subject: Ship Modeling FAQ, Part 09/15 (Clubs: 13K)

text:
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part09
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 2 August 1996 00:00:00 GMT
Last-modified: 23 June 1996

This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 09) on ship modeling.

Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with.  The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.

This material should be considered copyright by the author(s).  This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material.  Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).

The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.

        ###############################################

100.    Are there any ship modeling clubs?

List last updated 3 March 1996.  (Note:  entries sorted by ZIP code)

***(Also look in the back of Scale Ship Modeler Magazine. They have a
large listing of the more prominant ship modeling clubs in Canada and
the USA. -- contributed by: mailto:[email])

USS Constitution Model Shipwright Guild of New England  Massachusetts
    Meetings:  1st Tuesday of the Month
    Contact:    Robert D. Laslocky
                16A Mayberry Dr.
                Westborough, MA  01581-1342
                        mailto:[email]

Cape Ann Ship Modelers' Guild                           Massachusetts
    Meetings:  2nd Monday of each month, 7:30 pm
    Contact:    Secretary, Cape Ann Ship Modelers' Guild, Inc.
                R57 Washington St.
                Gloucester, MA  01930

The Marine Modelers Club of New England Massachusetts
    Contact:    Dean Jernstrom
                838 Pond St.
                Franklin, MA  02038     (508) 520-0340

Jamaica Pond Modelers' Club                             Massachusetts
    Meetings:  Saturdays, 10 a.m. - 1 p.m.
    Contact:    Joe Perez
                P. O. Box 222
                Jamaica Plain, MA  02130

Connecticut Marine Model Society                        Connecticut
    Meetings:  2nd Friday of each month at 8:00 p.m., in Maxie Hall,
                Room 103 at the University of New Haven, New Haven, CT
    Contact:    Richard Alexander
                15 Ferryview Dr.
                Gales Ferry, CT  06335          (203) 464-7462

South Orange Seaport Society                            New Jersey
    Contact:    John Gill
                5 Mmead St.
                South Orange, NJ 07079          770-1784

Philadelphia Ship Model Society                         Pennsylvania
    Contact:    Richard M. Austin
                21 Lafferty Dr.
                Cherry Hill, NJ  08002

Garden State Model Boaters                              New Jersey
    Contact:    Dave Kammerer
                371 Euclid Ave.
                Managsquam, NJ  08736

Ship Lore and Model Club                                New York
    Meetings:  2nd Monday of each month
    Contact:    Norman Brouwer
                South Street Seaport Museum
                207 Front Street
                New York NY 10038

The Ship Model Society of Northern New Jersey           New Jersey
    Meetings:  4th Tuesday of each month, Millburn Public Library
    Contact:    Dan Pariser
                75 Livingston St. #10A
                Brooklyn, NY 11201      (718) 855-1720

Model Shipcraft Guild of New York                       New York
    Meetings:  3rd Tuesday of each month, 7:30-10:30 p.m., Battery
                Park Building (next to Staten Island Ferry Slip in
                Manhattan)
    Contact:    John Mango
                2012 60th St.
                Brooklyn, NY  11204
        -or-    George D'Elia  201-332-5631

Long Island Ship Model Society                          New York
    Meetings:  2nd Wednesday of each Month at 8 p.m.
    Contact:    Hal Bosche
                90 North Ocean Avenue
                Islip, NY 11751

Catskill Scale Model Shipwrights                        New York
    Contact:    Joe Callejo
                408 A Spillway Road
                West Hurley, NY  12491

Buffalo Model Powerboat Club                            New York
    Contact:    Karl Kalb
                2960 Pearce Road
                North Tonawanda, NY  14120      (716) 731-9717

Task Force 50                                           Pennsylvania
    Contact:    Thomas Fooler
                RD #6, Box 56
                York, PA 17404                  (717) 792-1831

Valley Forge Ship Model Society                         Pennsylvania
    Contact:    Ernest Morris
                R.D. #4, Box 82
                Spring City Road,
                Phoenixville, PA  19460-1848    (215) 948-8107

Maryland Attack Group                                   Maryland
    Purpose: Model boating (Mainly R/C combat with the IR/CWCC format)
    Contact:    Martin Hayes,
                1113 Crestview Dr.,
                Annapolis, MD  21401                            *NEW*

Washington Ship Model Society                           Virginia
    Meetings:  2nd Tuesday of each month
    Contact:    Gene Larson
                9223 Presidential Drive
                Alexandria, VA
                22309

Hampton Roads Ship Model Society                        Virginia
    Meetings:  20:00 hours, 2nd Friday of each month
    Contact:    Alan Frazer
                108-G Indian Summer Drive
                Yorktown, VA  23693-1034

Carolina Maritime Society                               North Carolina
    Meetings:  Last Saturday of each month at 2 pm in the North Carolina
        Maritime Museum
    Contact:    North Carolina Maritime Museum
                315 Front Street
                Beaufort, NC  28516-2125        (919) 728-7317

Jacksonville Ship Model Club                            Florida
    Meetings:  2nd Tuesday of each month
    Contact:    Jacksonville Maritime Museum
                1015 Museum Drive, Unit 2
                Jacksonville, FL  32207

North Palm Beach County Model Club                      Florida
    Contact:    Dan Seaman
                119 Brookhaven Ct.
                Palm Beach Gardens, FL  33418   (407) 622-8358

Tampa Bay Ship Model Society                            Florida
    Meetings:  7:00 p.m., 4th Tuesday of each month in the Bayonet Point
        Community Center in Tampa, Florida.
    Contact:    Walker Roberts
                Box 4148
                Tampa, FL  33677        (813) 875-3422

Old Frigates Ship Modelers                              Florida
    Meetings:  1st Thursday of each month
    Contact:    Steve Feinman  (904) 873-0663 (day);  (904) 237-4968 (eve.)

Suncoast Ship Model Society of Spring Hill      Florida
    Meetings:  7:00 pm at Week Wuchse Acres Senior Citizen Club
    Contact:    Neil A Brothers
                9096 Jena Rd.
                Spring Hill, FL  34608  (352) 686-8640

Maritime Modelers Inc.                                  Kentucky
    Meetings:  Every 2nd Thursday, Covington Fire Fighters Building
                Howell Ave. and 23rd St, Covington KY 7 p.m.
    Contact:    Maritime Modelers Inc.
                63 Linet
                Highland Heights, KY  41076

Columbus Santa Maria Model Ship Builders Guild          Ohio
    Contact:    Columbus Santa Maria Model Ship Builders Guild
                c/o Richard J. Lott
                4567 Westport Road, Apt. 3
                Columbus, OH  43228     (614) 279-3459

Society of Model Shipcrafters of Great Lakes Historical Society  Ohio
    Contact:    Bill Halen
                4038 Ridge Rd. #4
                Brooklyn, OH  44144     (216) 351-6632

The Admirals                                            Indiana
    Meetings:  2nd Thursday of each month, 6:30 pm, at Nora Public
                Library, 8625 Guilford Avenue, Indianapolis, IN  46143
    Contact:    Earl L. Cotton          (317) 888-8575

Midwest Model Shipwrights                               Illinois
    Meetings:  3rd Wednesday of each month
    Contact:    The Ship Chandler
                518 E. Northwest Highway
                Mt. Prospect, IL  60056

Nautical Research and Ship Model Society                Illinois
    Meetings:  2nd Saturday of each month, @ 7:30 pm at the Rich Port
                YMCA at Ogden Avenue at LaGrange Road, LaGrange, Il
    Contact:    Joh Pocius
                189 Chandler
                Elmhurst, IL  60126

North Shore Deadeyes                                    Illinois
    Meetings:  1st Tesday of each month
    Contact:    Lee Baur, 437 Provident Ave.,Winnetka, IL   60093

Gateway Model Ship Crafters                             Missouri
    Meetings:  At the Rock Road Library one Monday evening each month,
        September through May.
    Contact:    Irwin Kuehling
                541 Beuford Dr.
                St. Louis, MO  63122-1413       (314) 644-3905

Tulsa Ship Modeler's Society                            Oklahoma
    Contact:    Dan Allis
                1631 East 31st St.
                Tulsa, OK  74105-2100           (918) 747-6286

Houston Model Yacht Club                                Texas
    Meetings:  weekly;  they have scale R/C regattas and race 12M and
                36/600 yachts.
    Contact:    Commodore Ted Cooper
                1003 Country Club Dr.
                Houston, TX  77469              (713) 342-1658

