.

While hedgehogs do generally have little in the way of odour, what you feed
them can affect whether or not their droppings smell.  Generally the more
``wet'' food you feed a hedgehog, the more their droppings, and their
environment, will smell, although brands and types of food can have as great
an effect as just wet versus dry foods.  Also, Pretty Pets hedgehog food is
has been reported to result in smellier than average droppings [6.3].

Younger hedgehogs and pregnant/nursing females also tend to have much
stronger scented urine and droppings.  If your hedgie is still in his or her
`teens' just be patient, and keep cleaning the cage, often.  They will almost
certainly grow out of it.

If you are finding your hedgehog pen tends to smell, try changing the blend
of food he is getting, or just clean house on him a bit more often.

------------------------------

Subject: <3.7> Do hedgehogs have tails?

Yes, but barely.  There really is a tail under there.  Most hedgehogs have
only a pointed little nub of tail that spends almost all of its time hidden
under the quills.  This leaves the poor hedgehog looking for all the world
like he doesn't have a tail.

Here are a few interesting words from Katherine Long on hedgehog tails:

    My hhog, Ambergris, uses her tail - it isn't a useless appendage.
    She uses it as a pusher when she is trying to go underneath stuff.
    Strange and wondrous.

------------------------------

Subject: <3.8> Hedgehog monikers -- what do I call a hedgehog?

I can think of a lot of things here -- especially when I remember the times
that Velcro closed up on my fingers!  However I will try to keep this civil.

This section is more for amusement than much else, and to keep track of some
of the ways people refer to our prickly little friends.  Probably the most
popular one I've seen is ``hedgies'' with ``hhog'' running a close second.  I
would argue that the first is probably more pronounceable but they both pale
in comparison to the following from Cathy Johnson-Delaney who contentedly
referred to her FussGus as a ``Tribble from Hell.''

With the media's love of ridiculous catchy names, it probably comes as no
surprise that the term ``Yuppie Puppy'' has appeared in some places
(including the N.A.H.A.?!?!) applied to hedgehogs.

While I'm on the subject, baby hedgehogs are usually referred to as
``hoglets'' or ``hedgehoglets'', or more frequently as ``aren't they so
CUTE!''  The term piglet seems to be used quite frequently in Europe, and
sometimes elsewhere as well.

I don't know if an official term exists for a group of hedgehogs (other than
maybe a ``contradiction-in-terms'' since hedgehogs often don't tend to live
in what we would consider groups.  The official name for a group of hogs is a
``drift'' but I question if that applies to hedgehogs.  Most breeders appear
to refer to their hedgehogs as a ``herd'' but I have to admit the thought of
trying to ``herd'' hedgehogs strikes me as somewhat ridiculous to say the
least!

------------------------------

Subject: <3.9> Her-hog or Him-hog?  What sex is Prickles?

One question I get asked a lot, and I haven't the slightest clue why I didn't
add the answer here earlier, is how do you tell what sex a hedgehog is.

Unfortunately, hedgehogs don't come with blue or pink tipped quills to make
the job easy (at least most don't).  Some breeders add a spot of non-toxic
paint, etc., but even that's no guarantee.  There have been more than a few
people who brought home ``male'' hedgies, only to have them give birth to a
litter, only a short time later.  In fact, it can be downright difficult, to
figure out the sex, unless your hedgehog is willing to let you hold him or
her on their back long enough for a look.  The idea is to get a good look at
their tummy.

If you can't get your prickly little friend to unroll enough while being held
in your hands, you might try a piece of glass or clear plastic and look up at
them while they are wandering (hopefully not too far) on it.

Anyway, enough beating about the quills, on to how to tell if you have a
her-hog, or a him-hog.

For male hedgehogs, the sex organ, or penal sheath, is located about 2/3 of
the way from the nose to the tail (along the tummy), and looks like a large
belly-button.

In the female, the sex organ is located all the way down the tummy, directly
adjacent to the anus.  The female will also have a row of nipples along each
side, below the quill line, within the soft tummy fur.  These are often hard
to see, but do show as small pink spots, if you have the chance to look
carefully.

In babies, it can be difficult to tell sexes, without experience, due to the
small size causing everything to be together.  Beyond the baby stage, the
rule of thumb is that if you look, and can't tell for certain, it's probably
a female, as males are usually pretty unmistakable.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

4. *** Getting a pet hedgehog ***

------------------------------

Subject: <4.1> Which types/colours are there?  Male or female?  What age?

What are referred to as African Pigmy hedgehogs that are available as pets,
throughout North America [3.1], and most of the world, are generally a blend
of a couple of species of hedgehogs: Four-toed or White-bellied hedgehogs
(Atelerix albiventris) and Algerian hedgehogs (A. algirus), though there has
been some speculation that that there is some Pruner's (Cape) hedgehog
(A. frontalis / A. pruneri) added as well.  My thanks to Sharon Massena, for
reminding me that most of our pet hedgies are actually hybrid varieties, and
again to Nigel Reeve for helping straighten the whole mess out.  This is not
necessarily the case elsewhere, such as in Europe, however, even with African
pigmy type hedgehogs.  In addition, Egyptian (? long-eared) hedgehogs, are
kept as pets in some places.

Of these, the first group are similar in appearance and temperament.  These
tend to be very well behaved, and will rarely, if ever, nip an owner, but
like with any animal, given the right (or wrong) circumstances, it can happen
(see [6.6] for advice on biting).

Four-toed or white-bellied, and Algerian hedgehogs tend to have a whitish or
light coloured face, while Pruner's hedgehogs have a darker or masked face.
The real difference, though is in the number of toes on the hind feet:
Pruner's and Algerian hedgehogs have five like most hedgehogs, while the
White-Bellied hedgehog is also known as the Four-toed hedgehog for obvious
reasons (but only the hind feet).

Egyptian or long-eared hedgehogs (the ears being the most obvious
differentiating factor) are, however, known for having a somewhat more
aggressive personality, and will frequently nip or bite, as suggested here by
Nathan Tenny:

    [Cerebus] (one of Nathan's former troupe -- ed.) is an Egyptian hedgehog
    (_Hemiechinus auritus_).  The [care instructions in this FAQ also]
    apply to him, but his personality is rather different.  There aren't
    many on the market as yet, but they're distinguishable by their
    loooong ears.  They are extremely cute animals, very active and
    seemingly rather intelligent, but they *really* bite, and are not
    recommended as cuddly pets!  We hand-raised Cerebus from a very young
    age, playing with him a lot in hopes of making him comfortable with
    us, but to no avail; as he's reached adulthood, being comfortable has
    come to mean that he's not scared to bite us.  Oops.

