author: Brian MacNamara

subject: Hedgehog FAQ [4/7] - Hedgehogs as pets

text:
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part4
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs

Last-modified: 23 August 2006
Version: 3.89

HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 4 of 7) -- HEDGEHOGS AS PETS
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara ([email])
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.

This document is copyright 2006 by Brian MacNamara.  See section [0.6]
for authorship information and redistribution rights.  In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.

The basic Hedgehog FAQ has seven parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one.  A complete table of contents for
all seven parts is given in part I.

Please note:  While my knowledge of hedgehogs has grown (far beyond my
wildest expectations when I began the FAQ), my knowledge is still quite
limited, especially in areas of health care.  I did not write, or verify,
all the information in this FAQ.  I have done my best to include only
accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness
of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that
it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way.  For advice
from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1],
or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian
who is familiar with hedgehogs.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

5. *** Things you'll need ***

   <5.1> What will I need to take care of my new hedgehog?
   <5.2> Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?
   <5.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?
   <5.4> Litter boxes and what kind of litter should I use?
   <5.5> I'm having problems litter-training my hedgehog.  What should
         I be doing?
   <5.6> Hedgehogs and wheels
   <5.7> Making your own wheel
   <5.8> Any suggestions on toys?

6. *** Basic hedgehog care and training ***

   <6.1> How can I best hedgehogproof my home?
   <6.2> What should I feed my hedgehog?
   <6.3> Commercial hedgehog foods and nutrition
   <6.4> What are good treats?
   <6.5> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping nails?
   <6.6> Biting and nipping
   <6.7> HELP, my hedgehog is LOST! (or Hedgehog Hide-and-Seek)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

5. *** Things you'll need ***

------------------------------

Subject: <5.1> What will I need to take care of my new hedgehog?

A brief list of things needed right away is covered in section [4.5], and is
meant as a getting started list.  This section, and the ones that follow, are
meant to provide information in greater detail.

There are only a few things that are essential to keep a pet hedgehog.
Basically a warm place to live (either a large cage/pen/aquarium, or a room
-- if you want to let your hedgehog run free), a food dish (preferably one
that is not easy to tip over), a water bottle, such as for Guinea pigs,
(water dishes can tend to become soiled and baby hedgehogs can easily drown
in them, but adults often like them), and last but not least, something big
enough for your hedgehog to hide in as a den.  Of course food, water and
other treats are a given!

It is also a good idea to have a shallow litter box or pan (although not all
hedgehogs seem inclined to use them), and some type of bedding (aspen
shavings, clean straw, etc., but NOT cedar [5.3]).

An exercise wheel [5.6] and [5.7] (big enough for a hedgehog) is also
strongly recommended -- especially for hedgehogs that don't have the run of
the house.  Hedgehogs tend to be surprisingly energetic, and need the chance
to use up some of this energy.  In addition, it appears more and more that
hedgehogs who have and use wheels live much longer and generally seem not to
come down with some of the more common serious ailments, such as Fatty Liver
Disease.  Because of this, I am quickly reaching the opinion that a proper
wheel is more of a necessity than a luxury.  Given how easy (and even fun) it
is to make a wheel, there really is no excuse for not having one.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.2> Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?

This is largely a matter of choice, yours and theirs.  Some hedgehog owners
wouldn't dream of caging their prickly little friends, while some breeders
use large cat carriers to keep their hoards in (one hedgehog, one carrier).

I personally use large wire cages that were intended for medium to large dogs
as homes for my hedgehogs.  These cages measure about 2' wide x 3' deep x
2.5' high (frankly I wouldn't put a dog bigger than a Chihuahua in something
this size, but the labels claim they were designed for collies and similar
sized dogs!).

I should point out that organizations, such as VEZ [2.7], recommend ``one
square meter (approximately 1 sq. yard) of floorspace for [each] hedgehog.''
This is a good rule of thumb, since hedgies are not as small as hamsters or
gerbils, and do need space to roam in.  The alternative is to give them a
good play time, each night, to roam about a larger area under supervision.

You should be careful to make sure the grating in the cage you use leaves
narrow enough holes that your hedgehog can't get out, or even get his head
wedged in between the wires.  Chicken wire is probably not a very safe
choice.  Hedgehogs will often attempt to escape with an astounding amount of
vigor and can be quite single minded about doing so.  Younger hedgehogs can
easily get out of cages with openings between the wires as small as 1/2''
(1.5 cm) -- trust me on this, Sprocket earned the middle name Houdini for
just this achievement, while Pocus would gleefully climb to the top of the
cage looking for even the smallest niche to squeeze through.

Probably the most cost effective cage system I'm aware of is to use the large
clear plastic bins (with lids) that look like giant Tupperware containers,
and are available inexpensively from most hardware and department stores
these days.  Drill plenty of holes in the top (small enough that a hedgehog
won't fit through, but large enough to provide lots of air), or even along
the sides, towards the top, and you have a very easy to clean cage, that is
also easy to get at to get your hedgie out.

The best part of the plastic bin idea is that, if you find ones that are not
big enough, just use two, or three, or create a whole complex of them.  Using
inexpensive plastic plumbing pipes and fittings, you can create a hedgehog
palace in a short time.  Just beware to make sure tunnels slope at an angle
that hedgehogs can manage comfortably.

Skewer lives in one such plastic bin that was far too low to give clearance
for his wheel.  Since leaving the top off was a guaranteed escape in the
making, we solved the problem by cutting out a section of the lid, and
putting another small, but deep, plastic bin over it, glued to the larger
lid.  This dome roof covers his wheel nicely, and ensures he only wanders
(escapes from the cage) when it's intended (i.e., gets out for playtime).

Bedding, such as aspen shavings [5.3], is recommended in any cage, and most
importantly, some sort of place to hide is needed.  Alternately, you can use
astroturf, or something like non-clumping cat litter [5.4] (make sure it's
not dusty), or even epoxy coated aquarium stones (some sort of soft bed area
is recommended, though).  Do watch out for the pieces of litter or bedding
getting caught in sensitive places as mentioned in sections [5.4] and [9.1].

The most frequently recommended den is a section of 4'' (or 6'' for larger
hedgehogs) diameter PVC (plastic) plumbing pipe.  You can get this at almost
any hardware or plumbing store for a couple of dollars.

For a home, or den, I have used a variety of items.  For Velcro I used two
wicker bread baskets (about 4'' x 6'' and 2-3'' deep) tied securely together
with a door cut towards one end (about 3'' x 3'').  Velcro preferred this
over either the PVC pipe home, or a hollow log, however, Popeye, who
inherited Velcro's cage and den won't have anything to do with it, preferring
to sleep under a hedgebag (a cloth bag with no seams).  Pocus, however,
preferred the PVC pipe or especially a hollow log, and wouldn't have anything
to do with the basket (except as a toy -- Pocus tossed it like a seal with a
ball).  Hedgehogs *can* be fickle!  For Quibble, Quiver and Pepper, who live
together, we use a stackable plastic bin, turned upside down, which provides
(almost) enough space for three plump hedgebutts to snuggle together at
naptime.

A word of caution about using old socks or cloth with a loose weave to it:

    Don't use anything fabric for them to hide in.  I did have an old sock...
    Koosh liked to climb inside it, but the vet told me of an instance where
    a hedgehog got his leg caught in a thread, tried to get out, only made it
    worse, and the thread ended up slicing through her flesh to the bone.  He
    said he was able to save the leg, though.
    --  Kathleen Close

If you're going to use an aquarium, I would not recommend anything less that
a 20 gallon size, and preferably larger, as a basic home for a hedgehog --
they are much too active for anything less, and small enclosures will quickly
lead to an overweight and unhealthy hedgehog.

Cages at the large end of being suitable for Guinea pigs or rabbits are
likely fine.  Keep in mind that hedgehogs like to explore, and they are great
escape artists.  They can climb anything they can get their claws hooked
into, and by rolling into a ball and leaning forward, they can manage to get
down quite safely from virtually any height that didn't need a long ladder to
get them up to.

Tammy Baer sent in the following, interesting twist on the pet carrier home.
I think this has some real merit for people who currently use a carrier, and
want to give their little friends a better quantity of space to live in.

    Each hedgie has a large dog kennel as a cage, but not in the traditional
    way.  I took the cage apart and placed the top upside down and face to
    face with the bottom.  That way the top half of the entrance meets the
    bottom and they have twice the room to roam.  I use two clamps on either
    side to keep the halves together, and they overlap just enough that
    there's no gap for little feet between halves.  They still have their
    exercise room at night, but if I ever have to leave them for a couple of
    days I know they're just fine.  One of the great advantage to using the
    kennels is cleaning is a snap as bedding and even messes just wipe out.
    The sides are smooth and not easy to climb keeping adventurous hedgies
    inside.  This only works if you have nothing for them to climb that is
    close to the edge.  I found Zoe was fond of making what seemed like
    impossible jumps to get out.  The cage is also very open and low enough
    to give excellent ventilation for good breathing.
    -- Tammy Baer

The point about not having climbable items in this kind of cage (in fact, any
open topped cage, needs some stressing.  Hedgehogs are very adept at
escaping, and they are quite able to pile things against the side of a cage
to get out.  I've seen it done, and I've heard more stories on this than I
care to admit.  ;-)

If you are not certain the place you are trying to keep your hedgehog in is
warm enough to keep him from going into hibernation [7.3], you might want to
consider placing a heating pad (on its LOWEST setting) under the part of the
pen where your hedgehog sleeps.  Make sure your hedgehog is not going to come
directly into contact with the heating pad, and that he has the ability to
get to an area away from it, should it be too warm for him.

If your hedgehog gets too cool, you risk a number of problems, including
pneumonia.  Pneumonia can be especially bad, since you may not know he has it
and even if it clears up, the effects of scarring on the lungs can result in
death sometime later, when things otherwise appear perfectly fine.

Other suggestions from Katherine Long are to use heating elements intended
for lizards, or those for keeping germinating seeds warm.

    Ambergris much prefers to sleep under a thick towel rather than in
    her pipe.  Actually the towel is draped over a half hollow log and
    the pipe on top of the pad that is on top of the lizard warmer pad.
    She crawls between the towel and the pad cover, in preference to
    anywhere else.
    -- Katherine Long

I have also received suggestions of caution from Kirby J. Kerr, about using
heat rocks as designed for lizards as they are quite prone to overheating,
and generally erratic behavior.  In other words, do be careful when using
these products.