Rocky Mountain Shipwrights                              Colorado
    Meetings:  2nd Saturday of each month (9:30-noon) at Castlewood
                Public Library in Englewood, CO
    Contact:    Bruce Bollenbach
                2838 East Eleventh Ave.
                Denver, CO  80206               (303) 377-3314
    -or-        Dr. Bob Roberts                 (719) 481-2449

Maritime Modelers                                       California
    Contact:    Maritime Modelers
                2554 Lincoln Blvd, Suite 215
                Marina Del Ray, CA  90291

Ship Modelers' Association                              California
    Meetings:  3rd Wednesday of each month, 7 pm, Backs Community Blg.,
        201 N. Bradford, Placentia, CA
    Contact:    Lloyd V. Warner
                2083 Reynosa Drive
                Torrance, CA  90501

San Diego Ship Modelers' Guild                          California
    Meetings:  3rd Thursday, 3:00 p.m., Bark STAR OF INDIA
    Contact:    Danial LePage
                1306 North Harbor Drive
                San Diego, CA  92101

Ventura County Maritime Museum Model Guld               California
    Meetings:  3rd Tuesday of the month at 7:00 pm
    Contact:  Clare Hess, VCMM Model Guild, 2731 South Victoria Ave.,
        Oxnard, CA  93035
        (805) 684-3673 (evenings and weekends)

South Bay Model Shipwrights                             California
    Meetings:  3rd Friday of Each Month, at the Stamford Linear
                Accelerator
    Contact:    Jean Eckert
                1623 Ben Roe Dr.
                Los Altos, CA  94024    (415) 964-0561
    =or= http://home.earthlink.net/free/gswiercz1/webdocs/sbms.html.

Diablo Model Boat Club                                  California
    Contact:    Bill Vanderslick
                Diablo Model Boat Club
                411 Melinda Court
                Pittsburg, CA  94585-3424

Metro Marine Modelers                           Ontario, Canada
    Contact:    Dan Sinstead
                General Delivery
                18 Reid St.
                Bobcaygeo
                Ontario, Canada  K0M 1A0

Provincial Marine 1812                          Ontario, Canada
    Meetings:  3rd Thursday of each month (except Jun/Jul/Aug) at:
        HMCS York, 695 Lakeshore Blvd, West Toronto, Ont., Canada
    Contact:    Al Griffiths
                57 Thicket Rd.
                Etobicoke
                Ontario, Canada  M9C 2C4

Winnipeg Model Boat Club                        Manitoba, Canada
    Contact:    Bob Russell     204-775-9887

Alberta Ship Model Society                      Alberta, Canada
    Meetings:  2nd Tuesday of each month, 7 pm, NMSC NUNSUCH,
        Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
    Contact:    Alan Thain
                5 Gilmore Ave.
                Sherwood Park
                Alberta, Canada  T8A 2X7

The Kelowna Model Boat Club             British Columbia, Canada
    Contact:    Joh H. Harland
                448 Avery Rd.
                RR #4 S2C16
                Kelowna BC  V1Y 7R3     (604) 764-7364

Victoria Model Shipbuilding Society     British Columbia, Canada
    Meetings: Second Thursday of each month;  In Summer, at large model
                pond; in Winter, at Royal Oak Scout Hall.
    Contact:    Box 45083
                Mayfair Postal Outlet
                Victoria, BC, Canada  V8Z 7G9

North Western Model Shipwright's Association            England
    Meetings:  Saturdays at 11:00 am at Edge Hill Cottage, Chorley
    Contact:    H. R. Snape, Chairman
                10 Wendover Rd.
                Carleton
                Poulton-le-Fylde, England  FY6 7PT

The Scale Sailing Association                           England
    Contact:    The Scale Sailing Association
                14 Palace Road
                Crouch End
                London N8 8QJ
                England

                NAUTICAL SOCIETIES
                ==================

Nautical Research Guild                 (U. S.) $30.00 membership
    Publishes the quarterly journal Nautical Research Journal
    Contact:    Nautical Research Guild
                19 Pleasant Street
                Everett, MA  02149      (617) 389-2505

Scale Ship Modeler's Association
    Clubs interested in becoming members should contact:
                Matt O'Neill, SSMA Club Director
                1880 Emmanual Church Rdd
                Huntington, Maryland  20639

Ships-In-Bottles Association Of America California
    Contact:    Don Hubbard
                P. O. Box 180550
                Coronado, CA  92178-0550

SubCommittee
    Deals with submarines of all nations and all eras, including
    Science Fiction.
    Contact:    Lester E. Hopper, Membership Chairman
                3530 Mimosa Court
                New Orleans, LA  70131-8305     (504) 392-8937 FAX

Society for Nautical Research
    Publishes the quarterly journal The Nariner's Mirror
    Contact:    Hon. Secretary Derek G. Law, Librarian
                King's College London, University of London
                Strand
                London WC2 2LS
                England

Nautical Archaeology Society
    Publishes the quarterly journal International journal of Nautical
        Archaeology and Underwater Exploration in association with
        Academic press.
    Contact:    Institute of Archaeology
                Gordon Square
                London WC1H OPY
                England

Arbeitskreis historischer Schiffbau
    German.  Publishes the quarterly journal Das Logbuch.

Foreningen Allmogebatar
    Swedish.  Publishes the quarterly journal Trabiten.

Klubb Maritim
    Swedish.  Publishes the journal Batologen six times per year.

Kontaktudvalget for dansk maritim historie- og samfundsforskning
    Danish.  Publishes the anual yearbook Martim Kontakt.

Marinehistorisk Selskab
    Danish. Publishes the quarterly journal Marinehistorisk Tidskrift.
    Contact: Marinehistorisk Selskab, Overgaden oven Vandet 58,
        DK-1415 K&oslas; benhaven K, Denmark

Marinarkeologiska Samfundet
    Swedish.  Publishes the quarterly journal Marinarkeologisk Tidskift.

Sjo Samfundet
    Swedish.  Publishes the annual yearbook Forum Navale.


author: John Kopf

subject: Ship Modeling FAQ, Part 07/15 (Q.33-37: 26K)

text:
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part07
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 2 August 1996 00:00:00 GMT
Last-modified: 1 June 1996

This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 07) on ship modeling.

Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with.  The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.

This material should be considered copyright by the author(s).  This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material.  Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).

The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.