This behaviour has been confirmed by Anja van der Werf, who has also pointed
out that in spite of this, they are generally more popular as pets in Europe
than are White-Bellied or Pruner's hedgehogs.

Regarding colour, most hedgehogs are covered with white and grey or brown
ticked quills, sometimes called salt and pepper coloured, or agouti (though
I'm told this term is now `out of favour' as it largely implies all such
`banded' appearing hedgehogs are the same, which is incorrect).

As colour research has progressed, one of the things that has come to light
is that there is no such thing as a `basic' hedgehog colour.  Each hedgehog
is a specific colour, even though many of the grey or brown ticked ones will
look `similar' to an observer who is unaware of the (sometimes subtle
differences).

Some of the more dramatic appearing colour variations are the ``snowflakes.''
These are often all white, or almost all white, but do not possess the albino
gene.  Albino hedgehogs also exist, and apparently the early problems with
them being unhealthy and not terribly robust, are now largely a thing of the
past (if, indeed, there ever were problems).

The list of known colours seems to be ever expanding with new variations
appearing every time I turn around.  For details on colours, see the Advanced
Topics part of the FAQ, in section [10.4].

As far as personality goes, it has historically been thought that females are
generally friendlier than males, and will become familiar with a new owner
more quickly.  This, however, appears to be primarily a result of how a lot
of breeders handle their animals -- males are usually not handled as much,
and hence are not as gentled down.  Properly handled when they are young,
there is little or no personality difference between sexes.  Being friendly
generally means their quills will be laid back smoother, and they will have
less of a tendency to roll into a ball.

Females tend to be more expensive, both because of their perceived
friendliness, and because of their ability to produce more hedgehogs.
Breeders usually keep a ratio of several females for each male, which makes
for a higher quantity of males available as pets, and hence another reason
for the usually cheaper selling price of males.  Males on the other hand, do
tend to self-anoint [7.1] more often than females, and this amazing feat of
dexterity is something not to be missed!

The unusual colour varieties, such as snowflakes, were originally considered
to be somewhat more high-strung in temperament than the more common salt and
pepper hedgehogs.  From what I have been able to determine, this is not
directly related to the colour, but is more a side-effect of the inbreeding
done to try and propagate the special colouring.  In any case, temperament is
going to depend largely on both the breeding, and on the type and amount of
handling, rather than the exact colouration.

It appears there is another way to create a different colour hedgehog ...
while not quite in the same genre as the colourations above, one of the
people I've been in touch with on the net (whose name I will withhold to
avoid potential embarrassment) passed along a story to me.  This kind hearted
hedgehog addict once fed her little herd of hedgies a treat of strained
carrots (baby food) one night along with their normal food.  The hedgehogs
seemed to find this new item interesting and proceeded to munch on it, then,
as hedgehogs will do, they all self-anointed.  My friend thought nothing of
it, other than that hedgehogs don't really like strained carrots.  In the
morning, however, when the light wasn't quite so dim, my friend (who is
probably a lifelong enemy by now) discovered an entire small herd of very
``orange'' hedgehogs!  There it is folks -- the latest in hedgehog fashion --
the Orange Hedgehog.  I have since learned from friends and relatives with
small children, that few things come close to strained carrots in staining
ability, so I can well imagine that the effect of this was pretty amazing.  I
know I'll probably be blacklisted for life for adding this, but it was much
too good to resist!  ;-)

To compound the trouble I've gotten into above, I have also heard of another
kind hearted hedgie addict who offered her hedgehogs a treat of raspberries.
Come morning, once she realized they weren't showing the results of a vicious
fight and that the `blood' was nothing more than two seriously
raspberry-anoited hedgies, it too, became time for a hogwash.  It seems you
can create an amazing variety of impromptu colours (and flavours) of
hedgehogs! ;-)

The best age to acquire a pet hedgehog is shortly after they have been weaned
(after about 6-8 weeks of age).  Hedgehogs are completely independent by this
stage, and adapt to new owners much more readily when young.  This doesn't
mean that an older hedgehog won't become used to you and friendly towards
you, it will just take a little longer and a little more patience.

------------------------------

Subject: <4.2> How many should I get?

Hedgehogs have historically been considered solitary creatures, that do not
particularly get along well together, and in fact only like to be close to
one another during mating.  This now appears to be changing, with many
breeders keeping at least females together in groups, and in some cases even
males.  I don't know whether this is the result of African Pigmy hedgehogs
taming down as a species, or whether they were always a bit more social than
we gave them credit for.  In any case, keeping same sex groups together
(though groups of females do better than groups of males, who still seem to
be a bit more territorial) can tend to be just fine, though it is always
important to keep an eye open for problems.  Kept together, hedgehogs will
often curl up together to sleep, and if one is quite young, it might treat an
older one as if it were its parent, and follow it around -- an adorable site
to see.

One of factors that helps in keeping groups of hedgehogs together is to
provide adequate space.  If things are too crowded, you can usually count on
fights (gee, that almost sounds like elementary school...).

All that having been said, hedgehogs are quite happy when kept individually,
and don't seem to miss the company of other hedgehogs, unless they were
previously housed with others.  There is no problem with having only a single
hedgehog as a pet.

Keeping a male within vision, or scent range of a mother with hoglets (even
if in separate enclosures) can result in the babies being eaten.  If you do
want more than one hedgehog, be sure you provide plenty of privacy for each.

    Of course, opposite-sex pairs are a definite no-no unless you want babies.
    -- Nathan Tenny

Hedgehogs that are used to being kept together with others, do often tend to
show signs of depression if separated.  This is something to keep in mind if
you do plan to keep your hedgies together, then need to separate them later.

------------------------------

Subject: <4.3> What to look for in a hedgehog / How to choose a hedgehog

The one carrying the little sign saying `hedgehog lover wanted, inquire
within' is probably a good start.  If that fails, pick the one with the cute
face!  Oops, I can see myself getting in trouble from someone who bought them
all by following that advice.

Selecting a hedgehog can be rather difficult.  Unless you are after a very
specific colour, it's largely a case of trying to see enough to decide on
which hedgehog to pick.

The normal situation for looking at a prospective pet is not very well suited
to looking at hedgehogs.  Hedgies like to be up and around in the very early
morning, or in the late evening.  They don't like bright lights, and often
get nervous around people they don't know.  All of this can make it difficult
to look at hedgehogs.

So what do you try to choose based on?  Here are some tips that should help:

    (1) It is best to start young.  About 6-8 weeks old (just after having
    been weaned).  At this age, hedgies should be quite small, still --
    about 2" or 5 cm long.  Older hedgies are also fine, but may take a
    bit more time to get used to you, or if from a pet store, they may
    not have been played with and socialized for some time.

