subject: Hedgehog FAQ [4/7] - Hedgehogs as pets

text:
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part4
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs

Last-modified: 21 March 2004
Version: 3.60

HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 4 of 7) -- HEDGEHOGS AS PETS
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara ([email])
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.

This document is copyright 2004 by Brian MacNamara.  See section [0.6]
for authorship information and redistribution rights.  In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.

The basic Hedgehog FAQ has seven parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one.  A complete table of contents for
all seven parts is given in part I.

Please note:  While my knowledge of hedgehogs has grown (far beyond my
wildest expectations when I began the FAQ), my knowledge is still quite
limited, especially in areas of health care.  I did not write, or verify,
all the information in this FAQ.  I have done my best to include only
accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness
of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that
it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way.  For advice
from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1],
or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian
who is familiar with hedgehogs.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

5. *** Things you'll need ***

   <5.1> What will I need to take care of my new hedgehog?
   <5.2> Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?
   <5.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?
   <5.4> Litter boxes and what kind of litter should I use?
   <5.5> I'm having problems litter-training my hedgehog.  What should
         I be doing?
   <5.6> Hedgehogs and wheels
   <5.7> Making your own wheel
   <5.8> Any suggestions on toys?

6. *** Basic hedgehog care and training ***

   <6.1> How can I best hedgehogproof my home?
   <6.2> What should I feed my hedgehog?
   <6.3> Commercial hedgehog foods and nutrition
   <6.4> What are good treats?
   <6.5> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping nails?
   <6.6> Biting and nipping
   <6.7> HELP, my hedgehog is LOST! (or Hedgehog Hide-and-Seek)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

5. *** Things you'll need ***

------------------------------

Subject: <5.1> What will I need to take care of my new hedgehog?

A brief list of things needed right away is covered in section [4.5], and is
meant as a getting started list.  This section, and the ones that follow, are
meant to provide information in greater detail.

There are only a few things that are essential to keep a pet hedgehog.
Basically a warm place to live (either a large cage/pen/aquarium, or a room
-- if you want to let your hedgehog run free), a food dish (preferably one
that is not easy to tip over), a water bottle, such as for Guinea pigs,
(water dishes can tend to become soiled and baby hedgehogs can easily drown
in them, but adults often like them), and last but not least, something big
enough for your hedgehog to hide in as a den.  Of course food, water and
other treats are a given!

It is also a good idea to have a shallow litter box or pan (although not all
hedgehogs seem inclined to use them), and some type of bedding (aspen
shavings, clean straw, etc., but NOT cedar [5.3]).

An exercise wheel [5.6] and [5.7] (big enough for a hedgehog) is also
strongly recommended -- especially for hedgehogs that don't have the run of
the house.  Hedgehogs tend to be surprisingly energetic, and need the chance
to use up some of this energy.  In addition, it appears more and more that
hedgehogs who have and use wheels live much longer and generally seem not to
come down with some of the more common serious ailments, such as Fatty Liver
Disease.  Because of this, I am quickly reaching the opinion that a proper
wheel is more of a necessity than a luxury.  Given how easy (and even fun) it
is to make a wheel, there really is no excuse for not having one.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.2> Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?

This is largely a matter of choice, yours and theirs.  Some hedgehog owners
wouldn't dream of caging their prickly little friends, while some breeders
use large cat carriers to keep their hoards in (one hedgehog, one carrier).

I personally use large wire cages that were intended for medium to large dogs
as homes for my hedgehogs.  These cages measure about 2' wide x 3' deep x
2.5' high (frankly I wouldn't put a dog bigger than a Chihuahua in something
this size, but the labels claim they were designed for collies and similar
sized dogs!).

I should point out that organizations, such as VEZ [2.6], recommend ``one
square meter (approximately 1 sq. yard) of floorspace for [each] hedgehog.''
This is a good rule of thumb, since hedgies are not as small as hamsters or
gerbils, and do need space to roam in.  The alternative is to give them a
good play time, each night, to roam about a larger area under supervision.

You should be careful to make sure the grating in the cage you use leaves
narrow enough holes that your hedgehog can't get out, or even get his head
wedged in between the wires.  Chicken wire is probably not a very safe
choice.  Hedgehogs will often attempt to escape with an astounding amount of
vigor and can be quite single minded about doing so.  Younger hedgehogs can
easily get out of cages with openings between the wires as small as 1/2''
(1.5 cm) -- trust me on this, Sprocket earned the middle name Houdini for
just this achievement, while Pocus would gleefully climb to the top of the
cage looking for even the smallest niche to squeeze through.

Probably the most cost effective cage system I'm aware of is to use the large
clear plastic bins (with lids) that look like giant Tupperware containers,
and are available inexpensively from most hardware and department stores
these days.  Drill plenty of holes in the top (small enough that a hedgehog
won't fit through, but large enough to provide lots of air), or even along
the sides, towards the top, and you have a very easy to clean cage, that is
also easy to get at to get your hedgie out.

The best part of the plastic bin idea is that, if you find ones that are not
big enough, just use two, or three, or create a whole complex of them.  Using
inexpensive plastic plumbing pipes and fittings, you can create a hedgehog
palace in a short time.  Just beware to make sure tunnels slope at an angle
that hedgehogs can manage comfortably.

Skewer lives in one such plastic bin that was far too low to give clearance
for his wheel.  Since leaving the top off was a guaranteed escape in the
making, we solved the problem by cutting out a section of the lid, and
putting another small, but deep, plastic bin over it, glued to the larger
lid.  This dome roof covers his wheel nicely, and ensures he only wanders
(escapes from the cage) when it's intended (i.e., gets out for playtime).

Bedding, such as aspen shavings [5.3], is recommended in any cage, and most
importantly, some sort of place to hide is needed.  Alternately, you can use
astroturf, or something like non-clumping cat litter [5.4] (make sure it's
not dusty), or even epoxy coated aquarium stones (some sort of soft bed area
is recommended, though).  Do watch out for the pieces of litter or bedding
getting caught in sensitive places as mentioned in sections [5.4] and [9.1].

The most frequently recommended den is a section of 4'' (or 6'' for larger
hedgehogs) diameter PVC (plastic) plumbing pipe.  You can get this at almost
any hardware or plumbing store for a couple of dollars.