        ###############################################

33.     Why do [your choice] cost so much?
    A:  This is an interesting question, for it illustrates the trade
        offs inherent when your modeling efforts become a business.  I
        have had some limited exposure with this (I have done some
        pattern work for The Scale Shipyard in the past) - and the time
        spent on a master is extrordinary.  For the last 3 nights I
        have been working on a 1/16" 5" twin gun mount.  When it is
        finished I will have about 9 hours into the pattern.  Will it
        be perfect?  No, I am leaving off some detail that would be
        tedious and even more time consuming to put on (rivets, etc)
        simplifying other detail (hinges for doors) and only indicate
        where other detail goes if the modeler cares to add it (grab
        rails).  Why?  There is a couple of curves here.  One is that
        adding complexity to a part shortens mold life when dealing
        with RTV rubber.   Little pieces degrade over time, and it does
        not take long for the mold to be useless. My time to build
        masters is limited, and the law of diminishing returns applies
        here.  Lastly, economics plays a part - there is a finite
        amount that most modelers will pay for a certain part.
         (The really sad thing is when someone puts hours into making
        a part, and a modeler buys one and copies it for his models,
        or worse, for his friends.  It is only through multiple unit
        sales that companies can hope to realize a profit - thus keep
        is business - thus produce new stuff.  I have been told by
        several small casting companies how frustrating it is when a
        modeler orders, essentially, one of everything, and then is
        never heard from again.)
         I hope that the Enterprise kit does well.  Chances are even
        at that price level he is not planning to retire soon on the
        profits.  8-)  It remains to be seen what the demand for such
        a kit will be.  Ultimately modelers have control over the
        quality of kits coming out.  By supporting ambitious projects
        such as this you assure more will follow.  If they do not do
        well then we must settle for less detailed, simpler kits at a
        lesser price.
         Aside from the fact that I believe it just about impossible
        to 'rip off' someone in the course of a hobby - after all, it
        is not a neccesity, just a pastime, and if prices go too high
        you can choose another - you have a very simple alternative;
        scratchbuild.
         When making a pattern I start with a chunk of acrylic, shape
        it with metal working machines, finish it with wood working
        machines and hand tools to a 2000 grit finish, detail the part
        using a combination of brass and plastic pieces, individually
        made, and then ship it to the manufacuturer for production.  If
        you feel that the finished item is worth it, then purchase it.
        If you think prices are too high, then make the items yourself
        and then market them at a lesser price - that too is what the
        free market is all about.  (Kurt  Greiner)
         ****Not to mention the most overlooked fact of all: If a
        modeler really wants to build a $1000 ship kit, rather than just
        "acquire" it, the number of dollars per hour of entertainment
        is probably cheaper than renting a movie on video. A kit of
        this magnitude would likely take at least 500 hours to
        complete to a reasonable standard, probably more. That seems
        to be pretty cheap fun if you ask me.  (Hawk137)
         ***The price of the kit is not an issue.  Most of BWN's
        products are out of my range, so my only experience is seeing
        them at displays of BWN and other vendors at shows.  If the
        market will support the costs of BWN's products, then so be it.
        Hopefully, the escalating costs of unique ships is not a
        trend, but if it is, then all of us must be doing quite well.
        I understand that R&D, as well as labor and production, are
        expensive propositions in today's market, and a business has
        the right to make a profit.
         As to the assertion that "everyone wants something for
        nothing", this is not true, IMHO.  Modelers want high quality
        kits at fair and reasonable prices.  Some may consider $950 a
        fair and reasonable price, and others may not, but this
        determination is in the opinion of the modeler, and not the
        producer.  The criticism of the price should have been
        expected, and a reasonable response should have been formed
        long before all of this transpired.  All of this is in the
        past though, and hindsight is 20/20, so I agree with the main
        point of RBartolacc in that we should all get back to the
        hobby. (REDBOZO6)
         ***'Twould be great to have more kits available of ships,
        boats, and other things that make their way upon the oceans!
         Blue Water is OK (no offense intended) but maybe too expensive
        for many of us.  As I've posted before, I have reached the
        point where I absolutely refuse to purchase Japanese (Tamiya,
        Fujimi, Hasegawa, Aokii, SkyWave, etc., kits because of
        comments I've read about 'charging as much as the market will
        bear.'
         What *is* the cost of having injection mold masters made?
        After all, for any model, someone along the way has to make a
        master (or steal parts!).  Perhaps. if we as ship modelers want
        access to new kits, maybe this is the time to get together and
        develop and market our own - at cost or close to it!  We want
        the models, and I'm sure we can generate a list of preferences
        quickly.   Let's get some sort of list generated, talk among
        ourselves, make the masters, and do it!
         things to consider:
         Scales:  1:700. 1:350. 1:192 (or 1:200), etc.
         Mixed media; resin + aftermarket details; injected moldings;
          wood with plastic/pewter/Britannia details, etc.
         Most of us tend to model warships.  I would personally like to
        have access to a *good* Liberty or Victory or T2 or even C1 in
        1:350.  Other 'wants' include vessels from the transition
        (U.S.Navy) from sail to steam, particularly 1865-1905 period.
         We're not a big market, face it!  Possibly, if we cooperate,
        we can do one heck of a lot more for each other than any *major*
        kit manufacturer would ever attempt.  Any Ideas? (RAIcorn824)

34.     Where can I get 1/72 scale coast guard decals?  I'm building an
        hh-60.
    A:  Superscale #109 carries US Coast Guard markings for the HC-130,
        HU-16 and HH-3F.  You may be able to adapt these markings for
        the HH-60 (if it's not the most recent paint scheme you're
        looking for).  (Abe Lynn)
         ***A generic set of Coast Guard markings are available on
        Super Scale sheet No. 72-109. Hope this helps.
        {mailto:[email]}

35.     Am modeling a Fletcher (Revell 1/305) and was wondering if
        anyone could offer some up to date colors, FS numbers, etc.?
    A:  Floquil has come out with a series of WWII marine paints that
        match USN colors:
         a. Navy Blue 5-N - (Floquil) 818598 \
         b. Ocean Gray 5-O -          818596 |
         c. Weather Deck Blue 20-B    818600 |
         d. Haze Grey 5-H             818594 | - these are the Floquil
         e. Deck House Blue           818704 |         part nos.
         f. Pale Blue 5-P             818590 |
         g. Light Grey 5-L            818592 /
          Tom Walkowiak runs The Floating Drydock, a model
        shop/reference house (?). He has a vast library of photos of
        USN vessels, and can provide 8" x 10" glossies for given hull
        numbers and time periods.  He also sells U.S. Navy Camouflage
        & Markings for $7.99, which lists all the camouflage patterns
        used by the USN during WWII.  His address is:
          The Floating Drydock
          c/o General Delivery
          Kresgeville, PA 18333
         I have his U.S. Navy Camouflage & Markings book.  The book is
        a fair compendium of everything one would wish to know about
        U.S. Navy Camouflage & Markings in WW II.  However, if your
        worried about ABSOLUTE ACCURACY, you need to determine which of
        the hundreds of Fletchers you'll be doing - the camouflage
        patterns vary.  In fact, The Floating Drydock also sells (for
        a few bucks, I think) a list of most USN WWII vessels with the
        camouflage measures that each had during the war.  The Floating
        Drydock sells camouflage sheets for most measures and ship
        classes.  (Rob Robinson)
         ***I have both, along with their color chipset.  The C&M book
        is very useful for things you don't think about until you get
        there like the horizontal colors, both decks and undersides of
        whatever.  Highly recommended, and I only wish there was
        something like it for other navies.
         BTW, the list of USN vessels/measures is only for those in
        measures 31/32/33, not 21 or 22.  And they don't mention the
        time period.  Since ships seemed to change  colors like new
        dresses, ...
         Per the aforementioned "USN Camouflage 1 of the WW2 Era" from
        Floating Drydock:
         - "After [1946-47] almost all vessels adopted Measure 13,
         solid haze gray (5-H) as peacetime paint", until the next set
         of regulations came out.
         - After March 1953, use either Measure 27 (same as 13, above)
         or 17 (also known as 14) which uses Ocean Grey vice Haze Grey.
         For both these measures, "all steel decks and all other
         horizontal steel surfaces exposed to aerial observation shall
         be painted either smooth dark gray deck type A or non-skid
         dark gray deck type B.  All overheads and the undersides of
         all other external horizontal surfaces shall be painted glossy
         or base white".
          In other words, just like a modern ship, except for details of
        the color shades and masting. (Allan "battleships!" Plumb)
         ***Try Alan Raven's "Fletcher-Class Destroyers", available from
        the Naval Institute.  There're four different camo schemes
        sketched, which show Port and starboard views, deck views, and
        sections showing mount & superstructure faces.
        {mailto:[email]}
         ***Two good refs:  Flush Decks & Four Pipes (a classic, now in
        2nd edition, and probably available from USNI, Annapolis, MD)
        and "The Destroyer Campbeltown", by Al Ross, one of the
        "Anatomy of the Ship" series from Conway Maritime Press /
        United States Naval Institute (depends on which continent you
        call home).
         BTW, new and very excellent reference volume on Gearing/Sumner
        class DD's just publiched by USNI. Author is Bob Sumrall, one
        of the curators at the USNA Museum.  Expensive book, but
        Nothing Else Even Comes Close!!!  Lots of excellent photos,
        drawings, including color renditions.  My Dad (departed now
        nearly 30 years) was Propulsion Systems Engineer for members of
        the class built by consolidated - I have lots of original
        white-lines on the ships.  Sumrall's book is as good as, if not
        better, than having *all* the original documentation, because
        he goes into as-built, as-employed details. (RAIcorn824)