    (2) In spite of the time and lighting, the best hedgehogs will wake up
    and come out to play readily, exploring and sniffing your hands
    without balling up or snuffing too much.  Some snuffling is to be
    expected, but the quills should stay pretty smoothed down once your
    potential new little friend wakes up.  Balling up, snuffling too
    much or being too afraid are not good signs.  Of course, biting
    (not the tasting, gentle nibble type) is an instant black mark.

    (3) Look for bright clear eyes, and a well rounded body.  Some hedgies
    do have a leaner, straighter body shape, but this is usually not a
    good sign in a young hedgehog.  Hedgehogs should be energetic and
    inquisitive.

    (4) Check the paws and toes to make sure they all look good and the
    hedgie is able to get around just fine.  If possible, you should
    also check the tummy for any problems, sores, or just to double
    check the sex.

Beyond that, there isn't a lot I can suggest.  There will always be some
potential for problems -- hedgehogs are prone to congenitive problems, some
of which don't appear until the hedgehog is a few months old.  Even the
healthiest seeming hoglet can wind up having such problems.

Besides, you're only going to get as far as seeing the first little face
and lose all sense of control, anyway...

------------------------------

Subject: <4.4> How can I find a hedgehog breeder/contact in my area?

One of the best options here is to contact the International Hedgehog
Registry (IHR) [2.3], who can probably direct you to a reputable local
breeder, and who may be the best source of information.

In addition, you can check in the yellow pages under exotic animals, or look
in the classified ads section of your local newspapers.  Many breeders will
place an ad here, especially when they have babies available.

Another good source, and one with a beneficial side effect, is to contact
veterinarians in your are, to see which treat hedgehogs, and whether they can
point you to any breeders in your area.  You're going to need to know a
hedgehog friendly veterinarian, anyway, and this will ensure you find a
breeder who takes good care of their hedgehogs.

Hedgehogs are becoming more readily available, and are showing up in many pet
stores, and I've even heard of them occasionally being available at animal
shelters.

Another possible lead towards finding that perfect hedgehog is to contact the
U.S. Department of Agriculture (U.S.D.A.).  Breeders in the U.S. are
generally supposed to be registered with the U.S.D.A.  This is generally not
observed very seriously.  Still, the U.S.D.A. may be able to provide names
and addresses of large breeders in the U.S.

------------------------------

Subject: <4.5> When Hedgie comes home

Congrats!  Your new little friend just came home with you.  So what do you
need to know ASAP, other than to spoil him absolutely rotten?!

    (1) Hedgehogs are escape artists!  Make sure that whatever cage or
    enclosure you use, has openings too small to get through, or to
    get stuck in.  Hedgehogs can squeeze through any opening just a
    fraction bigger than their skull, and they will.  They can, and
    will, also climb -- anything, especially water bottles.  Lids are
    NOT optional, especially with babies.

    (2) Temperature.  Hedgehogs need to be warm -- warmer than you keep your
    house.  See section [5.2] for ideas on keeping a hedgie warm enough,
    but generally something like a heating pad on its lowest setting,
    under part of the enclosure (so the hedgie can get away from the
    heat if it gets too warm) is the usual way to go.

    (3) Food and water.  For food, at first, the best thing to do is use the
    same food your hedgehog was eating at the breeder or store, at least
    to help them adjust to the move.  Ideally, you should feed them  one
    of the better hedgehog foods now available see section [6.3].  If you
    can't find that, then a diet, or light, premium cat or dog food will
    suffice, at least for now.  A Guinea pig water bottle works well (if
    your hedgie is used to one), if not, a small water dish works well.

    (4) Cage, bedding, and a den.  The enclosure is up to you, but beware of
    number (1) above.  It should also be big enough -- 2' x 3' is pretty
    much a minimum for a hedgehog.  If yours is smaller -- it's VERY
    temporary, at most.  See section [5.2] for ideas on cages.  For bedding,
    pine or better yet, aspen chips work well -- avoid cedar!  A den can
    be anything from a big piece of plumbing tube to an empty Kleenex box
    with a door cut in one end.

    (5) Playtime.  Play with your new friend as often and as much as you
    want, keeping in mind that your new hedgie will likely tire quickly,
    especially if young, so give your new friend a break at times.  It will
    also help to keep the lights low, and not be too loud -- both of which
    will increase the nervousness of a new hedgehog.

    (6) Expectations.  Your hedgie is going to be nervous and upset over the
    change to a new home.  Hedgies don't like change, and rely mostly on
    sense of smell to know their way around.  Don't be surprised if your
    hedgie gets a bit withdrawn for a while.  It takes time for a hedgie
    to adjust to a new home.

------------------------------

Subject: <4.6> Hedgehog handling / socializing

There's an old joke that goes:

       	Question: How do you pick up a hedgehog?
       	Answer:   Carefully!

Actually the original tends to deal more with the mating habits of our little
friends, but I'm sure you get the point (or would that be points?).

One of the points I had missed in early versions of the FAQ was the need for
handling pet hedgehogs to socialize them with you.  Until recently, this
section has dealt primarily with the technical side of the rather thorny
question of how to handle a hedgehog, rather than why.

Hedgehogs tend to be very nervous by nature and do not enjoy nature's best
eyesight.  Hedgehogs rely primarily on sense of smell.  Their sense of
hearing is a distant second, and their vision is way down the list.  In fact,
vision is generally used mostly as a source of warnings of danger.  Hearing
serves both purposes -- tracking interesting sounds, or warning them of
dangers, and smell is usually used for finding things they are used to.  Keep
all of this in mind when trying to win the heart of a hedgehog.

When you first get a hedgehog as a pet, it is important that your new friend
come to identify your smell with that of a friend.  Because of this reliance
on sense of smell, if you are constantly changing perfumes, or sometimes use
strongly scented items, you are going to have much more difficulty than
normal, but by no means is it an impossible task.

The best way to socialize your hedgie is to spend as much time as you
reasonably can (without over-stressing the hedgehog) and gently hold or play
with him.  Hedgehogs that are thoroughly familiar with their human friends
tend to be a lot friendlier in most cases -- although it depends on the
hedgehog, as it does with any animal with a personality (or should that be
critterality?).

In simple terms, hedgehogs do best with (possibly short amounts of) regular
attention, rather than large periods of infrequent attention.  A few minutes
each day is far better than hours once a week.

It is also important to keep up the contact, to maintain the bond.  Spending
some time with your hedgehog(s) every couple of nights should do the job.
Clearly, doing so almost daily is better, but reality rarely lets you do
this.