For a home, or den, I have used a variety of items.  For Velcro I used two
wicker bread baskets (about 4'' x 6'' and 2-3'' deep) tied securely together
with a door cut towards one end (about 3'' x 3'').  Velcro preferred this
over either the PVC pipe home, or a hollow log, however, Popeye, who
inherited Velcro's cage and den won't have anything to do with it, preferring
to sleep under a hedgebag (a cloth bag with no seams).  Pocus, however,
preferred the PVC pipe or especially a hollow log, and wouldn't have anything
to do with the basket (except as a toy -- Pocus tossed it like a seal with a
ball).  Hedgehogs *can* be fickle!  For Quibble, Quiver and Pepper, who live
together, we use a stackable plastic bin, turned upside down, which provides
(almost) enough space for three plump hedgebutts to snuggle together at
naptime.

A word of caution about using old socks or cloth with a loose weave to it:

    Don't use anything fabric for them to hide in.  I did have an old sock...
    Koosh liked to climb inside it, but the vet told me of an instance where
    a hedgehog got his leg caught in a thread, tried to get out, only made it
    worse, and the thread ended up slicing through her flesh to the bone.  He
    said he was able to save the leg, though.
    --  Kathleen Close

If you're going to use an aquarium, I would not recommend anything less that
a 20 gallon size, and preferably larger, as a basic home for a hedgehog --
they are much too active for anything less, and small enclosures will quickly
lead to an overweight and unhealthy hedgehog.

Cages at the large end of being suitable for Guinea pigs or rabbits are
likely fine.  Keep in mind that hedgehogs like to explore, and they are great
escape artists.  They can climb anything they can get their claws hooked
into, and by rolling into a ball and leaning forward, they can manage to get
down quite safely from virtually any height that didn't need a long ladder to
get them up to.

Tammy Baer sent in the following, interesting twist on the pet carrier home.
I think this has some real merit for people who currently use a carrier, and
want to give their little friends a better quantity of space to live in.

    Each hedgie has a large dog kennel as a cage, but not in the traditional
    way.  I took the cage apart and placed the top upside down and face to
    face with the bottom.  That way the top half of the entrance meets the
    bottom and they have twice the room to roam.  I use two clamps on either
    side to keep the halves together, and they overlap just enough that
    there's no gap for little feet between halves.  They still have their
    exercise room at night, but if I ever have to leave them for a couple of
    days I know they're just fine.  One of the great advantage to using the
    kennels is cleaning is a snap as bedding and even messes just wipe out.
    The sides are smooth and not easy to climb keeping adventurous hedgies
    inside.  This only works if you have nothing for them to climb that is
    close to the edge.  I found Zoe was fond of making what seemed like
    impossible jumps to get out.  The cage is also very open and low enough
    to give excellent ventilation for good breathing.
    -- Tammy Baer

The point about not having climbable items in this kind of cage (in fact, any
open topped cage, needs some stressing.  Hedgehogs are very adept at
escaping, and they are quite able to pile things against the side of a cage
to get out.  I've seen it done, and I've heard more stories on this than I
care to admit.  ;-)

If you are not certain the place you are trying to keep your hedgehog in is
warm enough to keep him from going into hibernation [7.3], you might want to
consider placing a heating pad (on its LOWEST setting) under the part of the
pen where your hedgehog sleeps.  Make sure your hedgehog is not going to come
directly into contact with the heating pad, and that he has the ability to
get to an area away from it, should it be too warm for him.

If your hedgehog gets too cool, you risk a number of problems, including
pneumonia.  Pneumonia can be especially bad, since you may not know he has it
and even if it clears up, the effects of scarring on the lungs can result in
death sometime later, when things otherwise appear perfectly fine.

Other suggestions from Katherine Long are to use heating elements intended
for lizards, or those for keeping germinating seeds warm.

    Ambergris much prefers to sleep under a thick towel rather than in
    her pipe.  Actually the towel is draped over a half hollow log and
    the pipe on top of the pad that is on top of the lizard warmer pad.
    She crawls between the towel and the pad cover, in preference to
    anywhere else.
    -- Katherine Long

I have also received suggestions of caution from Kirby J. Kerr, about using
heat rocks as designed for lizards as they are quite prone to overheating,
and generally erratic behavior.  In other words, do be careful when using
these products.

Another idea for keeping hedgies warm is:

    There are ceramic reptile heaters that are similar to light bulbs
    (but give off no light).  They screw into a regular light socket
    and can be positioned to radiate heat into the cage.  They run
    about $25 mail-order, $40 retail, and come in various wattages.  If
    you want to add a thermostat, it gets pricier.
    -- Christine Porter

NOTE: When using these ``heat bulbs'' you must only use them in a ceramic
light socket.  My thanks to Ron Adrezin for this caution, and the following:

    The company that makes the heat bulbs also sells ceramic sockets with a
    clip at the bottom so that it may be attached to the cage.  I also use
    baggie ties on the clip to make absolutely sure that it cannot fall over
    and start a fire.
    -- Ron Adrezin

Here are some other ideas that show just how imaginative people can be when
it comes to dealing with hedgehogs.  This next idea was actually something
created for keeping a too-small European hedgehog warm enough to avoid
hibernation, until he could pack on enough weight to survive the ordeal, but
it would work equally well for pets.

    [I created a] warmer - it was a biscuit tin inside which were 2 x 15
    watt pygmy bulbs, in series. (In series to reduce the heat output and
    lengthen the life).  It was just detectably warm to the touch after an
    hour on the kitchen table.

    Another way, this time using less electrical engineering, would be to
    use one of those electric germination trays that you get in garden
    shops, they are typically about 10 watts (i.e. close to what I get
    with my 2 bulbs in series) and of course they are built to be
    waterproof and are readily available.  If you worry about water-logging
    from rain or urine, it would do just as well upside-down, heat (or
    rather, hot air) rises.
    -- Michael Bell

If your room temperature doesn't get too cool, you may be able to make do
with an idea like this:

    My daughter has come up with a neat idea to keep our heggies pretty warm.
    She has made them sleeping bags out of fleece and lined it with thin
    thermal material.
    -- Mary Novak

Just beware that there aren't any loose threads (or hairs) that can get
caught around busy hedgie legs.