36.     How do I make small, inexpensive cast plastic fittings?
    A:  How easy it is depends on what shape you want to cast.  If the
        object is flat on one side (e.g., water-tight doors), or can be
        made as a set of components that are flat and assembled later,
        it's fairly easy.
         The MAJOR expense is the cost of a can of RTV (Room Temperature
        Vulcanizing) rubber...get the smallest can you can find.  Your
        local hobby shop may have it, or can order it for you.  Price
        this out FIRST -- then decide if you want to continue!
         There are a number of ways to do this; I'll describe one that
        I've used.  I needed to make up a set of 8 steam cargo winches
        for a WWI vintage freighter.  Each was essentially a rectangular
        frame with various "bits" sticking out here and there.
         I decided to break the pattern into 10 parts: base, 2 sides, 2
        "cranks", 2 cams, 1 spool, 1 "head" and a gear; these would be
        assembled using brass rod.
         The base was a 1/2 x 5/8 rectangle of .015 styrene, this had
        two 3/16 x 3/16 x 1/16 blocks of styrene for steam boxes glued
        on, and some of the steam piping.
         The two sides (mirror images of one another) were .015 styrene,
        properly shaped. A round boss was added as well as a flange
        around the top and side, and a steam cylinder (a turned spool
        bedded into a carrier, both from lucite).  Also, more steam
        piping.
         The cranks and cams were 3/16 slices off a lucite rod; the
        cranks had a couple of notches filed into the edge to become
        "T" shaped.
         The spool was turned from 1/4 lucite; it had a slice of a 1/4
        10-tooth plastic pinion gear salvaged from a slot car.
         The head was turned from wood, 3/16 d x 3/16 long.
         The gear was a slice of another, 8-tooth pinion.
         NONE of these pieces had severe undercuts!
         All necesary holes were located, and either drilled through
        (on the thin stuff) or at least "dimpled" to locate for later
        drilling.
         I next took a piece of scrap plate glass (about 3" x 4" -- I
        had a lot of that left over after the last earthquake), and
        CA'ed the back of all the parts to it in a reasonably close
        pattern.
         I made a "fence" from cardboard -- just a box without top or
        bottom; approximately 1 1/4 x 2 3/4 x 1/2 high. This was
        temporarily taped to the glass surrounding the patterns.
         I smeared the inside of the box, the glass, and the patterns
        with vasoline thinned with a bit of lighter fluid as a release
        agent.
         Mix up a small amount of the RTV; try not to get any bubbles in
        it. Vibration helps -- try one of the Dremel engravers, or a
        jig saw -- anything that will vibrate and shake out the bubbles.
         Paint a thin coat of the RTV over the patterns...the thinner
        the better to avoid bubbles.  Do it again.  After a couple of
        coats, pour the rest of the RTV into the box level with the
        top, and let it set up.
         Pry the now-solid rubber block off...that's your mould.  The
        "top" of the mould should be nice and flat (from the glass),
        with the "prints" from the patterns as cavities in the surface.
         I used 5-minute Epoxy for the castings.
         Again paint the rubber with the vasoline mould release, mix up
        a small batch of epoxy (post'em note pads make a wonderful
        disposable palette for this) and fill all the cavities.  Since
        it is clear, you can see bubbles and poke them with a toothpick
        or pin.  Use an old razor blade to level the top of the epoxy
        (that will be the back of the individual castings). Once the
        epoxy on the palette is hard, you can remove the castings from
        the mould.  Being rubber, you can flex it to help get the parts
        out.
         Warning...the epoxy does tend to stick slightly to the mould.
        if there is a bubble in the rubber adjacent to this, the rubber
        will tear there and leave the bubble exposed. The next casting
        you make from the mould will have tiny "beads" at this sites,
        as your casting cavity includes the bubbles which WILL fill
        with epoxy.  A few of these can be sliced off the parts, but
        eventually the mould will become unusable.
         How long that takes depends on how much care you took to avoid
        having bubbles in the rubber.  (John Kopf)
        ***There are two main mold materials that have very different
        applications. RTV mold material is great, you can make undercut
        molds.  But, it is expensive and has limited shelf life.  Other
        is plaster of paris.  Cheap, but parts must have relief angle,
        absolutely NO undercuts or straight sides.  Limited shelf life
        also, but at price this is not a problem.
         I tried to do a zero relief cast of a hubcap that had a short,
        straight cylinder.  Got the mold off the part okay.  Then, put
        LOTS of release agent in mold.  Still, cannot get resin part
        out of mold.  Resin castings do NOT SHRINK!
         For metal parts, you may be able to get away with straight side
        sections in simple parts, as metal does shrink a bit.
         But basically, we have the dilemma of an excellent material
        (RTV) that is expensive, or a cheap material that limits the
        type of parts you can cast. (Don Stauffer)
        ***Other methods of mold-making and casting include the quick
        and expediant method of modeling clay (oil clay) and superglue.
        If you need a duplicate of an existing part that isn't too
        large or complicated, it can be made of cyanoacrylate(sp?). Get
        some modeling clay (the greyish sometimes oily stuff that never
        hardens), work it up untill its fairly plyable, then simply
        press the part to be duplicated into it to make a simple
        negative impression. You might need to try it a few times to
        get a clean and clear impression. Then, drip in a bit of CA
        glue over the whole surface and then a bit of filler
        (microbeads, or for both filler and quick setting, baking soda,
        which flash cures the CA). A few more layers of CA and filler
        will build up the object to the desired thickness. However, it
        works best if you don't rush the process with very thick
        layers, as they will be very slow to cure, even with soda or
        accellerator. Then, pull the clay away from the object, and
        with a bit of paint thinner clean off any clay that is still
        sticking to the object and there you go.
        (Bev Clark/Steve Gallacci)