One point that I've missed here, until now (my thanks to Lisa Ladouceur for
pointing this out), is how to handle your hedgehog.  Most hedgehogs, at
least, at first, do not like to be patted on their quills.  Just try gently
holding your hedgie, and letting it uncurl in your hands.  Let it explore
around your hands and arms, and it will eventually start to become
comfortable around you as it realizes that you are safe.  Eventually, you can
get to the point of petting most hedgehogs along the back, and some even like
to be scratched in amongst their spines, but, this level of trust can take a
while to develop.

What do you do when you just won't have the chance to spend as much quality
time with the hedgekids as you want, or if you've just gotten a new hedgehog
and want to do everything possible to help get him used to you?  Here is a
tip from Dave Ehrnstein, who, as a fairly large breeder, doesn't have the
time to spend with each and every new hedgehog:

    Another way to acquaint them with your scent is to wear an old T-shirt
    for two days, then put it in their cage.  They will nest under it, and
    your scent will become ``homey'' to them, not threatening.

You should be careful that there are no loose loops of thread on the shirt
(or hairs) that hedgefeet can get caught in (see caution in sections [5.2]
and [9.1]) and you should also at least check on the hedgehog daily, but
otherwise this idea will help acquaint your new friend with your smell, and
settle him into his new home.

Now on to the ``how do I pick up a pincushion with the points all facing
out'' section.

Picking up a hedgehog, or otherwise handling him is difficult, at least until
he gets to know your smell.  Because of this, there is one cardinal rule
about hedgehog handling and that is ``never wear gloves.''  If you do, your
hedgehog will never become used to you, and your smell.  That said, there
are, indeed, times when you have to.  As with any so called rule, there
are exceptions, and using your common sense is the best thing.  Remember,
it's much better to use gloves and take your hedgie out to play, then not to
play at all.

One thing you should do before trying to pick up any hedgehog, is to let your
little friend sniff your bare hand, before you pick him up, that way, he will
come to know the picking up is safe.

The recommended way to pick up a hedgehog is with one hand at each side of
him, then bring your hands gently together to cup him.  Never grasp a
hedgehog in a way that could allow any of your fingers to be caught in the
middle should he decide to roll into a ball.  Being in the middle of a
hedgehog ball is an extremely painful experience -- it's truly astounding
just how strong their muscles are [words of a single, never to be repeated,
unfortunate experience by the editor].

Most hedgehogs, unless really upset, will end up stepping up on your hands as
they come together.  Once on your hands, you can transfer your little friend
to your lap (a towel spread on your lap can help, here), or onto your chest.

Properly handled, from shortly after birth, pet hedgehogs are very friendly,
playful animals that will keep their quills smoothed down, and enjoy being
with people.  Once socialized with you, your hedgehog will be like this any
time you want to play (at least after it has had time to wake up, if you
decide to play during hedgie's naptime).

Are all hedgehogs like this?  No, of course not.  That's the ideal, and it is
something most people will only achieve if they get lucky, and kept up the
right attention, or if they are persistent at trying to win their little
friend over.  The one key thing to remember, above all else, is patience,
patience, patience, and patience!

So you say your hedgehog is a grump?  Fear not, that's not unusual.  I must
admit that Velcro, my first hedgehog was a thoroughly endearing little grump
who took me 4-5 months to win over.  Once I did win him over, though, he was
a real little sweetheart, and would often come to his cage door when he heard
me, to come out and play.

So why are some hedgies so grumpy or seem to be unfriendly, and what are the
reasons?  For the answer, we need to look at the making of our little grumps,
um, er, friends, and how they relate to you.

Keep the noise levels low around hedgies, and preferably the lighting not too
bright.  This will help avoid triggering nervousness.

Remember that, to a hedgehog, you are very large, and cast a huge shadow.
Think of yourself being picked up by something the size of a small
skyscraper!  Move slowly, and do your best not to suggest you might be a
threat.

If you are still at the glove stage, once you have your little friend out,
try to take off the glove and do without it as much as possible.

Remember too, that with hedgehogs, bribery IS considered appropriate.  Treats
are welcome.  Let's face it, your hedgehog is not going to turn you in for
graft!

So what about hardcore cases?  The I-wanna-snuffle-myself-into-a-fit-
and-you-can't-do-anything-about-it type grumps?

The first thing to do is to decide if something is bothering the grumphog.
Often, a problem, like being too cold or not feeling well can be the source
of the excess grumpyness.  Even something like toenails that have become
ingrown are frequent causes of grump syndrome in hedgehogs.

If you've made sure of the basics, here are a series of things (some of which
might be a bit redundant after all the discussions above), for dealing with
these spoil-sports:

    (1) Make sure that the lights are low, that there are not causes for
    discomfort (cold, injuries, mites, etc.), and that there are no major
    disturbances like loud music, etc., nearby.

    (2) Does your hedgehog have a secure feeling den, and comfortable cage,
    or enclosure?  Somewhere a hedgehog can curl up in and feel safe can help
    boost his sense of security.  This doesn't need to be too elaborate.

    (3) Play with him regularly, for 15-20 minutes each day, at around the
    same time of day.  Some hedgies treat this as a battle of wills.  Once he
    knows he's going to come out and play, whether he snuffles his butt off,
    or not, he will knuckle under.  If you let him get the best of you,
    you've lost, and he will know it.  After that, he can do whatever he
    wants, and you are at his mercy.

    (4) Think of your little friend's situation.  Most new hedgehogs are
    still essentially babies.  Here you have a timid little animal which has
    just lost everything it ever knew.  It was recently separated from its
    mother and then from any brothers or sisters that it might have been
    with. Now everything smells different, tastes different, sounds
    different, and this huge creature is grabbing for it.  Needless to say,
    this is a pretty nerve-wracking experience.  This is why patience is so
    important.

    (5) Bribery works.  It can even be fun experimenting to find out what
    treats your hedgie likes.

    (6) Hardcore snufflebutts can sometimes be won over, at least in part,
    by a bath.  Almost every hedgehog will smooth their quills down when in
    water, and you can become the rescuer when extracting him from the
    evil bath.  Some hedgies even actually enjoy baths!  See section [6.5]
    on how to bath your hedgie.

Remember, patience is the key.  It will often take time, sometimes weeks of
patient playing to win over a hedgie, but it is worth it, and it can be done.

Okay, so Spike is coming along fine, he's willing to come out and play, or
sometimes even snuggle, but there are some little habits that are leaving you
a bit unsure of things.  It seems a favorite trick of some hedgehogs to go to
the bathroom just after you pick them up and start to play.  Is this an
attempt on their part to be left alone?  You may be starting to think so, and
that it might work, if it keeps up.