Feel free to be inventive when it comes to keeping your hedgehog warm during
the cooler months of the year.  As long as there is a warm area where your
hedgehog's den is, and you haven't created a fire hazard or some other
impending disaster, you can pretty much use your imagination when it comes to
impromptu heaters.

It's imperative that your pet hedgehogs stay warm during the winter.
Hedgehogs will go into hibernation [7.3] if not kept warm, and if they don't
receive enough hours of light, and this can have disasterous consequences.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?

In most cases the answer is maybe.  In addition to wood shavings generally
making for a more comfortable place to root and burrow around in, many
hedgehogs are not overly particular as to where they defecate.  Using
shavings makes cleaning up after them quite a bit easier.

I have heard of a few cases where hedgehogs were allergic to wood shaving
bedding, but these have been relatively uncommon cases.  In all the cases
I've heard of, the hedgehog has experienced what appears to be a bloody nose
most nights while roaming about its enclosure.  The solution was to use a
more natural bedding (closer to their natural habitat -- for example, real
dirt and grass).  Another possibility might be to increase the humidity, but
the best solution is to switch from using wood shavings.

I have also seen numerous warnings against using cedar shavings, especially
for baby or young hedgehogs where the strong aroma can actually overpower and
even kill them.  Do not use cedar!

The ``Safe Beddings FAQ'' now exists and is posted to the rec.pets Usenet
Newsgroup on a monthly basis.  It is also available via the WWW at:
    http://www.aracnet.com/~seagull/faq/beddingfaq.shtml

My thanks to Rick Russell for the original pointer to it, and to Christine
Porter for the pointer to the new address.

I have to admit that, in 1994, when I acquired Velcro at 8 months of age, he
came in a pet carrier complete with a bedding of cedar shavings and was none
the worse for wear from it (though he also lived in a very well ventilated
cage).  Since then I have used pine shavings, aspen shavings, Yesterdays News
(recycled paper cat litter), and astroturf.

It now appears that pine, also being an aromatic softwood, `can' cause many
of the same effects as cedar.  While generally not as strong as cedar, it is
better to opt for aspen or other non-aromatic woods.  Personally, I believe
that pine, as long as it isn't that strongly odoured (isn't very resinous) is
an okay choice for bedding in open cages (as opposed to tanks).  Strong
smelling pine shavings, however, are not a good choice for a bedding
material.

The rule of thumb for any bedding material is, if it has a noticeable scent,
it probably isn't terribly safe.

I have recently been in touch with Gerald McKiness, who had lost five of his
hedgehogs to the use of pine shavings -- the cause being borne out by the
necropsies that were performed.  After switching away from using pine, he has
had no further losses.  Here are some of the details about the symptoms:

    Our first casualty was a hamster. A pet of about 3 yrs. of age.  He died
    after about 3 weeks to a month of respiratory distress and digestive
    failure.  My hedgehogs began dying about a year later. The symptoms
    always started with a loss of appetite, then loss of mobility in the
    hindquarters.  They would have a wheeze to the breathing.  The
    excretions would be a bright green.  In about three weeks, despite
    everything, bottle feeding, antibiotic injections, veterinary care,
    they died.

    The necropsies would all show respiratory distress, fluid in the lungs,
    liver distress, and NO PATHOGENS.
    -- Gerald McKiness

While aspen shavings do not have what some people consider the pleasant cedar
or pine scent, nor some of the insect (mite) repelling qualities of cedar,
everything I have seen strongly urges against the use of cedar and also pine
bedding for hedgehogs (and other small animals).

Aspen is, unfortunately, more expensive than either cedar or pine, but the
safety factor is paramount.  If you are unable to find aspen, and are using
pine, make sure you do so in a well ventilated cage or pen, not one that is
enclosed with limited airflow, as this will help limit the dangers.  For
cedar, the answer is simply to avoid using it.

Mike McGary has the following words of wisdom on a further advantage of using
aspen shavings:

    One of the benefits of aspen shavings is that they are digestible.
    This can prevent problems resulting from eating the bedding (our
    babies have all eaten some bedding).

Another side effect of wood is that shavings of most kinds involve quite a
bit of dust which can have unpleasant side effects on small lungs.  Aspen,
which appears to be shredded rather than chipped, seems to be less dusty and
much better than pine or cedar.

For those of you who want an alternative to wood shavings of any kind,
especially for those who might have allergies themselves to the bedding,
Kathleen Close passed along the following idea, courtesy of her veterinarian:

    Use terrarium lining or astroturf.  It's much cheaper in the long run.
    He suggested buying two lengths, washing them about every 3 days, and
    while one is drying, put the second one in.

After trying out the astroturf idea (make sure it's the newer, soft, almost
carpet-like astroturf, not the older tinsel-like plastic grass), I wound up
wondering about the edges where it seemed to unravel a bit.  Terri Lewis
provided the following great solution:

    Use a soldering gun or iron [to melt the edges].  That should stop it
    from unraveling unless your [hedgehog] is really chewing on it and not
    just pulling at it.
    -- Terri Lewis

I've also found that careful use of a candle along the edges works well, but
I do stress being careful!

I can now attest to astroturf working quite well, and I've found that my
hedgehogs appear to be more active on it than with wood shavings, though that
may have just been their anticipation of spring being in the air, at the
time.

Janet Jones sent along some information on a new product that also shows some
promise:

       	COMPANY:
       	Adsorbent Corporation
       	1051 Hilton Avenue
       	Bellingham, WA 98225
       	U.S.A.

    This information was taken directly from their packaging:

      CareFRESH Pet Bedding - The safest, healthiest bedding for your pet.

      For hamsters, gerbils, mice, rabbits, birds, reptiles, guinea pigs,
      cats, dogs, ferrets, skunks and other pets.

      CareFRESH is a patented pet bedding made from reclaimed wood pulp waste.
      This short fiber virgin pulp can't be made into paper so would normally
      be sent to a landfill or burned. CareFRESH helps save scarce resources.
      CareFRESH contains no added inks, dyes or chemical contaminants. It's
      better bedding, naturally.

    I use this bedding for all my small animals, i.e., hamster, rat and
    hedgehogs. They have been on this bedding for about a month and seem to
    like it quite well.  The female hedgehog I just recently got loves to
    burrow underneath it, as do the rat and hamster.  I previously used corn
    cobs as I have allergies and wood chips of any kind make me ill. The dust
    in pine is terrible.  The corn cobs are pretty good, but they still are a
    little dusty and kind of rough. The only downside I found about CareFRESH
    bedding is that it is kind of expensive and hard to find.  But it does
    seem to last quite a while, so maybe in the long run it really is not as
    expensive as it seems.