Another idea for keeping hedgies warm is:

    There are ceramic reptile heaters that are similar to light bulbs
    (but give off no light).  They screw into a regular light socket
    and can be positioned to radiate heat into the cage.  They run
    about $25 mail-order, $40 retail, and come in various wattages.  If
    you want to add a thermostat, it gets pricier.
    -- Christine Porter

NOTE: When using these ``heat bulbs'' you must only use them in a ceramic
light socket.  My thanks to Ron Adrezin for this caution, and the following:

    The company that makes the heat bulbs also sells ceramic sockets with a
    clip at the bottom so that it may be attached to the cage.  I also use
    baggie ties on the clip to make absolutely sure that it cannot fall over
    and start a fire.
    -- Ron Adrezin

Here are some other ideas that show just how imaginative people can be when
it comes to dealing with hedgehogs.  This next idea was actually something
created for keeping a too-small European hedgehog warm enough to avoid
hibernation, until he could pack on enough weight to survive the ordeal, but
it would work equally well for pets.

    [I created a] warmer - it was a biscuit tin inside which were 2 x 15
    watt pygmy bulbs, in series. (In series to reduce the heat output and
    lengthen the life).  It was just detectably warm to the touch after an
    hour on the kitchen table.

    Another way, this time using less electrical engineering, would be to
    use one of those electric germination trays that you get in garden
    shops, they are typically about 10 watts (i.e. close to what I get
    with my 2 bulbs in series) and of course they are built to be
    waterproof and are readily available.  If you worry about water-logging
    from rain or urine, it would do just as well upside-down, heat (or
    rather, hot air) rises.
    -- Michael Bell

If your room temperature doesn't get too cool, you may be able to make do
with an idea like this:

    My daughter has come up with a neat idea to keep our heggies pretty warm.
    She has made them sleeping bags out of fleece and lined it with thin
    thermal material.
    -- Mary Novak

Just beware that there aren't any loose threads (or hairs) that can get
caught around busy hedgie legs.

Feel free to be inventive when it comes to keeping your hedgehog warm during
the cooler months of the year.  As long as there is a warm area where your
hedgehog's den is, and you haven't created a fire hazard or some other
impending disaster, you can pretty much use your imagination when it comes to
impromptu heaters.

It's imperative that your pet hedgehogs stay warm during the winter.
Hedgehogs will go into hibernation [7.3] if not kept warm, and if they don't
receive enough hours of light, and this can have disasterous consequences.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?

In most cases the answer is maybe.  In addition to wood shavings generally
making for a more comfortable place to root and burrow around in, many
hedgehogs are not overly particular as to where they defecate.  Using
shavings makes cleaning up after them quite a bit easier.

I have heard of a few cases where hedgehogs were allergic to wood shaving
bedding, but these have been relatively uncommon cases.  In all the cases
I've heard of, the hedgehog has experienced what appears to be a bloody nose
most nights while roaming about its enclosure.  The solution was to use a
more natural bedding (closer to their natural habitat -- for example, real
dirt and grass).  Another possibility might be to increase the humidity, but
the best solution is to switch from using wood shavings.

I have also seen numerous warnings against using cedar shavings, especially
for baby or young hedgehogs where the strong aroma can actually overpower and
even kill them.  Do not use cedar!

The ``Safe Beddings FAQ'' now exists and is posted to the rec.pets Usenet
Newsgroup on a monthly basis.  It is also available via the WWW at:
    http://www.aracnet.com/~seagull/faq/beddingfaq.shtml

My thanks to Rick Russell for the original pointer to it, and to Christine
Porter for the pointer to the new address.

I have to admit that, in 1994, when I acquired Velcro at 8 months of age, he
came in a pet carrier complete with a bedding of cedar shavings and was none
the worse for wear from it (though he also lived in a very well ventilated
cage).  Since then I have used pine shavings, aspen shavings, Yesterdays News
(recycled paper cat litter), and astroturf.

It now appears that pine, also being an aromatic softwood, `can' cause many
of the same effects as cedar.  While generally not as strong as cedar, it is
better to opt for aspen or other non-aromatic woods.  Personally, I believe
that pine, as long as it isn't that strongly odoured (isn't very resinous) is
an okay choice for bedding in open cages (as opposed to tanks).  Strong
smelling pine shavings, however, are not a good choice for a bedding
material.

The rule of thumb for any bedding material is, if it has a noticeable scent,
it probably isn't terribly safe.

I have recently been in touch with Gerald McKiness, who had lost five of his
hedgehogs to the use of pine shavings -- the cause being borne out by the
necropsies that were performed.  After switching away from using pine, he has
had no further losses.  Here are some of the details about the symptoms:

    Our first casualty was a hamster. A pet of about 3 yrs. of age.  He died
    after about 3 weeks to a month of respiratory distress and digestive
    failure.  My hedgehogs began dying about a year later. The symptoms
    always started with a loss of appetite, then loss of mobility in the
    hindquarters.  They would have a wheeze to the breathing.  The
    excretions would be a bright green.  In about three weeks, despite
    everything, bottle feeding, antibiotic injections, veterinary care,
    they died.

    The necropsies would all show respiratory distress, fluid in the lungs,
    liver distress, and NO PATHOGENS.
    -- Gerald McKiness

While aspen shavings do not have what some people consider the pleasant cedar
or pine scent, nor some of the insect (mite) repelling qualities of cedar,
everything I have seen strongly urges against the use of cedar and also pine
bedding for hedgehogs (and other small animals).

Aspen is, unfortunately, more expensive than either cedar or pine, but the
safety factor is paramount.  If you are unable to find aspen, and are using
pine, make sure you do so in a well ventilated cage or pen, not one that is
enclosed with limited airflow, as this will help limit the dangers.  For
cedar, the answer is simply to avoid using it.

Mike McGary has the following words of wisdom on a further advantage of using
aspen shavings:

    One of the benefits of aspen shavings is that they are digestible.
    This can prevent problems resulting from eating the bedding (our
    babies have all eaten some bedding).

Another side effect of wood is that shavings of most kinds involve quite a
bit of dust which can have unpleasant side effects on small lungs.  Aspen,
which appears to be shredded rather than chipped, seems to be less dusty and
much better than pine or cedar.

For those of you who want an alternative to wood shavings of any kind,
especially for those who might have allergies themselves to the bedding,
Kathleen Close passed along the following idea, courtesy of her veterinarian:

    Use terrarium lining or astroturf.  It's much cheaper in the long run.
    He suggested buying two lengths, washing them about every 3 days, and
    while one is drying, put the second one in.

After trying out the astroturf idea (make sure it's the newer, soft, almost
carpet-like astroturf, not the older tinsel-like plastic grass), I wound up
wondering about the edges where it seemed to unravel a bit.  Terri Lewis
provided the following great solution:

    Use a soldering gun or iron [to melt the edges].  That should stop it
    from unraveling unless your [hedgehog] is really chewing on it and not
    just pulling at it.
    -- Terri Lewis

I've also found that careful use of a candle along the edges works well, but
I do stress being careful!

I can now attest to astroturf working quite well, and I've found that my
hedgehogs appear to be more active on it than with wood shavings, though that
may have just been their anticipation of spring being in the air, at the
time.

Janet Jones sent along some information on a new product that also shows some
promise:

       	COMPANY:
       	Adsorbent Corporation
       	1051 Hilton Avenue
       	Bellingham, WA 98225
       	U.S.A.

    This information was taken directly from their packaging:

      CareFRESH Pet Bedding - The safest, healthiest bedding for your pet.

      For hamsters, gerbils, mice, rabbits, birds, reptiles, guinea pigs,
      cats, dogs, ferrets, skunks and other pets.

      CareFRESH is a patented pet bedding made from reclaimed wood pulp waste.
      This short fiber virgin pulp can't be made into paper so would normally
      be sent to a landfill or burned. CareFRESH helps save scarce resources.
      CareFRESH contains no added inks, dyes or chemical contaminants. It's
      better bedding, naturally.

    I use this bedding for all my small animals, i.e., hamster, rat and
    hedgehogs. They have been on this bedding for about a month and seem to
    like it quite well.  The female hedgehog I just recently got loves to
    burrow underneath it, as do the rat and hamster.  I previously used corn
    cobs as I have allergies and wood chips of any kind make me ill. The dust
    in pine is terrible.  The corn cobs are pretty good, but they still are a
    little dusty and kind of rough. The only downside I found about CareFRESH
    bedding is that it is kind of expensive and hard to find.  But it does
    seem to last quite a while, so maybe in the long run it really is not as
    expensive as it seems.

Note: Some problems have been reported with some young hedgehogs eating and
subsequently choking on CareFRESH bedding.  I suspect this same problem can
occur with virtually any pelletized bedding material, and the best suggestion
is to keep it away from the dinner area and to be careful with baby and
adolescent hedgehogs.

Yesterday's News cat litter, made of pelletized recycled newspapers, also
works quite well.  They produce a variety for `ferrets' which has a smaller
pellet size than the cat litter variety, but I've found no complaints from
the quilled crowd over the larger, cat litter sized pieces.  Note: they also
make a `lemon' scented variety, which is probably not a good choice, both
from the aromatic point of view, and the fact that hedgehogs are usually not
overly fond of citrus.

Another suggestion is to just use non-clumping cat litter.  This may have two
potential dangers: dust and especially for male hedgehogs, getting caught in
the penile sheath -- the same as if you used it in a litter box [5.4], [9.1]
(there can also be problems for females, though these are not as frequent).

Corncob litter is not recommended as bedding for hedgehogs, for a number of
reasons.  The danger of it getting caught in delicate places still exists,
though not as likely as, say, clumping cat litters.  There have also been
many cases of mites that pointed back to the use of corncob bedding as the
source.  Corncob also tends to become mouldy when it gets damp, as well as
just rotting and causing odour.

Shredded office paper can also be used as bedding, although make sure it
doesn't contain any metal (such as staples or paperclips) or odd chemical
impregnated or carbon paper.  It can, however, be quite dusty.

Although most bedding for pets is treated to prevent mites, bedding is still
one of the major sources of these little pests [8.2].  I have heard from a
couple of people who have reported that their vets told them that corn cob
bedding can be especially prone to mite infestations.  I do have to temper
that thought with the idea that if a particular brand or batch in the area
that these people lived was bad, it could have been the source for numerous
problems over quite a period of time.  Still, if you have mite problems, it
is probably worthwhile to switch to at least a different brand of bedding, if
not a different type -- at least for a while.