Of course your hedgie is not mistaking you for a litter box, nor is he making
a social commentary on you -- basically, he just can't help himself.  This
particular `habit' is far more common in young hedgehogs who still don't have
as much control over their bodily functions as they will have later on.  It
also appears that in hedgehogs, there is usually a need to go to the bathroom
shortly after waking up, when you combine this with the fact that hedgies
like to go, when on the go, it pretty much covers the causes.

So what is the solution?  Obviously, one necessity is to just keep some
Kleenex or paper towel handy -- it's going to happen at times, no matter
what!  The other thing that can help is when you first wake up your little
friend, give him a minute or two back in his cage to try and do his business
before you really take him out to play.  Of course, there is the wait until
he grows up approach, but just try and resist wanting to play for that long!

For dealing with problem behavior, like biting, see section [6.6].

------------------------------

Subject: <4.7> How can I introduce my hedgehog to my (dog/cat/bird/fish/
               rabbit/etc.) with the least trouble?

In what limited experience I've had, I have seen no problem with interaction
between hedgehogs and other pets -- my wife and I have five cats (Kit &
Caboodle, Oreo, Snickers, and Scrapper) in addition to our group of hedgies.
Velcro always thought the cats would make nice mealtime treats and chased
them whenever possible, while some of the others take little notice of the
cats, other than an occasional duck of the head and a snuffling session.  For
their part, the cats have only shown peaceful curiosity towards the
hedgehogs.  The occasional very careful paw will reach out and almost, but
not quite touch one of the hedgehogs.  The cats seem to know that these
snuffling little armoured tanks are actually animated pincushions that would
hurt if they really connected.  For his part, Velcro omce actually shoved the
largest cat (18+ lbs.!) out of the way with nothing more than a slightly
indignant look from the cat.

Aside from this, I imagine that it will really depend on the personality of
your other pet(s).  I would expect more aggressive cats/dogs to try nipping
at or swatting at a new hedgehog (an action that is unlikely to be repeated
by any animal with the ability to learn from its mistakes).  Some terriers
and other hunting dogs might be an exception here, and might be best kept
separate from hedgehogs for the safety of both parties (not to mention any
humans who try to separate them!)  Hedgehogs are admirably well protected --
the worry is ``how safe are your other pets?''

As long as you supervise the first few encounters between your hedgehog and
your other pets, there `should be' no problem in either direction.  The only
time there should be cause for worry is if one or more of your other pets
could potentially be food in the eyes of your hedgehog (such as pet
mealworms?).  By way of an example of this, I would recommend that you not
introduce your hedgehog to any herps you might have -- it seems that, for
example, hedgehogs enjoy the taste of iguana tail.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


author: Brian MacNamara

subject: Hedgehog FAQ [6/7] - Advanced Topics in Hedgehoggery

text:
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part6
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs

Last-modified: 21 March 2004
Version: 3.60

HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 6 of 7) -- ADVANCED TOPICS IN HEDGEHOGGERY
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara ([email])
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.

This document is copyright 2004 by Brian MacNamara.  See section [0.6]
for authorship information and redistribution rights.  In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.

The basic Hedgehog FAQ has seven parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one.  A complete table of contents for
all seven parts is given below.

Please note:  While my knowledge of hedgehogs has grown (far beyond my
wildest expectations when I began the FAQ), my knowledge is still quite
limited, especially in areas of health care.  I did not write, or verify,
all the information in this FAQ.  I have done my best to include only
accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness
of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that
it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way.  For advice
from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1],
or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian
who is familiar with hedgehogs.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

10. *** Breeding, babies, and advanced issues ***

   <10.1> Breeding
   <10.2> General care for babies
   <10.3> Hand feeding baby hedgehogs
   <10.4> Colours, types, and species

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10. *** Breeding, babies, and advanced issues ***

------------------------------

Subject: <10.1> Breeding

Breeding hedgehogs can be both the most rewarding, and the most
heart-wrenching of endeavors.  Few activities can come close to matching the
wonders and pleasures of having babies, but at the same time the dangers
involved, and problems that can arise are very great.

I'm not going to try and cover all the basics of animal husbandry, here --
that's a topic better left to many books on the subject.  I'm only going to
address hedgehog issues.  Besides, if you don't know the basics of husbandry
and breeding, you should not be considering it -- at least not yet.

Baby hedgehogs are nothing short of addictively cute.  If you think an adult
can steal your heart, beware that a mother being followed by a litter of
adorable little hoglets is many levels of magnitude cuter.  The reason for
this warning is that it can be very easy to fall into the trap of breeding
just to enjoy the babies.  There is an immense responsibility that goes with
breeding, and it should not be undertaken lightly -- these are living,
feeling animals, and that thought must always be at the forefront of your
mind.

If you are going to breed, make very very sure of the following, first:

    (1) That you are willing to risk losing the mother, due to
    complications!

    (2) That you can find good, caring homes for ALL the babies.  This can
    certainly include you, but remember, you may need as many as 8 new
    cages or enclosures to keep the results of one litter!

    (3) If there are complications with the birth, or problems with the
    babies, it might entail some not inconsiderable veterinary bills.

    (4) If mom rejects the babies, you might have to take care of them (a
    very considerable effort), or have them put to sleep.

Okay, you've considered the points, above, and you want to breed your
hedgehog(s).  The following will cover various points of breeding.  For
actual caring for the babies (with or without mom), please see sections
[10.2] and [10.3].

    [Credit for much of what follows is largely thanks to various breeder
    friends that I've met over the past few years, and some of my own,
    minor experiences.  I hope you will forgive me for not listing you by
    name, as the points are `mostly' a blend of all your wisdom! -Ed.]

I would strongly recommend that you seek out an experienced hedgehog breeder
and spend some time talking with him/her.  I don't have the experience or the
space to cover all the information that you really should know.  Also, having
someone you can turn to with questions will prove more than invaluable.

First, a few guidelines for deciding who, of prickly nature, to put together
for the romantic event.  To breed hedgehogs, obviously, the minimum you need
is a male and a female, but there are many other points to consider.
Breeding of ill tempered hedgehogs is not a good idea, breeding of related
hedgehogs can also be a bad idea.  Choose the hedgehogs to be bred with some
care.  This can be for colour, temperament, or other values, but don't be
indiscriminant.

Females should not be bred before at least 5 months of age, as they have not
finished growing and maturing themselves.  Once bred, the hormonal changes
will basically stop further maturation, and the drain on their metabolisms
caused by having babies while still trying to grow themselves, can have
permanent adverse affects on their health.

Males, too, should not be bred before about 4-5 months, although the side
effects are not as problematic for them.  The biggest problem is that they
just may not be up to the task, at least as well as they should be.