Note: Some problems have been reported with some young hedgehogs eating and
subsequently choking on CareFRESH bedding.  I suspect this same problem can
occur with virtually any pelletized bedding material, and the best suggestion
is to keep it away from the dinner area and to be careful with baby and
adolescent hedgehogs.

Yesterday's News cat litter, made of pelletized recycled newspapers, also
works quite well.  They produce a variety for `ferrets' which has a smaller
pellet size than the cat litter variety, but I've found no complaints from
the quilled crowd over the larger, cat litter sized pieces.  Note: they also
make a `lemon' scented variety, which is probably not a good choice, both
from the aromatic point of view, and the fact that hedgehogs are usually not
overly fond of citrus.

Another suggestion is to just use non-clumping cat litter.  This may have two
potential dangers: dust and especially for male hedgehogs, getting caught in
the penile sheath -- the same as if you used it in a litter box [5.4], [9.1]
(there can also be problems for females, though these are not as frequent).

Corncob litter is not recommended as bedding for hedgehogs, for a number of
reasons.  The danger of it getting caught in delicate places still exists,
though not as likely as, say, clumping cat litters.  There have also been
many cases of mites that pointed back to the use of corncob bedding as the
source.  Corncob also tends to become mouldy when it gets damp, as well as
just rotting and causing odour.

Shredded office paper can also be used as bedding, although make sure it
doesn't contain any metal (such as staples or paperclips) or odd chemical
impregnated or carbon paper.  It can, however, be quite dusty.

Although most bedding for pets is treated to prevent mites, bedding is still
one of the major sources of these little pests [8.2].  I have heard from a
couple of people who have reported that their vets told them that corn cob
bedding can be especially prone to mite infestations.  I do have to temper
that thought with the idea that if a particular brand or batch in the area
that these people lived was bad, it could have been the source for numerous
problems over quite a period of time.  Still, if you have mite problems, it
is probably worthwhile to switch to at least a different brand of bedding, if
not a different type -- at least for a while.

Looking still further afield, you can use the brightly coloured aquarium
gravel (the type that is epoxy coated).  This is not absorbent like the other
bedding options, nor as warm, but it does provide a pretty safe, and
non-allergic alternative.  Cleaning and disinfecting can, however be awkward,
making this better for particular areas rather than as a general bedding.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.4> What kind of litter should I use?

When it comes to the litter box, the primary concern is that you do NOT use a
clumping type litter.  Clumping litter can stick to your hedgehog when s/he
uses the litter box, forming almost a layer of cement, which can quickly
prevent urination.

Almost any brand of non-clumping cat litter is relatively safe. A clay based
litter may be preferable, as most hedgehogs like to dig in it, as they would
in soft soil or sand. Here again, you should ask the expert (your hedgehog)
for his/her preference.

It is possible, however, for even non-clumping litter to become caked on, so
you should check your hedgehog frequently.

    I have seen clay litter clump on one of our hedgehogs.  I let her
    walk around in the tub full of shallow water until it is softened
    enough to remove gently.
    -- Mike McGary

Male hedgehogs can also get pieces of almost any kind of litter and bedding
(especially clay and corncob) caught in their penile sheath.  You should
check hedgehogs of both sexes daily (or nightly, as the case may be) to
ensure that there aren't any such problems.

As with bedding, there is a need that the litter you use not be too dusty.

Hedgehogs also like to dig and root in sand, and will often end up using
their litter boxes for this, instead of for the intended purpose.  If yours
does this, you might want to try offering a sandbox [5.8] as a play area.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.5> I'm having problems litter-training my hedgehog.  What should
               I be doing?

I wish I knew the answer to this one!  Velcro and Popeye insisted that one's
so called master is there for the express purpose of feeding tasty tidbits
then cleaning up the results wherever they decide to leave them.  As for the
litter box, well that's just a playpen for digging in, isn't it?  On the
other hand, Sprocket and Hocus as well as Pocus seemed to just naturally seek
out and use a litter box, and so do some of my current `ladies,' so there was
no training involved.  Now if I could get them to teach Popeye some manners!

That having been said, the recommended approach (which did not receive the
Velcro stamp of approval, I might add) is to put all the droppings you find,
into the litter box, daily.  The idea is that the hedgehog will come to
associate the litter box with where the droppings are supposed to go.  Some
hedgehogs apparently take to this quite readily.

In all seriousness, I suspect that hedgehogs which are taught from birth to
use a litter box, will generally do so quite happily, while those that have
not been taught, or didn't receive adequate training while quite young may
not be keen on using the litter box, but persistence may pay off eventually.

For what it is worth, cleaning up hedgehog droppings is not exactly a
difficult or messy task.  In a pen with pine or aspen shavings it is simply a
matter of quickly sifting though the shavings with a cat litter scoop to
clean up the droppings.  Fortunately, there is virtually no odour, and the
droppings are big enough to clean up easily.

In addition to everything above, here are some interesting, and very
promising tips on litterbox training:

    I had the same problem [not using the litter box -- ed.] with my
    hedgehog Quincy.  To resolve the problem, and he still misses the
    mark at times, I built a cardboard enclosure with a small entrance
    opening to fit over the litter pan in the corner of his cage - He has
    one of the small animal corner litter pans.  Unable, to resist a small
    opening, Quincy soon began doing his business in there.  I put him in
    there every time he finished eating, and it didn't take long before he
    got the idea.  Before, I added the cardboard cupboard, he would only use
    the litter pan as a ``sandbox,'' and could often be spotted sitting in
    the pan, eating the corn cob pellets.  Thankfully, he doesn't do that
    anymore either.
    -- Michelle Baker

Given the appeal of small openings to hedgehogs, it's a wonder why nobody
thought of using that for any number of hedgie herding or training actions.
My thanks to Michelle for this -- I'll definitely give it a try with my
ill-behaved bunch.