Looking still further afield, you can use the brightly coloured aquarium
gravel (the type that is epoxy coated).  This is not absorbent like the other
bedding options, nor as warm, but it does provide a pretty safe, and
non-allergic alternative.  Cleaning and disinfecting can, however be awkward,
making this better for particular areas rather than as a general bedding.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.4> What kind of litter should I use?

When it comes to the litter box, the primary concern is that you do NOT use a
clumping type litter.  Clumping litter can stick to your hedgehog when s/he
uses the litter box, forming almost a layer of cement, which can quickly
prevent urination.

Almost any brand of non-clumping cat litter is relatively safe. A clay based
litter may be preferable, as most hedgehogs like to dig in it, as they would
in soft soil or sand. Here again, you should ask the expert (your hedgehog)
for his/her preference.

It is possible, however, for even non-clumping litter to become caked on, so
you should check your hedgehog frequently.

    I have seen clay litter clump on one of our hedgehogs.  I let her
    walk around in the tub full of shallow water until it is softened
    enough to remove gently.
    -- Mike McGary

Male hedgehogs can also get pieces of almost any kind of litter and bedding
(especially clay and corncob) caught in their penile sheath.  You should
check hedgehogs of both sexes daily (or nightly, as the case may be) to
ensure that there aren't any such problems.

As with bedding, there is a need that the litter you use not be too dusty.

Hedgehogs also like to dig and root in sand, and will often end up using
their litter boxes for this, instead of for the intended purpose.  If yours
does this, you might want to try offering a sandbox [5.8] as a play area.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.5> I'm having problems litter-training my hedgehog.  What should
               I be doing?

I wish I knew the answer to this one!  Velcro and Popeye insisted that one's
so called master is there for the express purpose of feeding tasty tidbits
then cleaning up the results wherever they decide to leave them.  As for the
litter box, well that's just a playpen for digging in, isn't it?  On the
other hand, Sprocket and Hocus as well as Pocus seemed to just naturally seek
out and use a litter box, and so do some of my current `ladies,' so there was
no training involved.  Now if I could get them to teach Popeye some manners!

That having been said, the recommended approach (which did not receive the
Velcro stamp of approval, I might add) is to put all the droppings you find,
into the litter box, daily.  The idea is that the hedgehog will come to
associate the litter box with where the droppings are supposed to go.  Some
hedgehogs apparently take to this quite readily.

In all seriousness, I suspect that hedgehogs which are taught from birth to
use a litter box, will generally do so quite happily, while those that have
not been taught, or didn't receive adequate training while quite young may
not be keen on using the litter box, but persistence may pay off eventually.

For what it is worth, cleaning up hedgehog droppings is not exactly a
difficult or messy task.  In a pen with pine or aspen shavings it is simply a
matter of quickly sifting though the shavings with a cat litter scoop to
clean up the droppings.  Fortunately, there is virtually no odour, and the
droppings are big enough to clean up easily.

In addition to everything above, here are some interesting, and very
promising tips on litterbox training:

    I had the same problem [not using the litter box -- ed.] with my
    hedgehog Quincy.  To resolve the problem, and he still misses the
    mark at times, I built a cardboard enclosure with a small entrance
    opening to fit over the litter pan in the corner of his cage - He has
    one of the small animal corner litter pans.  Unable, to resist a small
    opening, Quincy soon began doing his business in there.  I put him in
    there every time he finished eating, and it didn't take long before he
    got the idea.  Before, I added the cardboard cupboard, he would only use
    the litter pan as a ``sandbox,'' and could often be spotted sitting in
    the pan, eating the corn cob pellets.  Thankfully, he doesn't do that
    anymore either.
    -- Michelle Baker

Given the appeal of small openings to hedgehogs, it's a wonder why nobody
thought of using that for any number of hedgie herding or training actions.
My thanks to Michelle for this -- I'll definitely give it a try with my
ill-behaved bunch.

Hot on the heels of the idea above, came the following suggestion from
Melissa-Lee:

    Neither of my hedgehogs were litter trained when they came home, but I
    figured out how to train them.  My male was easier to train because I
    just put some of her [the female's] waste in his litter pan and of
    course he had to cover up someone else's smell, and he never stopped
    using it.  The female just naturally took to the litter box when I but
    it in the corner where she went and she took to it.

This is another fine example of "why didn't I think of that!"  I suspect this
would generally work best with males, who tend to be somewhat more
territorial than females, but the idea of using a different hedgie's
droppings to coerce one into knowing where to go has a lot of merit.

As with all things hedgehog, patience is the key.  These ideas aren't likely
to result in instant results, so be patient, and keep at it.

Don't expect perfect results, however, hedgehogs are just not going to be
that fastidious about things.  There are going to be exceptions, no matter
what.

Some factors that will, however, make `mistakes' worse, are things like
wheels.  Remember that hedgehogs feel an almost irresistible need to go while
on the go.  As a result, you can often count on wheels becoming an alternate
litterbox (not to mention a poop slingshot of sorts).  Some hedgies will also
get into the habit of stopping briefly, to hang their backsides over the edge
of the wheel to `go' making it a bit easier to clean up afterwards.

In the end, there is no magic bullet to getting a hedgehog to use its litter
box.  Try the ideas above, and if it doesn't work out, it's not that bad --
trust me, I know!

------------------------------

Subject: <5.6> Hedgehogs and wheels

Most hedgehogs dearly love to run, and a hedgehog wheel provide the
opportunity for plenty of important exercise.  Although there are problems
associated with using improper wheels, the positive effects of having and
using a wheel are virtually enough to make one a necessity (unless your
hedgie has free run of an entire room).

One of the most tragic maladies found in hedgehogs these days is Fatty Liver
Disease, though for all the cases I have heard of, none have occurred in
hedgehogs that have and use wheels.  This includes cases where siblings have
each had the same diet, but one has not used a wheel, and the other has.
Exercise is very critical to our little friends, and for almost all of them,
the only option available to get them enough exercise is to give them a
wheel.

Here are a few thoughts on hedgehogs and wheels from Nathan Tenny:

    They adore exercise wheels, and will run upwards of five miles a
    night (at a top speed of 12 mph!); their feet get stuck in the
    regular wire wheels, though, and screen is hard to clean (they
    seem to like defecating while on the move, which makes sense, I
    guess).

All is not wonderful with hedgehog wheels -- there are a few serious problems
that need to be considered.

(1) It is necessary that the wheel have a solid surface.
    A hedgehog wheel should not just have a set of wires running across it
    as on most wheels for hamsters, gerbils, etc.  Without a solid surface,
    your hedgehog will get his legs caught in the wheel, and/or develop
    sores, or worse problems.  There are a number of ways to adapt wire
    wheels, so that they have smooth surfaces, from liners to duct tape,
    just use your imagination.  Having a solid wheel leads us to the next
    problem.

(2) Hedgehogs tend to leave their droppings all over their wheels:

        There's still one pending problem with the hedgehog wheels I've seen:
        Hedgehogs tend to defecate on the run (reasonable enough), and the
        wheel eventually gets pretty icky.  If you don't clean it, so does
        the hedgehog.  Unfortunately, hedgehog feces stick to wood fairly
        effectively (that's quite the understatement -- I'm thinking of
        marketing it as a new extra strong glue -- ed.).  A heavy coat of
        enamel paint makes them easier to clean off, but I'd sure like to
        find a surface that they'll just wipe away from.  Teflon wheels?

        Here's my fiancee's suggestion: If you live near a glass supply
        store, you'll find that they sell sheets of a sort of sticky
        vinyl---intended as masking for people who sandblast glass.
        Anyway, we have one wheel that has strips of this stuff along it,
        for traction, and she says that the strips are noticeably easier
        to clean than the plain wheel.  Just a thought.
        -- Nathan Tenny

    Velcro's wheel was lined with some cheap vinyl placemats (the smooth,
    shiny, padded kind) that were cut into strips and stuck together with
    anti-slip strips (sort of like self adhesive sandpaper to put on stairs
    and things to keep people from sliding away).  The anti-slip strips were
    there as a vain attempt to help Velcro keep his nails worn down a little.
    It wasn't too slippery, and definitely passed the Velcro approval test
    (by that, I mean it needed a thorough cleaning most mornings)!

(3) Pad any spokes you have on your wheel.
    Hedgehogs have a tendency to suddenly look around to the sides and
    behind while they are running -- to see how far they've gone.  This
    almost always results in getting hit in the face with a spoke from the
    wheel.  Unfortunately I know of at least one hedgehog who has lost an
    eye because of this (the hedgehog is fine -- it was properly treated by
    a vet).  The only sensible solution I can see is to pad the spokes so
    that they don't cause injuries when they hit, or if you are really
    inventive, maybe design a spokeless wheel, maybe suspended on a roller
    from the top of the cage?

I received a reminder recently, from Teresa, that to help cure a squeaky
wheel, you can use petroleum jelly, and not have to worry about any harmful
consequences from it being licked at by a curious hedgehog.  I know from
experience what happens to your nerves when a wheel (or two, or three, or...)
is squeaking, when you're trying to get to sleep.  ;-} I've also found that
both Linatone and vegetable oil will work, but they do tend to become sticky
over time, while petroleum jelly usually will not, and tends to last longer.

For those of you who do not feel up to tackling the job of constructing your
own (see section [5.7], if you are up to it), there are a number of sources of
ready made wheels for hedgehogs and suitable for them.  Unfortunately, few
pet stores carry wheels that can be used for hedgehogs, even with adaptation,
so it is usually necessary to revert to mail-order, or to building your own.

Probably the most common wheels are the RoundAbout wheels by Balanced
Innovations.  Balanced Innovations is now owned by Ain't No Creek Ranch
[2.8], so they are probably one of the best sources for these wheels.

       	Ain't No Creek Ranch
       	2553 W Offner Road
       	Beecher, IL
       	USA   60401-3347

       	email:  [email]
        www:    http://www.aintnocreek.com/

       	Phone:  (708) 946-9750
       	Fax:    (708) 534-3277

RoundAbout wheels are also available from Brisky Pet Products:

       	Brisky Pet Products
       	South Main Street
       	P.O. Box 186
       	Franklinville, NY  14737
       	USA

       	www:   http://www.brisky.com/
       	email: [email]

       	phone: 1-800-462-2464 (toll free, US only)
       	or:    (716) 557-2464
       	fax:   (716) 557-2336

Other sources for hedgehog safe wheels are places such as Transoniq Wodent
Wheels (my thanks here to John Masinter for the info).  These wheels are
enclosed with round openings.  The larger wheels are big enough for hedgies,
but you may need to enlarge the openings for many hedgies -- especially if
the reason for the wheel is to trim down a plump hedgehog.  You can contact
them through email at [email] or via:

       	Transoniq
       	1402 SW Upland Drive
       	Portland, OR 97221
       	USA

       	503-227-6848
       	toll-free hotline: 1-800-548-8925. This line is automated, so be
       	ready with your charge number, name and address, and order items.

       	www: http://www.teleport.com/%7Etrnsoniq/wodent.html

Haba Exotics also make an innovative, and very safe wheel, which avoids both
the problems of spokes and non-solid running surface.