Also, don't breed a female for the first time, if she is beyond 1.5 years
old.  If you do, there is a very good chance that the bones in her pelvic
area will have fused, such that she will not be able to have the babies.  If
you are not sure how old she is, but suspect she may be beyond 1.5, don't
risk it!

There is also a point at about 3.5 years of age, when many females become
menopausal.  Breeders will often note that litter sizes may taper off as this
age is approached.

Finally, after each litter, it is important to give your female a break to
recover from the effort.  I would not recommend any more than 3 litters per
year.  Beyond that is going to place an unnecessary drain on the female, and
affect her health (and her ability to produce and care for ongoing litters).
More than this number of litters per year really suggests that you are not
breeding hedgehogs, but trying to run a production line.

Breeding hedgehogs is not difficult, but it does come with a wide variety of
problems.  Probably most notable is that mother hedgehogs will tend to eat
the babies if disturbed at all for a few days prior to, and for up to about
10 days after the birth.  This can be heartbreaking and very frustrating to
would be breeders.

By our (human) standards, this sort of thing is unthinkable, and very hard to
accept.  Before you think too badly of hedgehogs for this, take a look at
their natural environment.  In the wild, any kind of disturbance is all but
certainly a predator that WILL eat the babies (mom can and will try to defend
them, but in a burrow, there's only so much she can hope to do).  Because
finding enough food and energy to develop the babies is a very difficult
thing in the rather harsh conditions in which our little friends are native,
mother hedgehogs cannot afford to lose all of that.  In the end, it's a
matter of survival to ``reabsorb'' the babies, in this way, then to lose all
of that to a passing predator.  If all are lost, try again in 3 months.  If
losing litters continues to happen, it might be that the female is just not
cut out to be a mom, and it would be better not to breed her.

So, for the actual amourous encounter, what is needed?  Actually, not that
much.  Simply put the two loverhogs together, sit back, and watch the fun.
Male hedgehogs know what to do (females do as well, but will often play hard
to get).  Males will usually squeak very loudly and plaintively when they
encounter a female -- and the actual courtship antics are usually VERY
entertaining.

There are opinions both ways on whose cage (hers or his) to use, but most
breeders seem to prefer to use the male's cage, under the assumption that the
female will be more receptive, and the male will feel less out of place and
more inclined to do his `duty.'  It is wise to remove as many items from the
cage as is reasonable, while they are together, such as wheels, extra dens,
and items that make good hiding places for a female who wants to defend her
honour.  Even so, you can pretty much count on the entire cage being severely
`redecorated' frequently and often!

Hedgehogs DO have a `heat,' or estrus cycle, and are not entirely induced
ovulators, as had been previously thought.  The cycle is typically about 9
days on, followed by 7 days off, but is not absolute.

In order to catch the cycle, many breeders will put the male and female
together for about 4-5 days, separate them for 4 days, then put them back
together for another 4-5 days.  Others breeders have suggested using a single
10-day period, while others still will use only a single 3-day get together,
observing the female to see if she is responsive.  Experience and trial and
error will likely be your best guides here.  If you have spoken to a breeder
with experience, try the schedule that they use, or one of the schedules
mentioned here.  In most cases, the pair will get along quite well, but do
watch out as sometimes fights will occur.

Once the romance has passed, it is now time to separate the pair.  Now that
mating is over, the father to be, can drop out of the picture, as he plays no
further role in what follows.  Keeping the male in with the female when the
babies arrive is virtually guaranteed to have them both eat the babies.

Is your female pregnant?  Well, this is another place that I can only offer
theory.  Personally, I have gotten it wrong (both ways) far more often than
right!  As you might guess, it can be quite difficult to tell if a hedgehog
is pregnant, but there are some clues to look for.  Probably one of the best
methods is to weigh her every few days, and watch for a weight gain.
Obviously, this goes part and parcel with an increase in appetite.  Next, if
you are very careful, and gentle, you can palpate her abdomen, and you `may'
be able to feel the babies as she gets closer to the birthing date.
Achieving good results with this is very difficult, even for experienced
breeders, so don't be dismayed if you can't tell anything from it.  Another
sign to watch out for is that her teats or nipples (which run in two rows
along the sides of her tummy, will become more enlarged, and more obvious.

As time gets closer to the birth, typically within about the last week, there
are a few more signs.  One of these to look for is the odour from her urine
often becomes noticably stronger.  She may also exhibit signs of `nesting'
where she may make piles of bedding material, or even block up her den
entrance.  She will also likely lose appetite in the day or so prior to the
babies being born.

In spite of these signs, it's easy to be wrong in thinking she may be
pregnant when she is not, or that she is not pregnant when she is.  Trust me!
This is one place I have AMPLE personal experience to speak from!  Because of
this, I strongly recommend that you always assume that she IS pregnant until
WELL past her last possible due date.

Speaking of the due date, the gestation period for hedgehogs is approximately
35 days.  I have heard of births happening from about 33 days through to
about 42, so the 35 is not absolute.  Most will be within the 34-37 day
range, however.

This generally brings us to the end of the actual breeding topic.  I will add
a few further comments, here, as they relate to the mother, and health
issues, but I would direct you to section [10.2] on general care for the
babies which really takes up where this description leaves off.

After the birth, mom's appetite will likely skyrocket.  Give her all the
high-quality food she wants.  This is not a time for diets, as she is trying
to produce enough milk for her hungry hoglets.  She will also go through a
lot more fresh water than normal.  Just be careful about disturbances as you
go into her cage to feed or water her.  If mom appears overly exhausted, or
wobbly, extra vitamins or supplements, such as KMR (Kitten Milk Replacement)
may help.  Also treats (not too much) of cottage cheese or sour cream may
help keep her calcium levels up, as she produces large quantities of hedgehog
milk.

The good news is that there really isn't much for you to do -- it's largely a
case of mom knows best.

Following the birth, keep an eye on the mother for possible complications.
If mom either loses the babies (not that unusual) or seems very inactive,
possibly lying out of her den, and/or not eating, it may be that she has
suffered a problem during birth, or that one or more babies are still caught
inside her.  If you think this might be the case, get her to a veterinarian,
quickly -- especially if she lost her babies, and is acting like this.  There
is much a vet can do to help in a situation like this, but it is imperitive
that you get her there quickly.  The longer the problem exists, the greater
the likelihood that you will lose the mother in addition to the babies.

------------------------------

Subject: <10.2> General care for babies

As the due date approaches, mom will often stop eating the day before, and
will also often go into nesting mode, and may go as far as to wall up her den
against access.  It is very important that you do not disturb her for a
couple of days before she is due, and for several days after the babies
arrive.  Doing so will often result in the babies being eaten [10.1].

A couple of days before you expect that she is due, it is a good idea to give
her cage a thorough cleaning (without stressing her too much), as you will
not be able to, again, for several days.