37.     A friend of mine told me that CA glues (superglues, Zap-A-Gap,
        etc.) will severely weaken their bonds over time and may
        eventually turn to white powder.  Can anyone out there confirm
        or deny the above statement?
    A.  I remember a similar scare back in 1968 when I was getting back
        into models after college - Krazy Glue hadn't appeared on the
        market yet. A local hobby shop was importing the first CA we'd
        seen from Japan (Pearl Chemical). The rumor started that it
        would only last a year, so many of us went back to epoxies etc.
        The rumor was finally discredited and we returned to CA. I used
        it mostly on metal military miniatures and plastic armour all
        of which were completely painted - and they are still in one
        piece. I've known it to fail if you put it on too thick or on
        an unprepared dirty surface as and put alot of stress on the
        fix. I've also tried to open a tight joint with acetone solvent
        with limited success. The stuff does seem to last. It would be
        interesting to get a chemists opinion. (V. L. Kraut)
         ***Regarding CYA's.  I am a coatings chemist that uses CYA's
        frequently. Couple of points to remember about CYA's is that
        they are soluble in many organic solvents (acetone, methanol)
        and WATER.  Also, if the glue is cured to quickly (by using too
        much "accelerator") the heat generated will cause the glue to
        foam and reduce its strength.  I have had CYA joints exposed
        to methanol glow fuels fail, but i have never seen the glues I
        have used degrade over time.  However, it is very possible that
        years of high humidity, sunlight, or solvent exposure could
        destroy CYA. (Dave Seuferling)
         ***I've got two ship models, wood, plank on bulkhead, that I
        put together in the winter of 1982-83.  I used regular Crazy
        Glue on both and reinforced the joints between the bulkheads
        and strakes with white glue.  All the rest of the glue joints
        were strictly Crazy Glue.  No joints have separated so far, and
        neither of the models are in a glass case, so they are exposed
        to whatever the ambient room conditions are.  I used the same
        glue on a double planked hull, still far from finished, and on
        outer layerstrake has separated at the bow (no big deal to fix
        it).
         Two out of three of the above hulls have extreme compound
        curves at both bow and stern, so the joints had to have been
        under some stress, even though I hot bent them during
        construction.
         I have a fouth that I started in 84 and am still working on
        that I used Crazy Glue - wood and leather on.  The hull is
        fully nailed (2000+ nails), so even if the glue lets go, I
        don't think the planks are going anywhere.  This version of
        Crazy Glue turned out to be a lot better to work with than
        the original.  It's a bit thicker, so its more forgiving about
        slight gaps or irregularities in the joints, takes a bit longer
        to set up so tricky pieces can be coaxed into place a bit
        easier than the "instant"bond of the original allowed.
         Even if you don't want to use it as a construction glue, one
        place this stuff really shines is in threading small blocks
        when you're doing the rigging and setting the knots and
        fastenings to belaying pins and cleats. A bit of glue on the
        end of a piece of string firms it up so it becomes its own
        needle.  A long diagonal cut through the glued string creates a
        very fine point, and passing the string through the tiny hole
        in a block is no problem at all.  Rat lines and other knotted
        crossings of lines stay put if you dab a bit of glue on them,
        and if you use the original formula for this purpose, it
        disappears completely into the thread.  The W&L formula
        sometime stays visible if you use too much.
         Be aware that some shops that sell models don't accept cryo
        based glues though, so if you're building to market, check with
        the shop before you spend a lot of time building a boat they
        won't want. (Jack Silvia)
         ***One thing I have noticed is that alot of people are claiming
        to have built models of various types using CA adhesives that
        are 20 years old and aren't falling apart.
         One thing that HAS become more prevalent in the use of CA
        Adhesives is the use of "accelerators" and "ZIP Kickers" with
        the slower curing varieties of CA.  This can produce quite
        different results than the traditional methods of using CA.
        The availability of accelerators has also allowed people to use
        CA as a filler as well as an adhesive.
         Problems can occur when an accelerator is used on a thick
        application of CA.  The accelerator can instantly cure the
        SURFACE of the application, but the center stays liquid, and
        MAY not be able to cure properly if the surface hardening
        completely seals the center off from air.  This results in a
        soft core that may never fully cure, and is not structurally
        sound as an adhesive.
         I ran into this when I used CA to fill all of the windows in a
        Heller 1/72 Constellation in order to convert it to a C/EC-121.
        Some of the windows fills retained a "bubble" of uncured CA.
         It is better to do this type of operation in multiple thin
        applications, than trying to do it in one thicker one and use
        accelerator!
         I wonder how many CA problems are related to the one I had!
        Hopefully, we all learn from our mistakes.  (Steve Kennedy)
        ***I've recently had a very strange experience with them that
        has me baffled, and I'd like to learn how to not repeat it....
         A couple of days ago, I was coating the interiors of cardboard
        model rocket tubes with CA in order to strengthen them.  I was
        using a store brand (I can give you the manufacturer if you
        need it) that was a couple of months old.  At first I was using
        medium, but then I ran out and switched to thick.  My finger
        was covered with the stuff, and a bit after I switched to the
        thick, I started feeling a sharp pain in that finger.  I thought
        it would go away, but it just getting stronger and stronger --
        it started feeling like my finger was on fire.
         I put my finger under water, which seemed to help.  But a few
        minutes after I would take my finger out of the water, the heat
        would start coming back.  The glue was too thick to wash off,
        and not set enough to peel off, so my husband tried cleaning it
        off with paint thinner.  That hurt too much, so he got some
        debonder, and eventually we got it all off, put some burn
        medicine on, and wrapped my finger in a bandage.  Everything
        was fine after that....
         I know it wasn't an allergic reaction because my husband got
        some on his finger while he was cleaning me up, and he started
        burning too.  I also know that CA generates heat when it cures
        -- but my husband didn't have that much on his finger....  So,
        I was curious if you might have any ideas on what caused it to
        burn so much?  Do you think it might have been mixing the
        medium and thick (both from the same manufacturer)???  Could it
        have been the age of the stuff???  Or could it just have been
        something with the brand????  Or could it have been the fact
        that I had so much on my finger????
         As I said, I'd like to avoid this in the future (and warn
        others about it too), but unless I know what exactly happened,
        there's not much that I could do that makes sense.....
        (Paul & Victoria Heisner)
         ***CA was developed as a way to "stitch" wounds together fast
        in the field, that's why you shouldn't get it on your fingers,
        and the chemical reaction involved probabely caused the burning
        of your finger. In short, don't get it on your skin!
        (Olaf Kievit)
         ***Bottom line -- Don't rely on a glue joint alone (ANY type
        of glue)...PIN the pieces to gether as well (using screws,
        nails, dowels, splines, etc., if at all possible.
         Take care when using CA...it was originally developed as an
        alternative to sutures in surgery.
         However, it IS handy to have somethig set almost instantly...
        I regularly use it in conjunction with other glues (white and
        yellow) to tack pieces together until the "slow" glue can set
        up -- instant clamps!  (John Kopf)


subject: Ship Modeling FAQ, Part 14/15 (Internet: 9K)

text:
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part14
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 2 August 1996 00:00:00 GMT
Last-modified: 29 June 1996

This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 14) on ship modeling.

Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with.  The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.

This material should be considered copyright by the author(s).  This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material.  Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).

The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.

        ###################################################

104.    What's available on the internet?
     A. LOTS!

        What's available depends on what "access methods" you have
        available.

 NOTE:  I record these addresses, but don't necessarily visit them on a
        regular basis.  Thus, I may not know if they "disappear".  If
        you try to access one and it appears to be no longer available,
        please send me Email at: mailto:[email] ; I'll check
        it out and delete the reference if it's really gone.  Thanks.

 NOTE:  See part 01 for the interpretation of these addresses.

                        LIST SERVERS
                        ############

These are available via Email; they're essentially newsgroups for Email:

Seaways Publishing, Inc. sponsor a special e-mail list for shipmodelers,
"shipmodel-list", in hopes of bringing together the talents and
resources of all kinds of shipmodelers in one place to discuss workshop
problems. All eras and types will be discussed, static and operational,
and all materials will be welcome. This should be the perfect place to
compare construction techniques, materials, adhesives, fixing and
finishing agents, sources for plans, data and materials, tools and so
forth. This is the nuts and bolts list (or rather the treenails and
rivets list).  To subscribe (or unsubscribe):
     mailto:[email]
...In the body of the message, state:
        To subscribe, send the one-word message "subsingle"; this
        request format will get you each individual message. If you
        would rather get the list messages in groups, send the message
        "subscribe" instead, and you will get the digest form of the
        list (It will be mailed out about once a day).

Seaways Publishing, Inc. also sponsors a second multi-specialty nautical
research list,"infonaut-list", in hopes of bringing together
the talents and resources of nautical and maritime historians,
shipmodelers, nautical archaeologists, marine artists, archivists,
museum specialists, full-size replica designers and builders and all
others interested in the design, construction and operation of ships
and boats. All eras and types will be discussed.
To subscribe (or unsubscribe):
    mailto:[email]
        To subscribe, send the one-word message "subsingle"; this
        request format will get you each individual message. If you
        would rather get the list messages in groups, send the message
        "subscribe" instead, and you will get the digest form of the
        list (It will be mailed out about once a day).

ALso check out their web page at:  http://www.seaways.com .

Questions or suggestions about the list can be sent to Clayton Feldman
at:
    mailto:[email]

The Cyberspace Model Yacht Club, A Model Boating Forum, courtesy of Dave
Mainwaring.
The focus is on Operational Models powered by Sail, Steam or Electric
power. Marine Modelers, Scale and Semi-scale Model Boat Builders, Radio
Control Yachting (sail) enthusiasts and others interested in model
boating activities are encouraged to take part in the forum.
This is a forum for the recreational modelship builder to discuss model
building, model regattas, and club activities.
TO SUBSCRIBE: send the following email (mailto:[email]):
    TO: [email]
    subject:
 text:
    subscribe model-boating {your-email-address}

There is an nautical archaeology list called SUB-ARCH.  To subscribe to
SUB-ARCH:
      mailto:[email]
 with no subject and the following text:
      SUBSCRIBE SUB-ARCH {your name here}

MARHST-L is an INTERNATIONAL electronic discussion group sponsored by
the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston with the assistance of
Queen's University at Kingston.  Subscription is free, and subscribers
will automatically receive  messages in their computer mailboxes:
        mailto:[email]
 with no subject and the following text:
        SUBSCRIBE MARHST-L (your name)

TALLSHIP (Sailing and  Operation of Traditional Sailing Vessels):
    mailto:[email]
        ....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
            subscribe tallship {your name}
        ...only.

SHIPS (current maritime activity):
   mailto:[email]
        ....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
            Subscribe Ships {your name}
        ...only.

SEAROOM-L (discussions of the books of Patrick O'Brian):
   mailto: [email]
        ....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
            Subscribe SEAROOM-L
        ...only.

YACHT-L (sail racing):
    mailto:[email]
        ....with no SUBJECT and the body containing:
            SUBSCRIBE YACHT-L {your name}
        ....only.

MARITIME NETWORK is a biweekly newsletter focusing on communication,
networking,and database news within the maritime community.
Submissions and articles are welcomed. To subscribeo:
    mailto:MARITIME [email]

---I don't know if this is the same as the next item...

    OTHER

There is a COMMERCIAL service called Diamond Light Ocean Services, an on-line
marine information provider.  If you're interested, contact:
    mailto:[email]

    -- Fee is $12.50 per month, with one hour free access/(24-hour)day.

                                Advanced Access
                                ===============

                                USENET NEWS GROUPS
                                ##################

Note:  These may not all be carried on all servers!