       	Haba Exotic Animals and Enclosures
       	17650 1st Ave. South
       	Suite 525
       	Seattle, WA 98148
       	USA

       	phone: (206) 244-0285
       	fax:   (206) 248-7205
       	www:   http://www.habaexotic.com/

------------------------------

Subject: <5.7> Making your own wheel

There are a wealth of ways to make your own wheel(s) for hedgehogs.  This can
be a fun, and easy project, and can save you considerable costs -- especially
if you're on a budget or have a number of hedgies to equip.  This section
contains a number of ideas on how to go about it.  The keys are to make sure
you get something big enough, and with a safe, solid surface to run on -- and
something that won't keep you and half the neighbourhood up all night.  ;-)

Here are some rough pointers on making your own hedgehog wheel from Nathan
Tenny:

    We've begun making wooden wheels out of Popsicle sticks and cross-stitch
    circles (the 12'' size; 10'' is just slightly too small).  The axle is a
    thin dowel, and the spokes are just lengths of plywood (1'' x 0.5'', I
    think).  Depending on where it's being set up, such a wheel can be
    mounted in a bunch of different ways -- hung from the top of the tank
    [or cage], for instance.

Chuck Stoup passed along the following variation on building a wheel that
looks great:

    Over the weekend I made a hedgehog wheel as described in the hedgehog
    FAQ.  I made several improvements that I thought I'd share with everyone.

    On the FAQ the treadmill was made with Popsicle sticks.  I picked up some
    of the plastic grid in the sewing store that is used for yarn rugs and
    the like.  I cut several strips the width of the treadmill and used a
    string to tie them together so its length was just longer than the
    circumference of the embroidery hoops.  I used 2 9'' hoops.  Then I
    wrapped the plastic mesh around the inner hoops and secured it with the
    outer hoop and tightened.  Then I cut some sand paper lengthwise just
    wide enough to fit in the treadmill of the wheel.  I used a hot glue gun
    to hold the paper down.  Brillo seems to really like it.

    I used sand paper for two reasons.  The first was the [editor] of the
    FAQ mentioned about this great adhesive quality of hedgehog dung and how
    they seem to defecate on the run.  I figured sand paper would make an
    excellent surface that I can remove and discard when it gets too dirty.
    The plastic wont mind getting wet either.  The other reason I used sand
    paper was I figured if Brillo used it she would wear down her nails and
    I would not have to trim her.

If you are going to use sandpaper, you should make sure you are using a very
fine grade (probably 400 or higher grit), and you should also watch out for
foot problems.  Some hedgehogs can run their feet raw, or even to the point
of bleeding (yes, they are that insistent on running, that even bleeding feet
won't give them pause to stop).  If this happens, remove the sandpaper.

When I asked Chuck about using this information he also sent along the some
more good ideas:

    As you know, I used that plastic mesh for the running surface, but I
    didn't have spokes that I thought were any good.  At one point I decided
    that the same plastic mesh would make a good set of spokes.  I cut two
    pieces shaped like a cross and tied the tips of the cross to the mesh on
    the wheel.  To mount the axle I bought some eye-lets for clothing and
    swaged them in the center of the mesh as a hub and used a coat hanger as
    an axle.  Runs very smoothly with no noise.

I'm not sure about using the 9'' hoops (ours are 14'', and that seems just
right), but that depends entirely on the size of your hedgehog, and the
amount of space you have available.  The whole idea certainly sounds easier
than the Popsicle stick method.


subject: Hedgehog FAQ [7/7] - Wild Hedgehogs

text:
Archive-name: hedgehog-faq/part7
Posting-Frequency: monthly
Keywords: faq pet hedgehogs

Last-modified: 23 August 2006
Version: 3.89

HEDGEHOG FAQ (part 7 of 7) -- WILD HEDGEHOGS
Compiled and edited by Brian MacNamara ([email])
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed.

This document is copyright 2006 by Brian MacNamara.  See section [0.6]
for authorship information and redistribution rights.  In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.

The basic Hedgehog FAQ has seven parts, all of which should be available
from wherever you obtained this one.  A complete table of contents for
all seven parts is given below.

Please note:  While my knowledge of hedgehogs has grown (far beyond my
wildest expectations when I began the FAQ), my knowledge is still quite
limited, especially in areas of health care.  I did not write, or verify,
all the information in this FAQ.  I have done my best to include only
accurate and useful information, but I cannot guarantee the correctness
of what is contained in this FAQ, regardless of the source, or even that
it will not be harmful to you or your hedgehog in some way.  For advice
from an expert, I recommend you consult the books listed in part 2 [2.1],
or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem, a veterinarian
who is familiar with hedgehogs.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS OF THIS FILE

11. *** Finding Information ***

   <11.1> Intro to wild hedgehogs
   <11.2> What hedgehog books are there?
   <11.3> Is there information available on-line?
   <11.4> Wild Hedgehog Organizations
   <11.5> Miscellaneous Hedgehog stuff and sources

12. *** Care and Helping ***

   <12.1> The hedgehog calendar
   <12.2> Caring for visiting hedgehogs
   <12.3> Feeding and caring for orphan baby hedgehogs
   <12.4> Hedgehog housing
   <12.5> Hedgehogizing your garden
   <12.6> Wild hedgehog health
   <12.7> Dangers to wild hedgehogs
   <12.8> Watching out for hibernating hedgehogs

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

11. *** Finding Information ***

------------------------------

Subject: <11.1> Intro to wild hedgehogs

This FAQ originally started out (and is still largely oriented at) pet
hedgehogs.  So why the emphasis on their wild cousins?  Hedgehogs enjoy a
very unique niche in that they seem to inspire people to like them (or in
many cases, fall head over heels in love with them) and want to help them
out, or at least want to enjoy the company of hedgehogs in and around them.

Our views of hedgehogs in the wild transcend what we normally feel for most
`wild' animals that we encounter.  How many animals do we go to such great
lengths to encourage to come into our gardens and backyards for a visit?  How
many wild animals get the same level of helping hand, with food being put out
specifically for them?  And how many animals have hospitals named just for
them?  (I realize these kind hospitals do not limit themselves to treating
just hedgehogs).

How many of us can resist the cute little face of hedgehog -- something that
just reaches out to our hearts for help.  One only has to look at the number
and variety of organizations that are trying to help out hedgehogs in need to
see how great the interest is.  This makes it all the more amazing that
hedgehogs were hunted and persecuted only a few decades ago, as being pests.

Why hedgehogs inspire so much human compassion is often very hard to pin
down.  The fact that they do, and that this desire to help seems to be so
very widespread, is nothing short of impressive.  Even so, our prickly little
friends face what is still often a losing battle, in the face of human
encroachment, and the dangers it often brings with it.

Fortunately, everyone who lives where wild hedgehogs can be found, can take
part in helping out our little friends.  This can vary from simply making
some of the everyday throwaway items a bit safer before being tossed out, to
adapting a garden area to be attractive to hedgehogs, or even helping out
with one of the hedgehog help/rescue organizations.  No special skills are
needed to help out -- just a love of hedgehogs.

Of course, there are those who simply collect hedgehog memorabilia
(hedgehogabilia) as their way of showing their interest in hedgehogs.  This
is how I came by my love (well, addiction is probably more accurate) for
hedgehogs, and usually expands to well beyond the simple act of collecting.

This part of the FAQ is intended to cover as much as I can add on where to
get involved and how to help out with wild hedgehogs.  The number of people
I've heard from who are trying to help out these little friends in need is
truly amazing and encouraging.  I hope that the tips and suggestions here,
will help others who find themselves in the position of helping a hedgehog.

------------------------------

Subject: <11.2> What hedgehog books are there?

Hedgehog popularity throughout much of Europe has exploded, and continues to
grow.  Even so, the number of good books is still relatively limited, and the
extent of research is also much less than one might expect.  The good news is
that there are excellent books out there, and that more do keep appearing.

One of the best books I've found, for a true scientific view of all types of
hedgehogs is:

       	Hedgehogs
       	by Nigel Reeve
       	ISBN 0-85661-081-X
       	T & A D Poyser Ltd.
       	24-28 Oval Road
       	London NW1 7DX

In published form, this book is probably the best source of true, scientific
information on all types of hedgehogs.  Beyond this you probably need to read
scientific papers (30 pages of references to which are at the back of this
book, which gives you some idea as to Dr. Reeve's efforts at research).
While this book does focus primarily on hedgehogs in the wild, it does
provide some very useful insights into what makes our little friends tick.  I
find myself turning more and more to this book, all the time -- especially
when someone asks me a detailed question.  Unlike many scientific books, this
one shows the author had a real interest and excitement in his chosen topic
of research, rather than limiting himself to dry phrasing, an entertaining
sense of humour and wit shows through.

The book can be hard to come by in North America (the publisher does not
import it to N.A.), but it is available through the Exclusively Hedgehogs
catalog [2.8], and the Spike and Friends Catalog [2.8].  In Europe, your
local bookseller can likely order it for you from the information, above.

For those looking for an excellent all round book on caring for hedgehogs,
and one with an absolute wealth of medical information, including homeopathic
treatments, most of which can apply to both European and African Pigmy
hedgehogs, the following book is available:

       	The Natural Hedgehog
       	by Lenni Sykes with Jane Durrant
       	ISBN 1-85675-042-6
       	Gaia Books Ltd.
	66 Charlotte St.
	London W1P 1LR

Produced by the folks at the Welsh Hedgehog Hospital (WHH) [11.4], this book
is now available in a softcover form, directly from them for a reasonable fee
(see [11.4] for contact information), and provides an excellent source for
anyone wanting to give hedgehogs a helping hand.

Katherine Long has passed along word of another book that is full of
interesting hedgehog information, although it can be somewhat hard to get in
North America.  Here is the bibliographic info:

       	Stocker, Les.  The Complete Hedgehog.  (Illus.)  128 p. 09/1994.
       	Paper.  $19.95.  ISBN 0-7011-3272-8, Chatto & Windus UK).
       	Trafalgar Square.