Hot on the heels of the idea above, came the following suggestion from
Melissa-Lee:

    Neither of my hedgehogs were litter trained when they came home, but I
    figured out how to train them.  My male was easier to train because I
    just put some of her [the female's] waste in his litter pan and of
    course he had to cover up someone else's smell, and he never stopped
    using it.  The female just naturally took to the litter box when I but
    it in the corner where she went and she took to it.

This is another fine example of "why didn't I think of that!"  I suspect this
would generally work best with males, who tend to be somewhat more
territorial than females, but the idea of using a different hedgie's
droppings to coerce one into knowing where to go has a lot of merit.

As with all things hedgehog, patience is the key.  These ideas aren't likely
to result in instant results, so be patient, and keep at it.

Don't expect perfect results, however, hedgehogs are just not going to be
that fastidious about things.  There are going to be exceptions, no matter
what.

Some factors that will, however, make `mistakes' worse, are things like
wheels.  Remember that hedgehogs feel an almost irresistible need to go while
on the go.  As a result, you can often count on wheels becoming an alternate
litterbox (not to mention a poop slingshot of sorts).  Some hedgies will also
get into the habit of stopping briefly, to hang their backsides over the edge
of the wheel to `go' making it a bit easier to clean up afterwards.

In the end, there is no magic bullet to getting a hedgehog to use its litter
box.  Try the ideas above, and if it doesn't work out, it's not that bad --
trust me, I know!

------------------------------

Subject: <5.6> Hedgehogs and wheels

Most hedgehogs dearly love to run, and a hedgehog wheel provide the
opportunity for plenty of important exercise.  Although there are problems
associated with using improper wheels, the positive effects of having and
using a wheel are virtually enough to make one a necessity (unless your
hedgie has free run of an entire room).

One of the most tragic maladies found in hedgehogs these days is Fatty Liver
Disease, though for all the cases I have heard of, none have occurred in
hedgehogs that have and use wheels.  This includes cases where siblings have
each had the same diet, but one has not used a wheel, and the other has.
Exercise is very critical to our little friends, and for almost all of them,
the only option available to get them enough exercise is to give them a
wheel.

Here are a few thoughts on hedgehogs and wheels from Nathan Tenny:

    They adore exercise wheels, and will run upwards of five miles a
    night (at a top speed of 12 mph!); their feet get stuck in the
    regular wire wheels, though, and screen is hard to clean (they
    seem to like defecating while on the move, which makes sense, I
    guess).

All is not wonderful with hedgehog wheels -- there are a few serious problems
that need to be considered.

(1) It is necessary that the wheel have a solid surface.
    A hedgehog wheel should not just have a set of wires running across it
    as on most wheels for hamsters, gerbils, etc.  Without a solid surface,
    your hedgehog will get his legs caught in the wheel, and/or develop
    sores, or worse problems.  There are a number of ways to adapt wire
    wheels, so that they have smooth surfaces, from liners to duct tape,
    just use your imagination.  Having a solid wheel leads us to the next
    problem.

(2) Hedgehogs tend to leave their droppings all over their wheels:

        There's still one pending problem with the hedgehog wheels I've seen:
        Hedgehogs tend to defecate on the run (reasonable enough), and the
        wheel eventually gets pretty icky.  If you don't clean it, so does
        the hedgehog.  Unfortunately, hedgehog feces stick to wood fairly
        effectively (that's quite the understatement -- I'm thinking of
        marketing it as a new extra strong glue -- ed.).  A heavy coat of
        enamel paint makes them easier to clean off, but I'd sure like to
        find a surface that they'll just wipe away from.  Teflon wheels?

        Here's my fiancee's suggestion: If you live near a glass supply
        store, you'll find that they sell sheets of a sort of sticky
        vinyl---intended as masking for people who sandblast glass.
        Anyway, we have one wheel that has strips of this stuff along it,
        for traction, and she says that the strips are noticeably easier
        to clean than the plain wheel.  Just a thought.
        -- Nathan Tenny

    Velcro's wheel was lined with some cheap vinyl placemats (the smooth,
    shiny, padded kind) that were cut into strips and stuck together with
    anti-slip strips (sort of like self adhesive sandpaper to put on stairs
    and things to keep people from sliding away).  The anti-slip strips were
    there as a vain attempt to help Velcro keep his nails worn down a little.
    It wasn't too slippery, and definitely passed the Velcro approval test
    (by that, I mean it needed a thorough cleaning most mornings)!

(3) Pad any spokes you have on your wheel.
    Hedgehogs have a tendency to suddenly look around to the sides and
    behind while they are running -- to see how far they've gone.  This
    almost always results in getting hit in the face with a spoke from the
    wheel.  Unfortunately I know of at least one hedgehog who has lost an
    eye because of this (the hedgehog is fine -- it was properly treated by
    a vet).  The only sensible solution I can see is to pad the spokes so
    that they don't cause injuries when they hit, or if you are really
    inventive, maybe design a spokeless wheel, maybe suspended on a roller
    from the top of the cage?

I received a reminder recently, from Teresa, that to help cure a squeaky
wheel, you can use petroleum jelly, and not have to worry about any harmful
consequences from it being licked at by a curious hedgehog.  I know from
experience what happens to your nerves when a wheel (or two, or three, or...)
is squeaking, when you're trying to get to sleep.  ;-} I've also found that
both Linatone and vegetable oil will work, but they do tend to become sticky
over time, while petroleum jelly usually will not, and tends to last longer.

For those of you who do not feel up to tackling the job of constructing your
own (see section [5.7], if you are up to it), there are a number of sources of
ready made wheels for hedgehogs and suitable for them.  Unfortunately, few
pet stores carry wheels that can be used for hedgehogs, even with adaptation,
so it is usually necessary to revert to mail-order, or to building your own.

Probably the most common wheels are the RoundAbout wheels by Balanced
Innovations.  Balanced Innovations is now owned by Ain't No Creek Ranch
[2.7], so they are probably one of the best sources for these wheels.