Check out:

    news:rec.models.scale       (english, general topics)
    news:rec.models.rc          (english; RC models)
    news:rec.models.rc.water    (english; RC models)
    news:de.rec.modelle         (German)
    news:t-netz.modelbau        (German)
    news:zer.t-znet,modelbahn   (German)
    news:fj.rec.models          (Japanese)

Useful stuff can also be found in:
    news:rec.woodworking
    news:rec.boats
    news:rec.boats.building
    news:rec.boats.paddle
    news:rec.boats.racing
    news:rec.crafts.metalworking
    news:rec.jewelery
    news:sci.archaeology

                                FAQs
                                ####

Many of these groups have FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions) available:

The rec.crafts.metalworking FAQ can be found at:
    http://www.paranoia.com:80/~filipg/HTML/LINK/Metal_idx.html
 .. and is archived at:
    http://PLAINS.UWYO.EDU/~metal/index.html .

The rec.woodworking FAQ's can be found in the directory
  ftp://ftp.cs.rochester.edu/pub/archives/rec.woodworking/ .

FAQ's can also be accessed via the WWW.  The main WWW FAQ archive
site is at:
    http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/FAQ-List.html

...and This FAQ is maintained at:
    http://www.seaways.com/faq/faqind.html !!!

                                FTP access
                                ##########

Navy Ships:  An (IMMENSE!!) list of current ships by type, archived at:
    ftp://byrd.mu.wvnet.edu/pub/history/military/USN .

"R/C OnLine", An Electronic Magazine for the R/C Modeler (R/C OnLine is
published monthly on the 15th, or so; each issue is a .ZIP file), at:
    ftp://ftp.gate.net/pub/users/rconline .

                                GOPHER access
                                #############

"Canoe/Kayak" at:
    gopher://ftp.std.com/11/nonprofits/canoe.kayak/ .

"US Naval Fighting Ships" at:
    gopher://wiretap.spies.com/11/Gov/US-History/Naval .

"Pictures of United States Navy Ships",  The navy has a web site that
has a large (>160) collection of images on line.  Earliest are
paintings or drawings, but there are photos from surprisingly early.
All ships are pre-WWII.   Index at:
    gopher://gopher.nara.gov/00/inform/dc/audvis/still/navy.txt
  Images at:
    gopher://gopher.nara.gov/11/inform/dc/audvis/still/navy .


subject: Ship Modeling FAQ, Part 13/15 (Books: 25K)

text:
Archive-name: ship-models-faq/part13
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Expires: Fri, 2 August 1996 00:00:00 GMT
Last-modified: 1 June 1996

This is the Frequently Asked Questions FAQ (part 13) on ship modeling.

Obligatory Disclaimer: The information contained in this message was
contributed by individuals, who, unless otherwise indicated, speak
only for themselves and not the institutions or businesses they are
associated with.  The author(s) and editor(s) of this material make no
warranties as to the correctness of the information provided.

This material should be considered copyright by the author(s).  This
material may be redistributed for non-commercial use without explicit
permission of the author(s) as long as the text is used exactly as is
(except for reformatting) and the author(s) is given full written credit
for the material.  Commercial use requires explicit permission of the
author(s).

The questions being addressed are listed in part 01 of the FAQ.

        ###############################################

103.    What are some good books... ?
    A:  What you will consider a "good book" depends GREATLY upon the
        period and style of modeling you do -- a book on plastic
        submarines will prove of little use if you are researching
        ships of ancient Egypt.

        Instead, the following list(s) are by general topic.  Prices,
        where shown, indicate the book is currently in print.  these
        are the LIST price; such books are frequently available for
        much less in "remainder" book sales or as used books.

        RECOMMENDED BOOKS
        -----------------

"The Neophite Shipmodeller's Jackstay", George F. Campbell; Softbound,
62 pages
    Probably the best basic introduction to wooden shipmodeling.

"Ship Modeler's Shop Notes", Nautical Research Guild; Softbound, 216
pages, ($19.95)
    Practical book for all ship modelers;  a compilation of shipmodeling
    articles from the Nautical Research Journal.

        SHIPMODELING TECHNIQUES
        -----------------------

"The Ship Model Builder's Assistant", Charles G. Davis; Softbound, 288
pages ($6.95)
    Detailed descriptions and drawings of masts, rigging, and major
    fittings of American clippers and packets.

"the Built-Up Ship Model", Charles G. Davis; Softbound, 256 pages
($6.95)
    A detailed guide to building a ship model, in this case the brig
    Lexington (American, 1775).

"Plank-onFrame Models", Harold A Underhill, Brown, Son, and Ferguson,
1960.
    Two volume set detailing the building and rigging of the Brigintine
    Leon.

"Modeling the the Brig Irene", E. W. Petrejus, N. V. Uitgeversmasschappi
"Ed Esch", Holland, 1970.

"Boat Modeling the Easy Way  A Scratch Builder's Guide", Harold H.
"Dynamite" Payson; Paperback, 195 pages, illustrations, photographs,
8 1/2 x 11 ($19.95) ISBN 0-87742-320-2

"Boat Modeling with Dynamite Payson - A Step-by-step Guide to Building
Models of Small Craft", Harold H. "Dynamite" Payson; Paperback, 182
pages, 280 illustrations, 8 1/2 x 11, ($19.95)

"Ship Modeling from Scratch - Tips and Techniques for Building Without
Kits", Edwin B. Leaf, Paperback, 184 pages, drawings, 7 3/8 x 9 1/8
($17.95) ISBN 0-87742-389-X

"Building Plank-on-Frame Ship Models", Ron McCarthy; 8vo, 192 pages,
illustrated, Conway Maritime Press, London, 1994 ($34.95)

"Shipbuilding in Miniature", by Donald McNarry, New York, Arco  1983
ISBN 0-668-05800-5

"Ships in Miniature", by Lloyd McCaffery, Cedarsburg, Phoenix
Publications 1988  ISBN 0-9615021-3-4

"Building Warship Models", P. C. Coker, 313 pages, illustrated, R. L.
Briant Company, Columbia, South Carolina, 1974; ISBN 0-914432-01-X.

        PERIOD SHIP RESEARCH
        --------------------

"Navy Board Ship Models, 1650-1750", John Franklin; Hardbound, 192
pages, 150 photos, 16 color plates($36.95)
    Survey of dockyard models, their construction and function.

"Shipcarver's Handbook", Jay S. Hanna, Hardcover, 108 pages, 7 1/8 x
10 (17.95) ISBN 0-937822-14-0
    Design and lettering, set-up and carving techniques, woods, tool
    sharpening, finishing and gold leafing (full-size modern practice).

"Ashley Book of Knots", Clifford W. Ashley, Hardcover, 610 pages, 8 3/4
x 11 1/4 ($50.00) ISBN 0-385-04025-4
    Standard reference work on knots, splicing, etc.

                RIGGING ETC.

"The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritesail Topmast, 1600-1720",
R. C. Anderson, Conway Maritime Press, England, 1984.

"The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815", Brian Lavery,
Conway Maritime Press, England, 1987.

Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860", James Lees,
Conway Maritime Press, England, 1984.

"The Construction and Fitting of the English Man-of-War 1650-1850",
Peter Goodwin, Conway Maritime Press, England, 1987.

Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier", Harold A.
Underhill, Brown, Son, and Ferguson, Scotland, 1946.

"The Americal FIshing Scooners 1825-1935", Howard I. Chapelle, W. W.
Norton & Company, New York, 1973.
    Covers all aspects of the "Glochester" fishing schooners and their
    fittings.

        SPECIFIC SHIP AND SHIP-TYPE RESEARCH
        ------------------------------------

"Old Ironsides - The Rise, Decline and Resurrection of the USS
Constitution", Thomas C. Gillmer, Hardcover, 239 pages, photographs,
7 1/2 x 9 1/2 ($24.95)  ISBN 0-87742-346-6

"Die Kieler Hansekogge, der Nachbau eines historischen Segelschiffes
von 1380", Baykowski, U., RKE-Verlag, Kiel 1991

"The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships", C. Nepean Longridge, Model & Allied
Publications, England, 1955.
    Primarily concerned with building a model of H.M.S. Victory, but
    lots of useful information on Napoleonic War practices.

"Conway's History of the Ship, The Age of the Galley", originally
published by Brassey's (UK) ltd. 1995.  Published in the US/Canada by
the Naval Institue Press, 1995.  ISBN 1-55750-024-X.
    There are some good articles, with enough reconstructed detail to
    use as a basis for modeling bronze age-sixteenth century galleys
    (mostly warships).