[The price, above, was valid as of 1997 -- Ed.]

This book concentrates on European hedgehogs, but certainly contains
relevant information on hedgehogs in general.

As a point of interest, Les Stocker is the founder of St. Tiggywinkle's
Hospital [11.4].

Another book, this time suggested by Bill Corner, is:

       	Hedgehogs, by Pat Morris.
       	Published by: Whittet Books.  1983.
       	ISBN: 0-905483-28-6

    [This] is a book by a researcher who has spent his post-doctorate
    research studying Hedgehog behavior.  Not as comprehensive as [the
    above one -- Les Stocker's], but a good read.
    -- Bill Corner

One more for good measure.  This one is a manual, likely intended for use
primarily by veterinarians, and likely refers primarily to European
hedgehogs, and is therefore almost certainly very technical in nature.

    In looking for chinchilla information, I ran across a book that has
    hedgehog health information.  Manual of Exotic Pets, written by the
    British Small Animal Veterinary Association, Kingsley House, Church
    Lane, Shurdington, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire GL51 5TQ.
    -- Chingur

Peter Captijn, has sent along the following (seemingly endless) list of books
on hedgehogs:  [Note: prices were valid as of approx. 1996 -- Ed.]

    all EUROPEAN (Erinaceaous europaeus), never pet-owners books:

    - The hedgehog and friends, more tales from St. Tiggywinkles
    by Les Stocker, Chatto & Windus, London, 1990, ISBN 0 7011
    3655 3, 8.99 UK pounds.

    I name this because it is NOT a hedgehog book. It's a book
    relating the work Les Stocker does in his animal care
    center. Although it has a few pages about hedgehogs, nice
    photos and nice pencil drawings, I think you should leave
    it unless you have money to burn.

    In the literature list of Shire Natural History's book on
    hedgehogs (see below) the following books are mentioned:

    - The hedgehog by M. Burton  Andre Deutsch 1969. Reprinted
    as a Corgi `Survival' paperback. Now out of print but often
    available through local libraries.

    - Hedgehogs by K. Herter, Phoenix House 1969. Now out of
    print but often available through local libraries.

    Various leaflets, books, hedgehog toys and other items are
    available from the British Hedgehog Preservation Society,
    Knowbury, Shropshire. [11.4]

    Further information on hedgehogs and other mammals is
    available from the Mammal Society Conservation Officer,
    Zoology Dept., Woodland Road, Avon BS8 1UG.

    Shire Natural History has published a condensed (24 pages)
    booklet based on P.A. Morris' and Les Stocker's work. It's very
    colorful, with lots of (very nice) photos and surprisingly
    good information, and it is CHEAP. It's probably the best
    gift for people who want to be introduced to hedgehogs:
    - The hedgehog, P.A. Morris, Shire Natural History,
    ISBN 0 85263 958 9, 1.95 UK pounds, reprinted last in 1992.
    (Would be about $2.50 without shipment.)

    - Hedgehogs by Maxwell Knight, a Sunday times book
    publication, Animals of Britain No. 3 edited by L. Harrison
    Matthews, 24 pages, 1962. Almost no information at all,
    advises to give bread and milk (for crying out loud) but has
    one nice sentence: `I do not favor keeping hedgehogs in any
    kind of cage - they are not suited to these conditions and
    seldom thrive.' He advises `semi-captivity' meaning trying
    to lure and keep them in your garden by providing suitable
    housing and conditions.

    I have more books about hedgehogs, but these are original
    GERMAN books, translated to DUTCH, and probably not
    available in English. I will list them because the FAQ is
    read all over the world.

    - Igel in Pension by Claudia Bestajovsky, Franckh'sche
    Verlagshandlung, W. Keller & Co., Stuttgart, 1975
    published in Holland as: Egel te gast, Thieme-Zutphen,
    ISBN 90 03 94990 5, 1975.  This book is about caring for
    late autumn hedgehogs who are too small to survive the winter,
    it's based on her own experience in helping 50+ hedgehogs.

    - Geliebtes Stacheltier by Christl Poduschka, Landbuch-
    Verlag GmbH, Hannover, Germany, 1972.  Published in Holland
    as: Onze eigen egel, Nijgh & Van Ditmar, Den Haag, 1974,
    ISBN 90 236 3334 2.  Tales about their garden-hedgehogs and
    quite some information about feeding and caring of them.

    - Igel als Wintergaste by Helga Fritzsche, Grafe und Unzer
    GmbH, Munchen.  Published in Holland as: Egels, Elsevier, 1981,
    ISBN 90 10 03734 7.  Very good book about the medical care
    hedgehogs need, very thorough on diseases, actually very good in
    everything. Has read Poduschka and improves on her.

Finally, while the following doesn't deal directly with live hedgehogs, it
may well be of interest to us hedgehog addicts (thanks again Katherine for
this):

    There is a book by the British Hedgehog Society Staff called
       	Prickly Poems.  (Illus.)  64p. Juv (gr 3-5) 03/1993.
       	$18.95 (ISBN 0-09-176379-7, Hutchinson UK). Trafalgar Square.

[The price, above, was valid as of 1997 -- Ed.]

------------------------------

Subject: <11.3> Is there information available on-line?

The Usenet newsgroups rec.pets, alt.fan.hedgehog, and alt.pets.hedgehogs all
carry discussions of wild, as well as pet hedgehogs (in spite of some of the
names).

In addition to the newsgroups, the main hedgehog mailing list has a number of
European members and sports frequent discussions of European hedgehogs and
helping them out.

Both an individual message version and a digest version of the list are
available.

You can join the regular (individual message version of the) hedgehog
mailing list, by sending email to the address:
    [email]

with the words ``subscribe hedgehog-mail <your email address>'' (without the
double quotes, and with your own, full, email address in place of the <your
email address>) in the body of the message (not the subject line, though
putting it there too will be harmless).

You can join the digest version of the hedgehog mailing list, by sending
email to the address:
    [email]

with the words ``set digest hedgehog-mail <your email address>'' (without the
double quotes, and with your own, full, email address in place of the <your
email address>) in the body of the message (not the subject line, though
putting it there too will be harmless).

Sending a message to the list is done by sending mail to the following
address after you are subscribed:
    [email]

For more information about the list and commands, you can send a message to:
    [email]
with the word ``help'' without the double quotes, in the body of the message.

In the event that you ever want to unsubscribe from either list, simply send
a message to the ``majordomo'' address (as if you were subscribing) but use
the words ``unsubscribe hedgehog-mail <your email address>'' (exactly like
subscribing to the regular list but using the word ``unsubscribe'') in the
text.  This will unsubscribe you from whichever version of the list you
were subscribed to.

My own European hedgehog webpage can also act as a starting point for finding
more hedgehog information:

   http://HedgehogHollow.COM/eurohhog.html

The Hedgehog Helpline is now online, and has one of the best websites I've
seen for information on all aspects of European hedgehogs.

   http://www.hedgehg.dircon.co.uk/hedgehogs

You can also reach them via email at: [email] -- my
thanks to Kay at the Hedgehog Helpline for letting me know about their web
site, and for other information.

Another contender for the best online resource, for people interested in wild
hedgehogs is the Welsh Hedgehog Hospital (WHH):

   http://www.whh.org/

These are the folks behind the book _The_Natural_Hedgehog_ and have done an
exceptional job of putting great information on all aspects of helping
hedgehogs on their web site.

Another excellent resource is the Cleveland Hedgehog Preservation Society
(CHPS) [11.4] web site at:

   http://homepage.ntlworld.com/donald.martin/CHPS/chps.htm

Thanks to Donald Martin for the update, and my apolgies for misplacing the
message along the way.

This site contains an excellent overview of what to do if you encounter a
hedgehog needing assistance, among other very useful information.

------------------------------

Subject: <11.4> Wild Hedgehog Organizations

There are numerous European hedgehog organizations that strive to help out
hedgehogs, usually thanks only to volunteer help and donations.

One of the first to come into being was the British Hedgehog Preservation
Society (BHPS), run by Major Adrian Cole, information about it was sent to me
courtesy of Bill Corner, Vanessa Purvis, and Seabury Salmon:

   I thought I would let you know that here in the UK there exists a
   society called ``the British Hedgehog Preservation Society''.
   Their address - in case you want some more info! - is:
   -- Bill Corner

       	BHPS
       	Knowbury House
       	Knowbury
       	Ludlow
       	Shropshire

       	SY8 3LQ
       	UK
       	Tel: 44 1584 890801 or 890287.

Tom Weston sent around the following information about another organization
dedicated to rescuing and helping hedgehogs:

    Having looked after hedgehogs for a number of years, Janet Peto founded
    Hedgehog Welfare officially in December 1993. It is a small rescue
    centre, based in Misterton [U.K.], taking in and caring for sick, injured
    and orphaned hedgehogs. No hedgehog is ever turned away.

    The aims of Hedgehog Welfare are:

    To take in sick, injured and orphaned hedgehogs, to care for them and
    return them to the wild.

    To encourage the finders of hedgehogs to care for them wherever possible
    with full assistance from Hedgehog Welfare, including the loan of
    equipment (when available) to do so.

    To promote public awareness of the hedgehog in the wild (and of
    conservation in general) and how everyone can assist.

    To run courses which will improve the general knowledge and standards of
    care-givers and veterinary surgeons.

    If you would like to help or just know more about Hedgehog Welfare, its
    work, or its courses, please write:

       	  Janet Peto,
       	  Hedgehog Welfare,
       	  P.O. Box 1003,
       	  Misterton,
       	  Doncaster DN10 4JT
       	  England

    Janet has requested that when writing to her, could you possibly include
    a stamped return envelope, or at least something to cover the return
    cost.  This will serve to help ensure the funds that Hedgehog Welfare
    has will go to hedgehogs.

Barry Turner (who is the Newsletter Editor/WildAid) contacted me recently with
info on WildAid (formerly the SWRRC):

    I help out with the Staffordshire Wildlife Rescue and Rehabilitation
    Centre [(SWRRC) - now WildAid -- Ed.], an animal Sanctuary at Kingsley
    near Cheadle, Staffordshire, England.

    Jonathon Hodges, the Curator, takes in large numbers of rescued, sick or
    injured hogs and hoglets throughout the year.

WildAid is a U.K. registered charitable organization which looks after sick,
injured, and otherwise endangered wildlife, primarily throughout the British
Isles, as well as now helping other Sanctuaries with advice, practical
assistance and sometimes financial help.