       	Ain't No Creek Ranch
       	2553 W Offner Road
       	Beecher, IL
       	USA   60401-3347

       	email:  [email]
        www:    http://www.aintnocreek.com/

       	Phone:  (708) 946-9750
       	Fax:    (708) 534-3277

RoundAbout wheels are also available from Brisky Pet Products:

       	Brisky Pet Products
       	South Main Street
       	P.O. Box 186
       	Franklinville, NY  14737
       	USA

       	www:   http://www.brisky.com/
       	email: [email]

       	phone: 1-800-462-2464 (toll free, US only)
       	or:    (716) 557-2464
       	fax:   (716) 557-2336

Other sources for hedgehog safe wheels are places such as Transoniq Wodent
Wheels (my thanks here to John Masinter for the info).  These wheels are
enclosed with round openings.  The larger wheels are big enough for hedgies,
but you may need to enlarge the openings for many hedgies -- especially if
the reason for the wheel is to trim down a plump hedgehog.  You can contact
them through email at [email] or via:

       	Transoniq
       	1402 SW Upland Drive
       	Portland, OR 97221
       	USA

       	503-227-6848
       	toll-free hotline: 1-800-548-8925. This line is automated, so be
       	ready with your charge number, name and address, and order items.

       	www: http://www.teleport.com/%7Etrnsoniq/wodent.html

Haba Exotics also make an innovative, and very safe wheel, which avoids both
the problems of spokes and non-solid running surface.

       	Haba Exotic Animals and Enclosures
       	17650 1st Ave. South
       	Suite 525
       	Seattle, WA 98148
       	USA

       	phone: (206) 244-0285
       	fax:   (206) 248-7205
       	www:   http://www.habaexotic.com/

------------------------------

Subject: <5.7> Making your own wheel

There are a wealth of ways to make your own wheel(s) for hedgehogs.  This can
be a fun, and easy project, and can save you considerable costs -- especially
if you're on a budget or have a number of hedgies to equip.  This section
contains a number of ideas on how to go about it.  The keys are to make sure
you get something big enough, and with a safe, solid surface to run on -- and
something that won't keep you and half the neighbourhood up all night.  ;-)

Here are some rough pointers on making your own hedgehog wheel from Nathan
Tenny:

    We've begun making wooden wheels out of Popsicle sticks and cross-stitch
    circles (the 12'' size; 10'' is just slightly too small).  The axle is a
    thin dowel, and the spokes are just lengths of plywood (1'' x 0.5'', I
    think).  Depending on where it's being set up, such a wheel can be
    mounted in a bunch of different ways -- hung from the top of the tank
    [or cage], for instance.

Chuck Stoup passed along the following variation on building a wheel that
looks great:

    Over the weekend I made a hedgehog wheel as described in the hedgehog
    FAQ.  I made several improvements that I thought I'd share with everyone.

    On the FAQ the treadmill was made with Popsicle sticks.  I picked up some
    of the plastic grid in the sewing store that is used for yarn rugs and
    the like.  I cut several strips the width of the treadmill and used a
    string to tie them together so its length was just longer than the
    circumference of the embroidery hoops.  I used 2 9'' hoops.  Then I
    wrapped the plastic mesh around the inner hoops and secured it with the
    outer hoop and tightened.  Then I cut some sand paper lengthwise just
    wide enough to fit in the treadmill of the wheel.  I used a hot glue gun
    to hold the paper down.  Brillo seems to really like it.

    I used sand paper for two reasons.  The first was the [editor] of the
    FAQ mentioned about this great adhesive quality of hedgehog dung and how
    they seem to defecate on the run.  I figured sand paper would make an
    excellent surface that I can remove and discard when it gets too dirty.
    The plastic wont mind getting wet either.  The other reason I used sand
    paper was I figured if Brillo used it she would wear down her nails and
    I would not have to trim her.

If you are going to use sandpaper, you should make sure you are using a very
fine grade (probably 400 or higher grit), and you should also watch out for
foot problems.  Some hedgehogs can run their feet raw, or even to the point
of bleeding (yes, they are that insistent on running, that even bleeding feet
won't give them pause to stop).  If this happens, remove the sandpaper.

When I asked Chuck about using this information he also sent along the some
more good ideas:

    As you know, I used that plastic mesh for the running surface, but I
    didn't have spokes that I thought were any good.  At one point I decided
    that the same plastic mesh would make a good set of spokes.  I cut two
    pieces shaped like a cross and tied the tips of the cross to the mesh on
    the wheel.  To mount the axle I bought some eye-lets for clothing and
    swaged them in the center of the mesh as a hub and used a coat hanger as
    an axle.  Runs very smoothly with no noise.

I'm not sure about using the 9'' hoops (ours are 14'', and that seems just
right), but that depends entirely on the size of your hedgehog, and the
amount of space you have available.  The whole idea certainly sounds easier
than the Popsicle stick method.


author: Brian MacNamara

subject: Hedgehog FAQ [5/7] - Care and Understanding

text:
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part5
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs

Last-modified: 21 March 2004
Version: 3.60

HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 5 of 7) -- HEDGEHOG HEALTH CARE AND UNDERSTANDING
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara ([email])
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.

This document is copyright 2004 by Brian MacNamara.  See section [0.6]
for authorship information and redistribution rights.  In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.

The basic Hedgehog FAQ has seven parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one.  A complete table of contents for
all seven parts is given below.

Please note:  While my knowledge of hedgehogs has grown (far beyond my
wildest expectations when I began the FAQ), my knowledge is still quite
limited, especially in areas of health care.  I did not write, or verify,
all the information in this FAQ.  I have done my best to include only
accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness
of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that
it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way.  For advice
from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1],
or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian
who is familiar with hedgehogs.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

7. *** Things hedgehogs say and do ***

   <7.1> Self-anointing.  What is it?  Why do hedgehogs do it?
   <7.2> My hedgehog snuffles and hides a lot.  Is that normal?
   <7.3> Is he just asleep or hibernating?
   <7.4> My hedgehog sneezes.  What should I do?
   <7.5> My hedgehog's gone ballistic?  Is this normal?
   <7.6> Basic hedgehog repertoire

8. *** Basic health care ***

   <8.1> What health risks should I worry about?
   <8.2> Mites (or mites, not?)
   <8.3> Tattered or ragged ears
   <8.4> Hedgehog first-aid kit
   <8.5> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?
   <8.6> Vaccinations, etc.

9. *** Problems to watch for and related information ***

   <9.1> Various hedgehog health issues
   <9.2> My hedgehog's had funny-looking stools for a couple of days.
         What's wrong?
   <9.3> My hedgehog's not eating.  What should I do?
   <9.4> How did I get fleas in my home?  How can I get rid of
         them?
   <9.5> Wobbly hedgehogs

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

7. *** Things hedgehogs say and do ***

------------------------------

Subject: <7.1> Self-anointing.  What is it?  Why do hedgehogs do it?