The Anatomy of the Ship series of books. Each volume covers a specific
vessel (list $32.95 each)
    The Aircraft Carrier Intrepid
    The Aircraft Carrier Victorious
    The Type VII U-Boat
    The Type XXI U-Boat
    The Destroyer Campbeltown
    The Cruiser Belfast
    The Destroyer Escort England
    The 74-Gun Ship Bellona
    The Submarine Alliance
    The Battleship Warspite
    The Battleship Yamato
    The Destroyer The Sullivans
    The Cruiser Bartolomeo Colleoni
    The Frigate Diana
    The 20-Gun ship Blandford
    The Susan Constant, 1607
    The Armed Transport Bounty
    The Royal Yacht Caroline
    The Bomb Vessel Granado, 1742

The following reviews are from John Berg:

The 20-Gun Ship Blandford by Peter Goodwin. Naval Institute Press,
Annapolis, 1988.  Hardback, 119 pages, 9.5 inches high by 10.5. $36.95.
Drawings, plans, model photos. ISBN 0-87021-058-0.
        Provides superb graphics.  The Blandford, while not quite the
        size of the HMS Surprise, a 5th rate like the Surprise and
        gives the detailed drawings of the ship's hull, deck
        arrangement, and rigging.  Invaluable to modelers, too.

The Bomb Vessel Granado 1742 by Peter Goodwin. Naval Institute Press,
Annapolis, 1989.  Hardback, 125 pages, 9.5 inches high by 10.5. $36.95.
Many drawings, plans, model photos.  ISBN 0-87021-178-1.
        Useful to both the scratch-build modeler and the reader of
        Forester who wants to know more about the bomb vessel.
        Provides insights about Jack Aubrey's first command, the Sophie,
        since the Granado is also a 14 gun, brig-sloop with a
        quarterdeck and stern windows.  [See also page 6, col. c.]

Captain Cook's Endeavour by Karl Heinz Marquardt, Anatomy of the Ship
Series, 138 pages, hardback, 224 illustrations, $36.95.
        The Endeavour, made eternally famous by Captain Cook's first
        voyage on her in 1768-71, was chosen by Cook because of her
        strong construction.  The author describes her build and rig
        based on information found in the Endeavour's journals, a mine
        of previously unused, primary-source information.

The Armed Transport Bounty by John Mckay, USNI, 1989, 120 pages, many
photos, drawings, plans, and detailed sketches, $36.95.
        A member of the Anatomy of the Ship series with the usual
        superb graphics.  Thanks to a reproduction built in Australia,
        the book has many photos as well.  Patrick O'Brian uses the
        Anatomy of the Ship books and models to visualize action
        about ships.

The Schooner Bertha L. Downs by Basil Greenhill and Sam Manning, 1995,
hardback, 128 pages, 250 Illustrations. 9.5 by 10.25 inches.  The
Anatomy of the Ship Series, Naval Institute Press, ISBN 1-55750-790-2,
$36.95.
        The North American schooner Bertha L. Downs was one of the many
        large four-, five-, and six-masted schooners built on the banks
        of the Kennebeck River at the end of the nineteenth and the
        beginning of the twentieth centuries.  These huge wooden
        vessels were almost universally employed in the coastal trade,
        chiefly taking coal from Virginia to New England.  Contains
        superb drawings and much new material about the life of the
        vessel.
         Bertha L. Downs was launched in 1908 and after ten years in
        the lumber and coal trade was sold to Danish owners, renamed
        the Atlas, and like a number of her contemporaries made a
        profitable living through the 1920s and 30s.  She was finally
        broken up in 1950 in Germany having spent forty-two years
        working under five flags.

Close cousins to the Anatomy of a Ship series is the Conway Ship Types
series.  Excellent large graphics and superb research

The Bomb Vessel, Shore Bombardment Ships of the Age of Sail  by Chris
Ware, 1995, hardback, 128 pages, 100 illustrations,  10.75 by 10.75
inches.  Conway Ship Type Series, $38.95.
        In the Horatio Hornblower stories, the bomb vessel represented
        a specialization of the warship into a floating siege engine
        carrying huge shell-firing mortars for the purpose of
        bombarding stationary targets.

The Heavy Frigate, Eighteen-pounder Frigates: Volume 1, 1778- 1800  by
Robert Gardiner, 1995, hardback, 128 pages, 80 illustrations, 10.75 by
10.75 inches.  Conway Ship Type Series, $38.95.
        The first of two volumes specifically devoted to the large
        single-decked cruising ships armed with 18-pounder guns.  First
        introduce during the American Revolution, the frigates grew
        rapidly in size, number, importance and becoming the typical
        frigate of the Nelson era that we read about Patrick O'Brian's
        Aubrey Maturin series.

[Not in the format of the Anatomy series but a superb reference on the
Victory and written specifically for the modeler of HMS Victory: large
foldout drawings.]

ANATOMY OF NELSON'S SHIPS by C. Nepean Longridge, 1956, hardback, 283
pages, 7.5 by 9.75 inches.  Naval Institute Press, ISBN 0-87021-077-7,
$39.95.
        A truly splendid reference.  By creating this book for the
        serious model builder of the HMS Victory, Longridge packed an
        immense amount of detail about Nelsonian ships in general and
        the Victory in particular.  A Patrick O'Brian fan will "see"
        more clearly the action described after reviewing the hundreds
        of illustrations, the scores of clear photographs, and the
        detailed plans, many which foldout to the size of 4 and 6 pages
        in area, in this book.  What is a truck, why catharpings,
        where's the kevel, how the channels are supported, what's the
        location of the spirketting, and the purpose of the limber
        passage.
         One photograph shows the wardroom as a bright, attractive room
        with officer cabins on either side.  Another photograph of the
        ship's entry port reminded me of the entry way into aircraft
        carriers which have gangways leading into the side rather than
        to the weather deck.  It made clearer the image of the many at
        anchor receptions described by O'Brian and Forester.  One
        incongruous photograph shows WWII damage suffered by the
        Victory from a German aircraft bomb.    For the modeler,
        everything is included in this one book, hull, standing
        rigging, running rigging, modeling tips, and construction of
        special tools and jigs.  The immense index contains over 1200
        entries.

The following is from Clayton A. Feldman, MD:

                A Personal Research Library:
                ============================
Anglo-American Sailing Vessels of the Eighteenth Century (With
Commentary)

 The problem confronting beginning and intermediate ship modelers is
quite straight forward: For both, the major pitfall is error
compounding error.  Increasing awareness of this negative process tends
to be followed by frustration, wheel-spinning attempts at ongoing
correction and finally exasperation and dropping-out. The problem often
results from the limited availability of readily accessible guidance.
This in turn leads to poor choice of subjects for modeling and rather
random, undirected library building. Without at least a purpose-built
library (and better yet, some form of mentoring in addition), failure
to understand the limits of one's personal knowledge rapidly puts the
modeler into the unfortunate state described above, precluding accurate
and effective work. What then can be done to prevent such talent-wasting
scenarios from developing?
 If one could control the entry point into ship modeling for the
beginner, the job would be relatively easy. One would select a simple,
quality kit -- a sloop or schooner from a quality manufacturer and one
book, probably George Campbell's  "A Neophyte Ship Modeler's Jackstay", as
the starting package.
This would permit the beginner to get the look and feel of the hobby
with a bit of guidance and see if it appealed to him. If it did, he
would then be encouraged to purchase a bit more advanced kit, together
with a small library consisting of (in this author's opinion) one book
and two articles. The book is the Merritt Edson- edited "Ship Modeler's
Shop Notes";  in it are excellent chapters on research and ship
selection for modeling as well as innumerable articles on construction,
tools and processes.
 The two recommended articles are  Charles O. McDonald's "Books as a
Key to Modeling Success" (Nautical Research Journal, Vol.31, No.1, pp
17-36) and Peter Sorlien's article "Before the Chips Fly, A Few
Thoughts to Guide the New Ship Modeler" (Scale Woodcraft, No.6, 1986,
pp 23-29). The first article is a master book collector's personal
guide to library building for ship modeling and nautical research. It
philosophically suggests that the library builder is well-served by
sticking to one general era and not many different types of vessels and
by rather ruthlessly limiting his library to that era and type. The
second article is a general introduction and guide to the selection of
kits, the understanding of the basic research process and the general
philosophy of proper ship modeling.
 This second ship modeling project and its associated library expansion
would start the process of converting the hobbyist into a sort of
scholar craftsman. From here on, or perhaps after a couple of more kit
models, it would be all library building and scratch modeling or
serious kit bashing, with the personal library being the primary source
for the basic research.
 It should be noted that the library suggestions above and those to
follow form a basic library only for mid-late eighteenth century small
and medium-sized Anglo-American vessels, the author's personal area of
interest. Other times and places require different libraries and a bit
of research before beginning book purchases. One must also realize that
much of the information for these smaller vessels is interpreted and
derived from the primary source material for larger vessels, thereby
expanding the library somewhat beyond that which seems 'ruthlessly'
related to the small vessels themselves. In any event, here we go:

First:  The Ruthless TWO BOOK Library:
     1.   Chapelle, Howard I., The Search for Speed Under Sail,
          W.W. Norton Co.Inc., New York, 1983.
     2.   Petrejus, E.W., Building the Brig-of-War Irene. "De Esch",
          Holland, 1970.