The address for WildAid is:

       	  WildAid
       	  Sprinks - Lane Kingsley - Near Cheadle
       	  Staffordshire
       	  England        ST10 2Bx

       	  Telephone:  01538 754784
       	  Fax:        01538 756702

You can also contact them (Barry Turner) via email at:
[email]

Another group in the U.K. that looks after hedgehogs is the Cleveland
Hedgehog Preservation Society (CHPS):

    The Cleveland Hedgehog Preservation Society is a British group that
    cares for injured hedgehogs [that] then are released back into the wild.
    -- Donald Martin

Donald also passed along word that the CHPS [11.3] have a web site which
contains an excellent overview of what to do if you encounter a hedgehog
needing assistance, at:

    http://www.doned.demon.co.uk/

I have also found information on yet another hedgehog organization in the
U.K., courtesy of a post on the alt.fan.hedgehog [11.3] newsgroup by Liz
Roberts-Morgan:

    The Hedgehog Helpline is a registered charity which relies on
    sympathetic people to enable it to carry on the invaluable work
    that it does to care for hedgehogs.

    They produce an interesting booklet describing how to look out for
    hedgehogs in your garden or in the countryside.

    *Remember that Hedgehogs are wild animals and the object is to help our
    prickly friends to survive, the object is always to return him or her to
    his natural habitat if kept indoors over the Winter. They must never be
    regarded as pets and prevented from having a natural life.*

    If you are interested in a free copy of the booklet "All About
    Hedgehogs," simply send a stamped addressed envelope, large enough to
    contain an A5 sized booklet to:

       	Hedgehog Helpline
       	5 Forelandland Road,
       	Whitchurch
       	CARDIFF
       	CF4 7AR

       	http://www.hedgehg.dircon.co.uk/hedgehogs

    If you would care to make a donation also it would be put to a good
    cause. Cheques made out to Hedgehog Helpline.
    -- Liz Roberts-Morgan

Almost last, and certainly far from least (how can anything hedgehog related
be least?) is ``St. Tiggywinkle's'' Hospital.  The following information on
it was sent along by Willard B. ``Skip'' Nelson, DVM, with the phone number
coming from LeAnne and Adrian:

    I see that you are looking for Mrs Tiggywinkle's hospital in the UK.
    I have corresponded with Mr. Les Stocker, M.B.E. of the Wildlife
    Hospital Trust a.k.a. ``St. Tiggywinkle's'' and I can report that his
    address is

       	Wildlife Hospital Trust
       	Aston Road,
       	Haddenham, Aylesbury,
       	Buckinghamshire  HP17 8AF
       	United Kingdom

       	Telephone: (44) 1844 292292

Similar in nature to ``St. Tiggywinkle's'' is the Welsh Hedgehog Hospital
[11.2], [11.3].

       	The Welsh Hedgehog Hospital
       	Llanddeiniol
       	Ceredigion
       	SY23 5AR
       	United Kingdom

       	email: [email]
       	www:   http://www.whh.org/

       	Telephone (emergencies only): 01974 241381
       	fax: 01974 241237

The WWH are also the people behind the excellent book _The_Natural_Hedgehog_
which includes many accounts of their successes, and sometimes failures in
trying to save and return sick and injured hedgehogs to their homes.  Like
all such organizations, they are always looking for volunteers and for
donations (or adoptions, as they offer them), but they also do provide help
to those trying to help a hedgehog in need.

There is also a newsletter called the ``Hedgehog News'' published by the
Herts Hedgehog Helpline group in the U.K.  Here is some info on them from
John Horton:

    Hedgehog News covers the activities of our wild rescues and their life
    and times, together with advice for people who come across orphans,
    injured hogs, winter wanderers, etc.  We are now into the beginning of
    the release season for those who have over-wintered with us, the first
    being let out into the woods this week [week of March 27th].  Others
    have been moved to our newly built and `almost' hedgehog-proof holding
    pen.  In the next few weeks Herts Hedgehog Helpline will release over
    100 hogs in our area.  Anyone in the south of England and especially in
    Herts, Beds, Essex and Cambs can call us for help.  If we cannot [help]
    then there is someone in the network who can.  I can be reached on
    [email] or on my home number 01462-451618 for
    those in the UK. It is great to see hogs on the net, but remember that
    nets are not friendly to hogs!
    -- John Horton

As pointed out, you can contact John at the Herts Hedgehog Helpline at:

	Email: [email]
	Telephone:  01462-451618

Crossing over to the mainland of Europe, there is Norway's Hedgehog Fan
Club, known as ``Hedgehog Friends.''  I received the following information
from its president Sigrun Seetrevik:

       	  Pinnsvinenes Velforening
       	  c/o Sigrun Saetrevik
       	  Dalaneveien 20
       	  4015  Stavanger
       	  Norway

Cost is 50 kr. (~ $7-$8 CDN, ~ $4-$5 USD) which includes their magazine (most
of the articles are in the Norwegian language, but Sigrun indicated that they
were open to articles in English as well).  You can also try contacting him
by email at: [email]

The club is quite informal in nature, and members often get together
socially to have a good time and talk hedgehog, which belies the origins
of the club:

    The actual reason for the foundation of our organization is the
    fact that thousands of wild hedgehogs are run over by cars in the
    streets. It's really tragic to witness this. Our job should be to
    care for hedgehogs so that car drivers pay more attention. However,
    this is an almost impossible task, and therefore our ``mission'' has
    become quite ridiculous. But we won't give up!
    -- Sigrun Seetrevik

For hedgehog lovers in Sweden, I heard from Siw and Anders, who do take in
injured and sick hedgehogs, and can help with advice.  They don't have a
large organization, so please don't inundate them with questions or
hedgehogs that you can help look after yourself, but they can certainly help
out, especially if you don't know what to do and don't have anywhere to
keep convalescent hedgehogs.  You can contact them at:

       	Siw Bjorkgren
       	Dagermansgatan 6nb
       	754 28 Uppsala
       	Sweden
       	Telefone: +46-(0)18323565

In Belgium, the organization Wild Peace, based in Brussels, can provide
assistance in looking after orphaned animals such as hedgehogs.  My thanks to
Janet Willacy for letting me know about them:

       	Wild Peace
       	80 rue Buffon
       	1070 Brussels
       	Belgium
       	Tel. (32 02) 520 52 38

------------------------------

Subject: <11.5> Miscellaneous Hedgehog stuff and sources

This section covers hedgehog related topics and items that don't fit into the
previous sections.  Sources of supplies for looking after wild hedgehogs, or
other items which are not `information' or `organizations' are listed, here.
To date, this is an area that I have not had the opportunity to add much to,
as yet.

I'll try to fill in the details here over the coming months and years.  For
now, much of what goes here, is still scattered throughout other sections, so
take a look around, and you'll find some sources and resources.

One source that I have recently received information on is CJ WildBird Foods
Ltd., who, in addition to the obvious, also produce wild hedgehog food and
nest boxes.  You can contact them at:

       	CJ WildBird Foods Ltd
       	The Rea
       	Upton Magna
       	Shrewsbury SY4 4UB
       	United Kingdom

       	http://www.birdfood.co.uk/

My thanks to Stefan Hossack of CJ WildBird Foods for passing along the
information.

One caveat I do have to make, however; based on the photos of their hedgehog
food, it appears to contain sunflower seeds and as such it probably is not
suitable for smaller (e.g. African Pigmy) hedgehogs, which are quite prone to
choking on such items, though is probably fine with larger, European
hedgehogs.  You can always just remove the pieces, or crush them if you have
any concerns.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

12. *** Care and Helping ***

------------------------------

Subject: <12.1> The hedgehog calendar

No, this is not a place to get a calendar of hedgehogs!  Most hedgehogs can't
read one, anyway!  It's the hedgehog's view of the year, or rather seasons.
I should probably note that this section is written from the perspective of
people, and well, hedgehogs, living in the northern hemisphere.  For people
in places such as New Zealand, remember to read it upside down, um, er, with
the summer/winter reversed as to what the months show here.  It also refers
primarily to European hedgehogs -- climates and calendars for wild African
and other species will differ considerably.

December - March (approximately): This is the time of hibernation.
Obviously, the exact timings will depend very much on climate, and to some
extent, what food supplies were like just before hibernation.

March - April: Hedgehogs arise from hibernation and start to appear.  Most
will be very hungry, and a helping-hand dish of cat or dog food at this time
will be most welcome to get the new year off to a good start.

April - May: Mating season (for summer hoglets), or as some people call it,
the noisy season.  Great snufflefests outside your windows can occur as
hedgehogs demonstrate their amorous tendencies.

June - July: It's hoglet season.  Depending on when mating took place, the
little ones will appear roughly 35 days (32-40 days) later.  These are the
summer hoglets, and will have the best chances of survival.

July - August: The summer hoglets start leaving home at around 8 weeks of
age.  Again the timing varies, depending on when they were born, how much
food there is and a lot of other factors.

This is also the time of the second mating season.  This season is much less
defined than the earlier one, and depends more on when mothers are free of
their babies, and might be receptive again.  This carries on through
September.

September - October: The autumn hoglets are born, and many hedgehogs start to
stock up on their winter fat.  Obviously, hoglets born at this time have far
less opportunity to grow before the winter comes.

October - November: It's serious pack-on-the-fat-time for hedgehogs.
Prickly-appetites-on-paws will eat as much as they can at this time of year.
The autumn hoglets start to head out on their own in their desperate attempt
to build up enough fat and body weight to survive the coming winter.
Hedgehogs weighing less than 500-600 grams will have relatively little chance
of surviving anything but a mild winter.

December: It's time to find a den and settle in for hibernation.  This is
triggered partly because of cold weather, and also (to a somewhat lesser
extent) because of reduced hours of daylight, but it is also because with the
coming of colder temperatures, most of the food supply disappears.  Fat,
happy hedgehogs will now snuggle in until Spring.

Remember, the times shown in this calendar are very approximate.  They will
all vary considerably with climate, food supply, and many other factors.  In
years with late, or mild winters, hedgehogs can remain active into January,
which gives autumn babies a much better chance.  In years with early winters,
many hedgehogs may be caught unprepared, and may sometimes be seen up and
around in the snow, trying to find a few last tidbits of food, or a better
shelter for the winter.

And, of course, New Zealand hedgehogs have it quite a bit differently, with
summer and winter reversed.

------------------------------

Subject: <12.2> Caring for visiting hedgehogs

Many people throughout the world, especially in Europe, have the pleasure of
having native hedgehogs visit their backyards and gardens.  In many places
an almost overpowering urge exists to try and help these little visitors --
after all, in many cases, they are doing their best to rid your garden of
undesirable pests, besides they are irresistibly cute.