The babies will `usually' arrive during the night, and may be announced by a
slight scream or squeak, although I've never heard this, myself.  You will
probably be able to hear the babies squeak from the nest, after they have
been born.

Here are some guidelines on dealing with new hoglets.  In general, the two
main things are to avoid disturbing them (and mom) and that mother knows
best.

As a reminder, the gestation period is approximately 35 days.

You should avoid disturbing a pregnant female or new mother for about 5 days
before and 5-10 days after the birth.  During this time, be careful and quiet
during feeding and cleanup.

The babies will usually announce their presence with squeaks.  When you hear
this -- it's time to go into tiptoe mode.  The babies can be born over a
period of several hours, and maintaining absolute quiet during this time is
important.

Mom should have a safe, secure-feeling den to have the babies in.  This will
help her feel safe and relaxed.

For the first 5-10 days, don't peek!  And I mean don't peek!!!  After this
time, depending on how mom reacts, you can start handling the babies.  If you
do want to check on the babies, do it when mom is out eating, or better yet,
lure her out with a treat, and remove her from the cage for a romp while you
check on the babies.  But do wait until the babies are at least 3-5 days old
before doing this.  Take your cues from mom.  If she gets hostile, vocal, or
visibly upset, by your presence, don't push it.  Some mothers are very secure
and don't mind leaving the babies alone for a few minutes, while others get
frantic when separated.

Make sure that mom has as much food as she wants.  She will eat a LOT more
than usual at this time.  You might even want to supplement her diet with
some cottage cheese, sour cream, or the like, to help boost her calcium
input.  This can be especially important for very young (e.g., accidental)
mothers, who are still growing themselves, and who may end up drawing on
their own calcium reserves, that they need for bones and teeth, to produce
enough milk.

If mom does not seem to be eating, put her food dish near the doorway to her
nest box or tube -- she may be reluctant to leave the babies.

Once the babies are born, you might want to pile up the wood shavings under
the end of the tube or nest box where the doorway is, to prevent any babies
from rolling out by mistake.  Generally this is not a problem, but if you
find a baby outside the nest, you might want to consider doing this.

If you see a baby out of the nest and away from the rest (some mothers will
take their babies out of the nest, but will keep them together -- this is
normal and depends on the mother), you can put it back with the others by
using a small spoon.  Remember not to touch the baby, or mom is liable to
reject it.

If mom seems to be rejecting a baby, keep trying to put it back with the
others (using the spoon method).  If the practise continues, and the baby
appears not to be getting any mother's milk, you may want to consider hand
feeding the rejected baby [10.3].

Babies will begin to venture from the nest when 2-3 weeks old about the same
time they start sampling mom's food.

Babies are weaned at 4-6 weeks.  They start to eat solid food around the 3rd
week.  If the food you are using is quite hard, you can offer some that has
been dampened to make it softer to help get the babies started.

Babies raised in a cage with a litter box will usually learn to use the
litter box (especially if mom uses it).  If mom doesn't use a litter box, you
might need to do a little coaxing (scooping up some of the droppings and
adding them to the litter box).

Remember to separate the babies by sex [10.2] after they are weaned so you
don't accidently start on yet another generation.  Make sure you do this
before they reach 8-weeks of age!  Make sure that they are eating solid food
and drinking on their own.

Above all, if you lose any or all the babies, or if Mom happens to eat any or
all, don't let it bother you too much.  This sort of thing, especially the
latter, is very hard for people to deal with but it is perfectly natural for
hedgehogs.

Some of the reasons why mother hedgehogs might kill, eat, or reject their
babies are as follows:

They were disturbed.  In the wild, almost any kind of disturbance means a
predator is there and it will almost certainly eat the babies.  Rather than
lose the very hard won nutrients that she put into producing the babies,
mother hedgehogs will `reabsorb' them herself in the hopes of being able to
use it for another litter later on.  This seems very harsh, but it's only a
reflection of the environment that they developed in.

Mom thinks something's wrong.  If mom thinks one or more babies are not right
(deformed or if they otherwise have problems that she can detect), she may
kill or `reabsorb' them with the understanding that they wouldn't have
survived long anyway.

Mom's not secure.  If mom feels conditions are not right for bringing up
babies (not enough food, or not the right nutrients/vitamins/etc.) she may
feel that they are not likely to survive, or that she won't be able to
provide for all of them.

Mom's too young or immature.  If mom is too young, or often with her first
litter, she may just not know what to do, or can't deal with the babies.
This doesn't necessarily mean she will be a bad mother -- I've heard of many
who after losing a first litter, or even a second, went on to be excellent
moms with later litters.  If a female eats more than two of her litters, it's
probably not a good idea to keep trying.

Again, if worst comes to worst, and you lose some or all the babies, don't
let it get you down.  Just concentrate on what you do have.

As the babies grow, various events will begin to take place.  This is a very
rough timeline on baby African pigmy hedgehog growth:

Early on the `birth' quills will be replaced by the first set of baby quills.

The eyes will open by around the week 3.

At about week 3-4 the babies will begin to start tasting solid food.  You can
help things out here by offering dry food which has been dampened to make it
softer, or by using some canned food.  Generally, though, most babies will
manage very well in very short order -- it IS food after all, and these are
starving baby hedgeHOGs!

By about week 6, the babies should be well on their way to being weaned.
Some will hold out until week 7, but by then they should all be on solid
food.  No doubt much to mom's relief!

Finally, by the time the babies reach week 8, they need to be separated from
mom -- at least you need to separate any males, or you risk both mom, and any
female babies becoming pregnant -- neither of which are in any condition to
handle it at this stage!

------------------------------

Subject: <10.3> Hand feeding baby hedgehogs

One of the most difficult times for hedgehog owners comes if a new mother
hedgehog rejects some or all of her babies, or otherwise can't manage to
provide for all of them.  Unfortunately, it is fairly common for hedgehogs to
eat their babies [10.1], and/or reject them, especially if it is a first
litter, or if the mother was disturbed (mother hedgehogs need considerable
peace and quiet).  Many hedgehog owners are bothered quite badly by these
actions on the part of the hedgehog, as they are extremely foreign concepts
to humans, but they are (sadly) perfectly natural and normal amongst
hedgehogs.

Before deciding to hand feed, try returning rejected babies to the nest
(using a spoon to avoid getting your scent on them), or if possible by
fostering with another mother who is nursing (rub the babies in bedding from
that mother's cage to have them smell familiar).  Many breeders will
purposely breed two females at the same time for this purpose, though I
caution that fostering does not always work.