I have mentioned self-anointing (or self-lathering, as it is sometime called,
in at least the U.K.) repeatedly throughout the FAQ, so now it is time to
explore the hedgehog's one truly unique trait.  Nathan Tenny provided a good
description of this interesting and perplexing hedgehog habit:

    If you smell *really* interesting, your hedgehog will lick
    or nibble on you, back off, and suddenly contort itself, start
    foaming at the mouth, and lick the foam onto its spines.  This
    ``self-anointing'' has to be seen to be believed, but it's perfectly
    normal.  It's not known for sure why they do it, but it probably
    has something to do with self-defence; hedgehogs are *highly*
    resistant to most toxins, and when they encounter something that
    might be toxic, they get it in their mouths, foam, and cover
    themselves with the toxic mixture.  The result is a toxic hedgehog,
    which is really something to reckon with.  (Incidentally, the toxin
    resistance of hedgehogs is truly prodigious and has been the subject
    of some research; they are one of the few animals that can safely eat
    giant toads (_Bufo marinus_), for instance.)

    One more last note:  We don't know why this happens, but even without
    the benefit of self-anointing, their spines seem to have a mild
    toxic/irritant effect; when you prick yourself on one, even slightly,
    it hurts more than it should, and for a little bit longer.  No big deal,
    just sort of strange.

One of the most effective ways to provoke a session of self-anointing is to
pick up your hedgehog when you have sweaty hands, or after having used hand
lotion, or a different type of soap.

In any case, once you have witnessed this entertaining act, and you have
calmed down enough to understand your little friend doesn't have rabies after
all, you will likely be convinced that hedgehogs do not have backbones.  It's
really hard to believe something as round as a hedgehog can twist itself into
that contorted a position.  It's also a bit disconcerting to learn just how
long that tongue is!

------------------------------

Subject: <7.2> My hedgehog snuffles and hides a lot.  Is that normal?

Yep.  If he doesn't, are you sure you have a hedgehog?  The snuffling or
snorting (or snurfling, as my wife calls it), while having the head tucked
down, is part of the defence mechanism that has kept hedgehogs around for a
very long time.  It basically leaves them with their quills protecting every
bit of visible surface, but still allows the hedgehog to move.  The snuffling
and snorting is usually accompanied by sudden lurches in the direction the
hedgehog believes its potential enemy is in, to try and give it a good
warning prickle.

The more your hedgehog comes to know you, the less you will get the sharp
shoulder treatment.  One exception to this is if your hedgehog is sleepy.  A
sleepy hedgehog can be very insistent about not being disturbed [3.1].

Getting your hedgehog to become familiar with you takes a lot of patience,
but it is worth it.  If your hedgehog tends to be somewhat shy or unfriendly
towards you, try spending more time holding him -- chances are he just
doesn't associate your smell with being a friend, yet.  For more information
on getting your hedgie used to you, see section [4.6].

------------------------------

Subject: <7.3> Is he just asleep or hibernating?

A quick note here: this section applies to African Pigmy hedgehogs, rather
than European hedgehogs (which do hibernate, primarily between January and
March).

A common concern is whether or not pet hedgehogs can, or should hibernate --
especially as winter starts to arrive.  The answer to the first part -- can
they? -- is yes.  The answer to the second part -- should they? -- is NO!

Our pet hedgehogs are African in origin.  They have adapted to the much
warmer climate, and have generally lost the ability to tolerate hibernation.
While they can still go into hibernation, when they get too cold, and they do
have the ability to Aestivate (similar to hibernation, but to survive very
hot, dry periods), their chances of surviving either for more than a brief
period are virtually nonexistant.  In effect the hibernation ability is
almost vestigal, and aestivation is almost as dangerous for an animal which
is not prepared for it.

As pets, hedgehogs do not stock up on food, nor put on the necessary extra
body fat (at least in the right manner) needed to get through hibernation.  A
pet that is allowed to even suffer semi-hibernation extensively can suffer
long term effects (becomming very weak and sick), and those that do end up in
full hibernation will rarely survive beyond 1-2 days in this state, if at
all.

Now that we've made it clear that they shouldn't be allowed to hibernate (or
even go into semi-hibernation, what are the signs to look for, and how do you
prevent it from happening?  The good news is that if caught in time, the
effects are reversable.  If the temperature where they are kept drops too low
(below about 20 degrees C or 68 degrees F), they can start preparing for
hibernation and will certainly go into hibernation for brief periods, if the
temperature drops much below this -- at least until the temperature returns
to a comfortable level.

If your hedgehog seems to be sleeping too soundly, and you are worried, any
kind of movement to his or her bed will usually earn you at least a brief
spate of unhappy snuffling.  If this happens, then you can probably assume
you've just disturbed a sleepy hedgehog, or at least he's not in full
hibernation.  If this and nudging at him don't have any effect, and he's been
in quite a cool (for a hedgehog) temperature, he may have slipped into the
beginnings of hibernation, and should be gently (and slowly) warmed up, which
should let him awaken, and come back to full activity.

Hedgehogs will also tend to slow down and get somewhat grumpy if they are
kept at a temperature that's too cool for their liking.  If you're finding
that your previously energetic hedgehog is acting a bit slow and grumpy, and
cool weather has started to arrive, then you may want to take steps to warm
up your hedgehog [5.2], [7.3].

One of the most common signs of a hedgehog being too cold (semi-hibernation),
is being very unsteady on its feet.  Wobbly hedgehogs, or ones showing signs
of problems in their hindquarters are almost always due to being too cold.
There are some other causes for this type of symptom, as well (see [9.5] on
Wobbly Hedgehogs), but of the cases I've heard of over 99% are from being
cold.

Another sign that a hedgehog that is too cool is its going off its food.  If
your hedgehog isn't eating, and is walking a bit funny, it may be because he
is a bit cool.