A quick point here -- this section is on naturally wild hedgehogs, and that
releasing pet hedgehogs into an environment, even one they could survive in,
in order to create a wild population, or just to dispose of a pet you no
longer want, is both cruel and dangerous, as well as illegal.  In other
words, simply don't do it.

You should probably be aware that there is an interesting side effect to
having visiting hedgehogs in your garden, as Peter Captijn puts it:

    European hedgehogs are known to wake up people sleeping with
    an open window, when [the hedgehogs] are mating.  I'm NOT joking:
    people usually think there are burglars around the house and call the
    police.

When it comes to providing food for visiting hedgehogs, the age old standard
of a saucer of milk is not a good idea, and can upset a hedgehog's stomach,
although I have no doubt that the hedgehogs dearly love it.  In general, the
same sorts of rules that apply to pet hedgehogs [6.2], also apply for people
wanting to feed wild hedgehogs.  The biggest difference probably being the
quantity -- European hedgehogs are MUCH larger than the African Pigmy
variety, and have larger appetites corresponding to their size (Something can
have a bigger appetite than Quiver?  I'd have to see that to believe it!).
This is especially so towards the late autumn when hedgehogs are preparing
for hibernation, or with nursing mothers.

If you are providing just some extra food for visiting hedgehogs, cat or dog
food makes a much better option than bread and milk.  It will also serve to
attract hedgehogs much more readily.  It also makes a good supplement to the
diet of a hedgehog naturally foraging to put on weight for hibernation.

For longer term care, such as a convalescing hedgehog, straight dog/cat food
is not the ideal food either, unless as Peter Captijn put it ``you find
hedgeballs thriving'':

    You can feed them any kind of slugs. European hedgehogs eat
    slugs, preferably by the kilo. I've heard and seen (in that
    order) them eating snails, but Morris believes they leave
    them [alone, given the choice of other foods].  (I'm not sure,
    but they probably need the calcium from the snail's houses.)
    Fritzsche warns about feeding weakened hedgehogs snails and
    slugs.  The snails can be infected with lungworms (Crenosoma
    striatum), which can kill a diseased hedgehog.
    -- Peter Captijn

Again from Peter is the following on feeding:

    Helga Fritzsche's recipe for hedgehog food:

        500 g meager meatloaf  (I'm not into cooking as you can tell
       	from the used words)
       	1 stroked of tablespoon lime for pets (Calcium stuff for pets)
       	1 tablespoon of linseed-oil
       	1 handful dogdinner (the hard stuff)
        1 handful oats with bearded wheat (spelt) (This comes right
       	out the dictionary.)

    Mix it and make balls from about 35 grams, put them in aluminum-
    kitchen-foil and keep them in the freezer.  She recommends
    giving food once or twice (preferably): in the morning a bit
    and in the evening more.  In the morning she gives 10 to 12
    pieces of dogfood and 6 to 8 mealworms.  (Fat ones only get
    water), in the evening one ball of 35 grams of the above, 15
    pieces of dogfood and 6 to 8 mealworms.  Everything is
    depending on the size of the hedgehog.  Keep in mind that
    European hedgehogs are bigger then African Pigmy.  She uses a
    vitamin-prep, 1 or 2 drips on the food.  All food must be on
    hedgehog temperature (at least room temperature).  By the
    way, she kills the mealworms prior to feeding so they can't
    get away.  [have you ever seen a mealworm get away from a
    hedgehog? -- Ed.]

If you can manage to tolerate handling live food enough to feed it,
most hedgehogs love to hunt a bit as suggested by Anja van der Werf:

    Please don't kill mealworms before feeding them to the animals: they
    (the hedgehogs) have a right to have fun too.

With that comes a gentle reminder that hedgehogs which are in captivity (such
as convalescing from injury or illness), do need some entertainment -- a
barren cage means a boring life for an animal that usually spends its nights
snuffling over a surprising expanse of territory.  Do your friends a favour,
and let them play.

If you are looking after a convalescent hedgehog(s), and the weather is
turning cold, don't forget to keep your little patient warm.  Going into
hibernation when not fully healed, or without adequate winter fat reserves is
likely going to be a one-way trip.  See section [12.8] for more information
on hibernation.

------------------------------

Subject: <12.3> Feeding and caring for orphan baby hedgehogs

With the number of hedgehogs killed on roads, and from other reasons, it's
not surprising that orphaned babies do occur.

If you come across baby hedgehogs wandering about on their own, during the
middle of the day, there is a good chance that they are orphans.  That said,
don't simply collect them and take them home to care for them.  Unless they
are obviously in dire straits, it's best to give them a day or possibly two
to see if mom does return.  If she hasn't within that time, you should
probably consider taking action.  Of course, if they look to be in serious
need of help, then don't wait -- if they've already been on their own for a
while, they might not have a couple of days left in them.

What you feed them depends on their age, and this will be largely a judgement
call.  If they are old enough it might be possible to feed them canned cat or
dog food (or the recipe above [12.2]).  If they are too young, take a look at
the suggestions for nursing replacements outlined below.  Basically, these
are the same formulas as used with baby African hedgehogs and will work well
for baby European hedgehogs also -- only the quantities will likely be quite
a bit greater (the 'hog' part of the name isn't there for no reason...).

Generally, the rule about avoiding or limiting cows' milk for adult hedgehogs
also applies to babies, only even more so.  Hedgehogs are lactose intolerant,
and cows' milk will likely cause diarrhea, resulting in dehydration and
further problems.

Robyn Gorton, who was studying hedgehogs in New Zealand, passed along the
following information on caring for babies.

    I find that caring for the young is simple enough as long as you have a
    good milk to feed them.  I have discovered that sheeps' milk is the
    closest in composition to hhog milk and acts as an excellent substitute
    when mixed with raw egg.  It may for the first few days cause swelling of
    the anus, but as soon as they start teething (3 weeks) you can add mashed
    banana for fibre and their problems clear up.  It's a very high protein
    diet but one must watch for a vitamin B deficiency which can be caused
    by too much raw egg.  I had my two hoglets suckling on a syringe for the
    first week and 1/2 until their teeth erupted (this takes three days for a
    full set to emerge!!) then simply start using a saucer and they will
    naturally feed from it themselves.

I've also heard of using goats' milk, similar to what Robyn suggested above,
though I trust her research as far sheeps' milk being closer to hedgehog
milk.  I do need to caution, however, about the use of raw eggs, as they can
cause problems of their own [6.2] -- this, however, may be one situation
where bending those rules is worthwhile.

What do you do if you don't have a friendly goat or sheep, or can't easily
find sheeps' or goats' milk?  Many pet stores and pet supply stores carry KMR
(Kitten Milk Replacement).  It's usually in powdered form, which makes it
handy for the small quantities you will need.

I've also heard of Esbilac (human baby formula) being used successfully, to
offer yet another option.  Anja van der Werf pointed out to me that when you
are trying to use human formula, make sure it is soya-based rather than based
on cows' milk.

One thing to watch out for in feeding baby hedgehogs, is that after each
feeding you must stimulate them to defecate and urinate, otherwise their
bladder and bowel will swell up and can even burst.  To do this, simply
stroke along their tummy towards the anus, which simulates a mother licking
and grooming her babies.  You can also do this with a warm damp tissue or
cloth.  The idea isn't to squeeze anything out, just to stimulate the baby to
do it's business.

Remember that hand raising baby hedgehogs is very difficult, and if you try
and meet with tragedy, remember that you gave them much more of a chance
than they would have had without you.  Whatever happens, don't give up and
decide that hedgehogs are bad, or that it's not worth helping hoglets -- it's
just hedgehog nature, and next time may well be nothing short of magical.

Another thing you can do for orphaned hedgehogs, is to contact one of the
organizations that provide sanctuaries or assistance (such as St.
Tiggywinkle's [11.4]).  They can often provide information or assistance, and
may even be able to provide a home for the babies.  This also goes for
injured or sick hedgehogs that you might happen across.

------------------------------

Subject: <12.4> Hedgehog housing

Most European countries are very protective about their native hedgehogs,
so this section does not refer to caging or keeping hedgehogs, but more
about providing shelter and protection for those that come to visit, or to
spend their winter's nap in your yard or garden.

Providing housing that is suitable to hedgehogs can both encourage them to
live in your area, and be frequent visitors, and it can also provide a safe
place for them to spend the winter, rather than curling up in a pile of
leaves or compost that can lead them to grief.

Here are some ideas from Peter Captijn on providing dens (see [12.4] also):

    I have two daytime-sleeping-dens under some foliage. These are
    open constructions which give protection against wind and rain.
    And they like it, I may say. Every year there are some hedgehogs
    in the garden, and sometimes, when I'm lucky, a pregnant female
    likes it so much that she decides to have her hoglets in one of
    the dens. I call it daytime-sleeping-dens but the hedgehogs
    regularly hibernate in them.

    The roof isn't attached permanently but can be removed by lifting
    it.  It fits tight by some wooden blocks. Hence I can clean it
    once a year (when it is not in use: no fresh droppings).  The
    den is made of water-resistant multiplex (without formaldehyde!),
    the roof is decked with asphalt-paper.  Untreated wood can be
    painted (use lead-free paint!) to give it a green-brownish look.
    In the left top view: in the right under corner I drill some 1 cm
    holes to let the piss drain away, but I'm not sure it's really
    needed.  Hedgehogs use these dens to sleep in and do not often
    soil them.  If they do, they choose a corner and use that always.
    I fill this den with some fresh (pet store) hay, but the hedgehog
    usually redecorates it with old leaves and such.

Peter also sent along some great drawings, which I will try to ASCIIize
and include down the road.

The British Hedgehog Preservation Society [11.4] actually produces a booklet
on making hedgehog dens, and I believe they at least used to sell hedgehog
houses at one point.

The idea behind creating a den or house is to create a well ventilated,
cave-type structure, that can be packed with leaves and grasses to create a
cozy den.  This can be partially underground, depending on what you have
available to you, such as by burying a wooden box (upside down) with a short
underground access.

For winter, it should be well insulated with plenty of leaf litter and the
like, and protected from strong winds.

The next point that comes up is where to put it.  Sticking your nice new
hedgehog house out in the middle of a well trimmed lawn is not likely to get
much prickly approval.  Dens or houses should generally go along natural
borders, which are where hedgehogs are most likely to travel.  It should also
be in a location that is not too busy -- either with human or furry traffic.