All that having been said, what do you do if you decide you need to hand feed
baby hedgehogs?  The first thing is to convince yourself that sleep is an
undesirable luxury, as you will be feeding the babies every 2-3 hours (yes,
that means night and day) for about 3+ weeks.  If you're still up to trying,
what do you feed them, and how?

I'll address the easy part first -- how.  For this, among the best items are
plastic syringes (without needles), eye-droppers, or plastic pipettes (the
type with the suction bulb at the end).  The idea is to be able to provide a
minute but reasonably available stream of 'milk' to the baby in a controlled
manner.

Next is the question of what to feed them.  Generally, the rule about
avoiding or limiting cows' milk for adult hedgehogs also applies to babies,
and maybe even more so.  That having been said, I have heard of one little
tyke who wouldn't drink anything else, and at last word was doing just fine.

Robyn Gorton, who was studying hedgehogs in New Zealand, passed along the
following information on caring for babies.  Although her work is with
European hedgehogs, the information is quite applicable to African pigmy
hedgehogs as well.

   I find that caring for the young is simple enough as long as you have a
   good milk to feed them.  I have discovered that sheeps' milk is the
   closest in composition to hhog milk and acts as an excellent substitute
   when mixed with raw egg.  It may for the first few days cause swelling of
   the anus, but as soon as they start teething (3 weeks) you can add mashed
   banana for fibre and their problems clear up.  It's a very high protein
   diet but one must watch for a vitamin B deficiency which can be caused
   by too much raw egg.  I had my two hoglets suckling on a syringe for the
   first week and 1/2 until their teeth erupted (this takes three days for a
   full set to emerge!!) then simply start using a saucer and they will
   naturally feed from it themselves.

I've also heard of using goats' milk, similar to what Robyn suggested above,
though I trust her research as far sheeps' milk being closer to hedgehog
milk.  I do need to caution, however, about the use of raw eggs, as they can
cause problems of their own [6.2] -- this, however, may be one situation
where bending those rules is worthwhile.

What do you do if you don't have a friendly goat or sheep, or can't easily
find sheeps' or goats' milk?  Many pet stores and pet supply stores carry KMR
(Kitten Milk Replacement).  It's usually in powdered form, which makes it
handy for the small quantities you will need.  I've seen quite a few articles
from breeders who have used this with great success, some go on to recommend
that most hedgehog breeders should keep a container of KMR around, just in
case.

I've also heard of Esbilac (human baby formula) being used successfully, to
offer yet another option.  Anja van der Werf pointed out to me that when you
are trying to use human formula, make sure it is soy-based rather than based
on cows' milk.

One thing to watch out for in feeding baby hedgehogs, is that after each
feeding you must stimulate them to defecate and urinate, otherwise their
bladder and bowel will swell up and can even burst.  To do this, simply
stroke along their tummy towards the anus, which simulates a mother licking
and grooming her babies.  You can also do this with a warm damp tissue or
cloth.  The idea isn't to squeeze anything out, just to stimulate the baby to
do it's business.

Remember that hand raising baby hedgehogs is very difficult, and if you try
and meet with tragedy, remember that you gave them much more of a chance than
they would have had without you.  Whatever happens, don't give up and decide
that hedgehogs are bad, or that it's not worth having hoglets -- it's just
hedgehog nature, and next time may well be nothing short of magical.

------------------------------

Subject: <10.4> Colours, types, and species

As was noted back in [3.1], the hedgehogs kept as pets throughout much of the
world are a hybrid of Algerian and White-Bellied hedgehogs.  Most of the
colours, and variations that we see can be traced to these two species, and
many are the result of the interbreeding of the various original species.

Of course, Long-eared hedgehogs are also kept as pets in various places, but
I regret that I don't have enough knowledge to offer any useful comments on
them.  The same applies to those other species which are occasionally kept as
pets.  As a result, most of this section will focus on the
Algerian/White-Bellied hybrid type.

At last check there were roughly 100 colour variations known, and others
which were hypothisized.  So far, this is all without mutations being a
factor.  Here are some examples of hedgehog colours.

White-Bellied Hedgehog Colours

    Dominant Colours:

       	Salt & Pepper
       	Dark Grey
       	Grey
       	Chocolate
       	Brown
       	Cinnamon
       	Dark Cinnicot
       	Black-Eyed Cinnicot
       	Ruby-Eyed Cinnicot
       	Champagne
       	Apricot

    Snowflake Colours:

       	Silver - the recessive of Salt & Pepper
       	Silver Charcoal - the recessive of Dark Grey or Double rec. of Grey
       	Charcoal - the recessive of Grey
       	Chocolate Chip - the recessive of Chocolate
       	Brown Snowflake - the recessive of Brown or double rec. Choc. Chip
       	(Cinnamon) Snowflake - the recessive of Cinnamon
       	Silver-Cinnamon Snowflake - the double recessive of Cinnamon
       	Dark Cinnacot Snowflake - the recessive of Dark Cinnacot or the
       	                          double recessive of Black-Eyed Cinnacot
       	Black-Eyed Cinnacot Snowflake - the recessive of Black-Eyed Cinnacot
       	Ruby-Eyed Cinnacot Snowflake - the recessive of Ruby-Eyed Cinnacot
       	Champagne Snowflake - the recessive of Champagne or double recessive
       	                      of Ruby-Eyed Cinnacot
       	Apricot Snowflake - the recessive of Apricot
       	Pale Apricot Snowflake - the double recessive of Apricot

White Colours:

    The White category comprises those animals that possess almost 100%
    solid white spines.

    The few banded spines that these hedgehogs have are localized to the
    forehead area, with a few possible across the remainder of the
    back. These few banded spines on the back, however, should count no
    more than 10. Any more than this and it is categorized as a Snowflake.

    White is a dilute (prime) of the recessive snowflake. Although not all
    are listed here, there is a total of 15 White possibilities in the
    White-Bellied colour spectrum.

       	Platinum - the dilute of Salt & Pepper
       	Silver Charcoal White - the dilute of Dark Grey
       	Charcoal White - the dilute of Grey
       	Chocolate White - the dilute of Chocolate
       	Brown White - the dilute of Brown
       	White - the dilute of Cinnamon
       	Albino - Albinos are unique due to the total lack of pigmentation.

Algerian Colours:

       	Black Algerian
       	Dark Grey Algerian
       	Grey Algerian
       	Chocolate Algerian
       	Brown Algerian
       	Cinnamon Algerian
       	Champagne Algerian

Just a reminder that this is not a comprehensive list of colours, but is
intended more as a guide.  Also, when breeding for colours, it is imperative
that you make sure you do not lose sight of temperament, and basics of good
husbandry in pursuit of a colour goal -- doing so is not gaining anyone, or
any hedgehog anything.

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