    The first thing to do is to check to see if the animal is warm enough.
    Feel its legs and belly.  If these feel chilled the animal needs to be
    immediately warmed up.  A chilled hedgehog will walk as if it is drunk.
    A variety of methods can be used to warm them.  The one that I use is
    to put the animal in the cut off sleeve of a sweatshirt.  I then put
    it in a box (I actually have an 8 litre cooler that I use) with a jar
    of hot water.  Close the lid of the box (or put the lid on loosely to
    allow for air in the cooler).  They usually warm up in about an hour
    or so.  When I put the animal back in its own cage, I make sure I give
    it a sleeve to keep warm in.  Some animals are more prone to chills
    than others.
    -- Linda Wheatley

In general, the likelihood of hibernation happening is quite low, so if your
hedgehog isn't making its home in the refrigerator, and you don't like living
in subarctic conditions indoors, you probably shouldn't worry.  That having
been said, I have heard of several instances of it happening (briefly, and
all fully recovered when warmed up), so some caution is worthwhile.

Recently, another cause of hibernation, or more commonly, partial hibernation
has shown up.  It appears that hedgehogs are quite sensitive to the short
daylight hours, or even low light, as can happen during the winter months.
If your hedgehog is warm enough, but still shows indications of wanting to
hibernate, try leaving a light on to extend the `length of the day' for him.
I've seen this help with my own hedgehogs, and my thanks to both Dawn Wrobel
and Sharon Massena for bringing it to my attention.

Beyond even the light issue, it appears that some `lines' of pet hedgehogs
may be more prone to hibernation, or rather trying to hibernate than others.
In some cases, you may need to be very diligent to ensure your little friend
doesn't drift off into a one-way winter's nap on you.  Details on this,
assumed, genetic link are very sketchy as yet.

Also a worry is the chance of pet hedgehogs going into aestivation.  This is
similar to hibernation, but is done when things get too warm.  In their
natural habitat, this is to let the hedgehog wait things out until cooler
and/or damper weather returns.  Pet hedgehogs can slip into this state,
especially in light of heatwaves in recent years in North America.  The
problems and side effects of aestivation are largely the same as for
hibernation.

Remember, keep your hedgie warm!

------------------------------

Subject: <7.4> My hedgehog sneezes.  What should I do?

Occasional sneezes are normal.  When you consider the amount of exploring
that hedgehogs like to do, in combination with just how busy that little nose
is, it's pretty easy to understand that the result will be an occasional
sneeze.

Extended sneezing fits, or nasal discharge, however, indicates a problem, and
a trip to the vet is in order.  This can indicate anything from a respiratory
problem, to a bad cold.  In most cases, the treatment will consist of
antibiotics, which usually help beat the problem in short order.

------------------------------

Subject: <7.5> My hedgehog's gone ballistic?  Is this normal?

You've just introduced your hedgehog to a nice new big pen and all of a
sudden it's like he's going crazy, running madly around the cage, trying to
get out of every little nook and cranny, and generally driving you up the
wall.  Yes, this is quite normal (for the hedgehog -- you being up the wall,
I can't comment on).

Hedgehogs appear to do this when they get into a new environment, and will
usually settle down in a while, once they decide that (a) they can't actually
get out (which given the slightest chance, they will), and (b) they have
decided this is now home.  Some hedgehogs will literally climb the walls just
to check whether you remembered a roof or not.  My Pocus was a fine example
of this.  She would climb anything, anywhere, anytime, to any height.

Some things you can do to reduce the chaos and chances of reoccurrence are to
provide a familiar nest or burrow for your little beast, and to install a
wheel for exercise [5.6], [5.7] (all that energy is pretty normal in
hedgehogs -- scary, huh?).  Lots of active play times can help too.

One other answer here is to simply enjoy the fact that you have a healthy,
energetic hedgehog.

------------------------------

Subject: <7.6> Basic hedgehog repertoire

As far as sounds go, officially, the only sounds that hedgehogs are supposed
to make is their snuffling and snorting when they are feeling threatened, and
some squeaking as babies, or during mating.  That said, I can tell you
hedgehogs have an amazing number of little sounds in their repertoire.  I
have it on good advice and from personal experience that there are a number
of other hedgehog vocalizations that occur in both babies and adults.

Most of the time, aside from the snuffling, the only sound most hedgies make
is a soft `whiffling' sound, usually as they are exploring and sniffing for
new and interesting discoveries.

One time that hedgehogs completely abandon their silent ways is when it comes
to mating.  This is particularly true of males who will often end up sounding
like a video game gone wild with an amazing series of squeaks and chirps as
they vie for the favours of the lady.

In addition, here are some comments from other people on hedgehog sounds:

    At least two of my younger ones have kept this ability [nursing
    type squeaks] and can shriek quite loudly when startled or angry.
    This will wake the deepest sleeper.
    -- Mike McGary

    All the hedgehogs I've known have made a quiet twittering noise when
    they were relaxed and exploring.
    -- Nathan Tenny

I'd like to thank Mike McGary, with some commentary from Nathan Tenny and
Znofyl, for sharing thoughts on the virtuoso singing of hedgehogs here to
give people an idea of some of the extremes that can be reached.  I would
also like to note that unless a lady-hog was in his immediate company, the
loudest thing that ever came out of Velcro, other than snuffling, was a
contented slurp when he buried his nose in a container of cream.

    The books all say that hedgehogs don't make much noise.  They do squeak
    for their mother when they are still nursing and make snorting and
    snuffling noises as adults....one account says that they can snore quite
    loudly.

    My young male (Adam) has been known to scream when frightened.  This
    isn't a small squeak, but a full-fledged rabbit-caught-in-a-trap
    scream.  But the real oddity has started recently.  We have one of
    those beep-beep-beep-beep alarm clocks.  We normally set it for
    6:00 am, but keep pushing the snooze button every time it goes off
    (sometimes for a long time).  After the alarm goes off, Adam starts
    to make this eeeeh-eeeeeh-eeeeeeh sound like he is imitating the
    alarm clock.  He does it every morning and you can get up and
    watch him....he doesn't move....he just sings.
    -- Mike McGary

The following from Znofyl and Nathan are about as good an answer to this
mystery as we're likely to get without growing quills ourselves:

    I wonder whether the hedgie isn't responding to this alarm noise
    thinking it is another male. My males are VERY noisy when breeding.
    -- Znofyl

    This sounds really likely to me.  My male's mating noise is a sort of
    breathy ``squeeEEEEEk-squeeEEEEEk''---is that the general tenor of
    Adam's morning ditty?
    -- Nathan Tenny