The best advice I can give, is to try and think like a hedgehog.  You're
active in the dark and you don't see terribly well, but you don't want a den
that every badger in town is going to find an easy trail to.

------------------------------

Subject: <12.5> Hedgehogizing your garden

There are a lot of things you can do to make your garden more appealing and
safer for visiting hedgehogs -- all of which will encourage them to visit.
Of course, having a bumper crop of slugs and beetles is probably number one
on the hedgehog's list, but likely somewhere below the bottom of yours!

If you want to attract hedgehogs to your garden (assuming they are native to
your area), one of the best ways (as always with hedgehogs) is bribery.  Put
out some food, preferably something like canned cat or dog food, or some
cooked eggs (scrambled supposedly works well).

Fresh water is always a good lure too, though beware of offering too much in
the way of a swimming pool without a way out (see section [12.7]).

One thing to beware of is that most pesticides are not safe for hedgehogs.
If you use a lot of pesticides on your garden, you should not be trying to
attract hedgehogs, unless the idea is to replace the pesticides with the
hedgehogs, and if so, discontinue the pesticides first.

Probably the biggest worry in this respect (pesticides) is slug bait.  If
there are hedgehogs in your area, you should not be using slug bait as it
will almost certainly find its way into a hedgehog with unpleasant and often
dire consequences for the hedgehog.  There are plenty of safe ways to deal
with slugs -- including hedgehogs.

------------------------------

Subject: <12.6> Wild hedgehog health

For the most part, wild hedgehogs are quite able to look after themselves,
except when they encounter humans in some form or another.  There are some
maladies that do affect wild hedgehogs -- usually as the result of stress or
injury.

One particular problem to note, occurs primarily in autumn babies.  That is
that they do not pack on enough weigh to be able to survive hiberating.
Hedgehogs need to weight at least 500-600 grams in order to have a reasonable
chance of surviving hibernation.  If you have autumn babies in your garden
that are too small to hibernate successfully, you may need to bring them
indoors for a while, and fatten them up.

Here is a reminder from Peter Captijn that as friendly as wild hedgehogs are,
they are still wild animals and certain realities apply:

    When a wild hedgehog has to be kept in house or with other
    hedgehogs, it's a good idea to get rid of the fleas and ticks [9.4]
    before you infect your clean house. Most people use cat spray, but
    ticks tend to live through that. Bathing in vermin killing stuff
    will be the solution. It can be done (preferably once) in a little
    warm water so the hedgehog can't drown. Never use sprays or
    whatever on piglets/hoglets, and never spray something in the
    eyes, you can blind the hedgehog.  Please remind: a healthy wild
    hedgehog has vermin, always!  This is natural.

Also from Peter are some pointers on various other health problems:

    Rabies: from various sources - European hedgehogs don't get
    rabies.  Whether that means they just die very quick, or that
    they are immune, I don't know.

[Editor's note: hedgehogs `can' get rabies, but due to the way they live, it
is exceptionally rare, at least as compared to other, more aggressive or
easily bitten animals]

    About lungworms, Fritzsche writes about German scientific study
    regarding lungworms by hedgehogs.  Lungworms are capsulated
    in the lungs and die.  If the hedgehog isn't healthy, this
    apparently doesn't work [fast enough?], and the hedgehog dies.
    I do have hedgehogs running free in the garden, and I hear and
    see [them] (in that order) eat snails and slugs, every day, and
    quite a lot of them.  I won't hesitate to offer a hedgehog a
    snail, but I can't estimate the involved risk (if any).

In my other readings and researches I've learned that the level of vermin
(fleas, ticks, mites, etc.) on wild hedgehogs often has a lot to do with
their living conditions, or more specifically how stressful they are.
Hedgehogs living well out in the country, with a plentiful supply of food and
water, relatively little or no pollution, or problems from human
encroachment, will have little, or not detectable vermin.  Those which are
under much more stress will have considerably higher levels of hitchhikers.

Injuries can provide an opportunity for various vermin to infest a hedgehog.
If you are helping a visiting friend out, check for ticks and even maggot
infestations where wounds or injuries might have happened.  Maggots might
need to be removed from the wound with a pair of tweezers, and the wound
thoroughly cleaned with an antiseptic solution.

Ticks should be treated with something designed to kill them.  Don't try to
simply remove them, or their mouth parts will be left attached, causing
infection and more serious problems.

I would suggest the book _The_Natural_Hedgehog_ to anyone who is planning to
try and help out hedgehogs in need.  Also, don't try to treat anything more
than minor problems without the help of a qualified veterinarian.

If all else fails, or you aren't sure what to do, get in touch with one of
the organizations listed in section [11.4] -- they will be happy to assist
you in helping a little friend.

------------------------------

Subject: <12.7> Dangers to wild hedgehogs

When it comes to protecting hedgehogs, there is usually little danger to them
in the garden, or any other truly natural habitat, from other animals or
objects, as illustrated here by Peter Captijn:

    I have two cats (females), and the garden is frequently visited
    by many others (males!), but I'm still in doubt whether I should
    protect the cats from the hedgehog, or vise versa.  The hedgehog
    usually barges through, whether there is a cat lying in its way
    or not [gee, that sounds familiar - ed.].  The only risk I probably
    have, is getting hedgehog-pests contaminated cats.  Hedgehogs aren't
    bothered easily, they have repeatedly walked over my mother's feet.

That said, there are dangers lurking in many gardens and yards, and dogs can
cause serious injuries to hedgehogs, especially young ones.  Again, here are
some words of wisdom from Peter Captijn:

    Please note that ANY PESTICIDE you'll use in your garden is bound
    to end up in your HEDGEHOG, which means in an alarming rate: NO
    HEDGEHOG!  Hedgehogs are resistant against animal poisons, not
    man-made pesticides.  Hedgehogs do not destroy gardens, they do
    not dig, they only manure it.  They (try to) keep your garden free
    of pests and bugs.

One of the worst things by way of pesticides is slug bait.  This builds up in
slugs, which are one of the hedgehogs favorite foods, and hence in the
hedgehog.  If possible, avoid the slug bait and let the hedgehogs do the
slug-removal, or if you must use it, make sure you keep hedgehogs out of your
garden.

Another, somewhat odd problem is that hedgehogs seem to compulsively crawl
into or through things (or at least try to, often becoming stuck).  This
includes cans, plastic rings from drink cans, nets, plastic yogurt or ice
cream cups, and even key-rings.  Why they feel a need to go into or through
instead of around is anyone's guess, but anything a hedgehog can get into, he
will, and if it's possible to become stuck, he will.  Keeping your garden
free of such objects will help ensure the safety of the hedgehogs that visit
you.

Also, pools and ponds present a unique problem to visiting hedgehogs.  Many
man-made pools and ponds have smooth sides, which are too slippery or steep
for a hedgehog, who has accidentally fallen in, to climb out.  One of the
easiest safeguards I have seen for this is to simply dangle a thick rope into
the water and tie the other end off to a stake.  This is usually enough for a
hedgehog to climb out with.  Hedgehogs can swim, and will follow around the
outside of the pool or pond looking for some way to get out.  The only time
they tend to drown is in cases where they get too tired searching for a
non-existent way out.  Another method some people use is to create a wooden
or cloth ramp, with one end floating in the water, and the other end safely
attached on dry land.

As a summary of dangers to hedgehogs, here is a list composed by David Mantle
of some of the hazards that face wild hedgehogs in our modern world.  I've
added a few items and annotated a few others for clarity.

    Below are just some of the hazards that wild hedgehogs in England have
    to face, as well as surviving hibernation.

    Badgers                         (one of their few natural predators)
    Barbed-wire
    Cars
    Dogs
    Empty cat food tins
    Fires (especially on Nov. 5th)  (Guy Fawkes Day - fires and fireworks)
    Four-pack ring binders          (plastic holders for drink cans)
    Garden forks
    Gin traps
    Human cruelty, kicking, stabbing etc.
    Metal fencing
    Milk cartons
    Netting
    Paint
    Pesticides
    Plastic cups
    Removed drain covers
    Slug pellets                    (poison used to kill slugs)
    Strimmers                       (weed eaters, string trimmers, etc.)
    String                          (swallowed, or simply tangled)
    Yogurt pots                     (or any other small plastic cup)

    There are just so many things that they can become trapped in.
    -- David Mantle

Hedgehogs truly possess an incredible ingenuity for turning the most mundane
of objects or situations into something with dire consequences for them.  If
there is a way they can get into trouble, they will.  If they can't get into
trouble, they will invent a way.

------------------------------

Subject: <12.8> Watching out for hibernating hedgehogs

European hedgehogs hibernate during the winter months (or cold months,
depending on where you might be located), unlike wild African Pigmy hedgehogs
who tend to do the opposite, aestivating [12.1] during the hot dry periods
[7.3].

The core hibernation months for hedgehogs, in Europe, are typically January
through March, with some hedgehogs who haven't put on enough weight in time
still staying up and around until February (usually desperately trying to add
to their winter fat so they can survive the cold).

Hibernation is a tough time for hedgehogs.  If they haven't put on enough
weight, or if it is a particularly long or cold winter, they just might not
make it.  However, even well fed hedgehogs who think they've found the ideal,
snug, warm place to survive the winter can run into modern problems, as
described by Seabury Salmon:

    About Fall time, they hibernate in piles of leaves and things at the
    bottom of the garden. The British gardener is a tidy beast and likes to
    burn the leaves. Hence, roast hedgehog.

Before you start burning your leaves, etc., give the pile a quick check in
case a friendly neighborhood hedgehog has made a winter den in the middle of
your refuse.

    European [hedgehogs] prepare for hibernation when it gets real
    cold: 7 degrees Celsius and below (about 16 degrees Fahrenheit).
    -- Peter Captijn

[Forgive me Peter, but I wish I lived with your idea of ``real cold'' -- that
sounds like a nice warm spring or autumn day! -- Ed.]

Hedgehogs will often remain curled up in hibernation until well into April.
If you discover one in a pile of leaves in your garden in the spring, you can
give him a good start to the year by putting out a pan of dog or cat food
where he will find it when he wakes up.  You may even gain a friend who will
continue to visit your garden.

I should probably point out that hedgehogs do not need to hibernate, and if
given the opportunity to not do so, they certainly will not hibernate!  It is
primarily because food is not available during the cold weather that they go
into hibernation (witness the fact that many animals don't hibernate in the
same climate).  Because of this, rest assured that you aren't doing any harm
by keeping a hedgehog from its winter's nap.

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