 Outrageous, you say?  Not at all. At least half of all the interesting
smaller American vessels of the era are found well-drawn and described
in this particular Chapelle work. They are interesting because they
were fast and therefore were used in interesting applications, mostly
as privateers and smugglers. Although Chapelle's text is almost totally
undocumented, for which he has come under revisionist historian attack
recently, he is extremely detailed, generally authoritative, a
marvelous draftsman and a most adequate source of information gathering-
type basic research. Serious research, however, can never end with
Chapelle.
 The Petrejus book is practically a single volume encyclopedia. It
contains historical research, magnificent engravings and prints,
contemporary (always remember, in academic historical parlance,
contemporary means at the time of the historical period under study,
not modern times (eg, then, not now) construction techniques, rigging
and fitting data, spar tables and very detailed modeling techniques all
in one. Applied specifically to the modeling of a Dutch revision of an
early nineteenth century English brig, it applies quite generally to
our era and type and is a very good source for further library research.

And Then:  The Compleat (almost) Two Foot Library:
 A fairly complete plans source, historical database, and modern and
contemporary practices reference library can be had by the addition of
another fifteen books to those previously described. Carefully placed
notes about the house prior to birthdays and holidays can greatly
assist in the speed of acquisition. The books are:

1.   Steel, David, Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging
     (1794), Sweetman Reprint, Largo, Fla.,1983.
2.   Lever, D'arcy, The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor. (1819),
     Sweetman Reprint, New York, 1963.
3.   Steel, David, The Elements and Practice of Naval
     Architecture, 1805. Sim Comfort Reprint, London, 1977.
4.   Chapman, F.H., Architectura Navalis Mercatoria, 1768,
     Sweetman Reprint, New York, 1967.
5.   Gill, Claude S. (editor), The Old Wooden Walls: Their
     Construction, Equipment, etc. Being an abridged edition of
     FALCONER'S Celebrated Marine Dictionary. W&G Foyle, Ltd.,
     London, 1930.
6.   Millar, John F., Early American Ships. Thirteen Colonies=20
     Press, Williamsburg, Va., 1986.
7.   Chapelle, Howard I., The History of the American Sailing=20
     Navy, W.W. Norton Co.Inc., New York, 1949.
8.   Chapelle, Howard I., The History of American Sailing Ships,
     W.W. Norton Co.Inc., New York, 1935.
9.   MacGregor, David R., Fast Sailing Ships, Naval Institute=20
     Press, Annapolis, 1988.
10.  MacGregor, David R., Merchant Sailing Ships, 1775-1815,=20
     Argus Books, Ltd., Watford, Herts, England, 1980.
11.  Lees, James, The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of=20
     War, 1625-1860, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, 1984.
12.  Goodwin, Peter, The English Man of War, 1650-1850, Naval=20
     Institute Press, Annapolis, 1987.
13.  Lavery, Brian, The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of=20
     War, 1600-1815, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, 1987.
14.  Harland, John and Meyers, Mark, Seamanship in the Age of=20
     Sail, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, 1985.
15.  Howard, Dr.Frank, Sailing Ships of War, 1400-1860, Mayflower
     Books, New York, 1979.

 Most of these books are still in print or in re-print editions. The
Gill Falconer, or one of the other Falconer reprints, will have to be
sought out in a nautical used book store.  Lacking rich and generous
relatives, one may have to find a library for accessing Steel's Naval
Architecture.
 With these volumes added to our historical research and plans sources,
we complete the basic documentation of American naval and private
vessels. The two additional books from Chapelle contain  extensive
historical and naval architectural data and scores of the best drafts
of American vessels ever drawn. The Chapman book is the single most
valuable collection of contemporary plans, unfortunately few of which
could be considered American. They are, however, essentially generic
types, divided by nautical design and use, by (European) nation of
origin and by size. Chapman also has very nice sail plan drawings.
 A very enjoyable  American vessels scrapbook, the Millar book has
over two hundred copied and/or reconstructed drawings of colonial and
Revolutionary era American vessels available for perusal, together with
brief historical summaries of the lives of the vessels. It is often a
good place to begin one's search for a choice of modeling projects. The
two MacGregor contributions are the scholarly delineation of the
English side of our era's smaller vessels as the Chapelle works are for
the American side. To these books must be added the basic primary
contemporary sources on rigging and spar-making (Steel and Lever), the
general mini-encyclopedia  of eighteenth century naval architecture
(Falconer), and the not-to-be-done-without (but very expensive) Steel's
Naval Architecture, the only primary source available for actual
dimensions and scantlings (the size of the smaller timbers) for the
smaller vessels.  This latter listing is actually a pair of books, the
reference book itself and a magnificent over-size folio of large scale
engravings of interesting ships of the era.
 The modern standard compendium of masting and rigging is Lee's book,
that for construction is Goodwin's and for fittings, Lavery. The
Harland-Meyers book provides a great many otherwise missing details by
both describing and sketching a great many processes showing how the
ship and its equipment were actually used. Frank Howard provides a
general overview of the era in a very good book ("Sailing Ships of
War"), which misses being a great book only by lacking an index.
 New books for the research library are appearing at a rapid rate, and
the would-be library builder must often decide within a fairly short
span of time whether or not to buy, as single edition production runs
are common. In the past few years alone, we have seen Brian Lavery's
two books on the ships of the line, a whole slew of Conway Publishing
volumes in the Anatomy of the Ship series, the magnificent Jean
Boudriot series on a wide variety of French vessels of this era,
Franklin's book on Navy Board models, and a modest number of reprints
of eighteenth and early nineteenth century reference books -- Steel,
Falconer, Sutherland, Fincham and others, if you want names to look
for. Most of these books are available from the book shops andj mail
order hobby suppliers who advertise in "Seaways' Ships in Scale".
 Although these suggestions are mainly for a reference library, one
would be remiss in not mentioning at least a few books that deal
largely with model construction techniques. Of course much valuable
construction information is available in the Edson and Petrejus volumes
mentioned above. "Ship Modeler's Shop Notes" is useful for models of
all types, with information on built-up lift models as well as plank-on-
frame. It also is crammed with time-proven techniques for block and
spar making, casting metal fittings, making rope, painting, coppering
and just about everything else the modeler needs to know. Modeling the
Brig of War Irene is similarly useful and broad-based. The hull
technique described is the lift method of solid hull building, but the
fitting, finishing, spar making, etc. techniques are universal in
application and the details are especially useful for smaller-than-ship-
of-the-line vessels.
 For plank-on-frame modelers there are two additional recommendations,
the old favorite "The Built-Up Ship Model" by Charles Davis and the
very well received fairly recent work of Harold Hahn, The Colonial
Schooner. The former is fifty years old, written in a charming style,
and full of very useful construction and research data hints the size
of gunports, the height of sills, the weight of anchors, etc. It is
also full of anachronisms and is itself based on an error of
identification, Davis having substituted an English brig of the turn of
the century for the American Revolutionary War converted merchant brig
"Lexington". The hull construction techniques are universal and very
easy to understand and the drawings are wonderful.
 Hahn's work has turned his slightly simplified style of P-O-F building,
admittedly a model maker's convention rather than an exact reproduction
of contemporary practice, into the middle-of-the-road standard. Widely
used by modeler's, this technique, using several jigs for building the
frames and a unique fixture for holding the frames upside down in place
during construction, provides for excellent continuity of form and
alignment of frames as the hull is built.